typical shutter speed in studio


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May 5, 2006
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#1
Hi Guys,

May I ask those who have experience in shooting under studio lighting what's the typical shutter speed you shoot at? Pls mention the ISO, shutter and aperture combination. Reason I asked is I'm trying setup a primitive studio in my flat to photograph my kids but my shutter speed at ISO 800, F4 is only around 1/20 to 1/40 which makes it difficult to capture the kids without motion blur.

Thanks.
 

May 5, 2006
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#3
juz wondering, why do you even want to maintain the same setting even with those studio light on? :dunno:.
bro, i don't want to maintain the same setting.. i know nuts about the studio lighting so i'm wondering if it's in a real studio if you can get higher shutter speed because of good lighting.
 

zoossh

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Nov 29, 2005
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#4
the basic rule is still dependent on your handheld steadiness to the focal length and magnitude/speed of subject motion. it is difficult to achieve a short shutter duration if it is dark but if you got good lighting in the studio, then shutter speed should be a variable, not a limitation.

the settings depend on what you want to achieve in terms of exposure, depth of field or any subject motion, then you try to setup the lighting to enable that settings to proceed, not the other way round.

i'm going by first principles. frankly i also know nuts about studio setup....
 

blazer_workz

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May 8, 2006
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#5
iso usually use lowest i.e. 100 or 200
shutter speed usually use 1/125-1/60
aperture depends on ur strobe setting and distance from subject
usually use lightmeter to check aperture to set
but can oso use formula:

GN = distance × f-number

GN on spec. sheet or manual is usually for full power..u have to use some formula to get equivalent GN for 1/2, 1/4, or 1/8 power..
 

rOnGrEn

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Jan 8, 2005
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#6
When you use studio lights, normally you shoot at a fixed shutter speed, and you adjust your aperture. The shutter speed will be typically limited by your camera's x-sync speed (1/125s for some cameras, 1/250s for some cameras, 1/500s for some).. Of course you can use a slower shutter speed than the x-sync speed depending the effect you want to achieve.

You will normally shoot in Manual mode in studio. Say you fix your iso at iso200, and shutter speed at 1/125s, and you set an output for your studio lights (eg. 1/8 of the total light output). You then set an aperture size to get a correct exposure. If you want to increase the aperture size for whatever reasons, you lower the light output. If you want to decrease the aperture size, you can increase the light output. :)
 

May 5, 2006
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#7
Thanks guys :) Looks like I need to put better lighting then.
 

eastwest

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Sep 20, 2006
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#8
I typically shoot at 1/250th ISO 100 f8-f11
 

sk.images

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#9
Hi Guys,

May I ask those who have experience in shooting under studio lighting what's the typical shutter speed you shoot at? Pls mention the ISO, shutter and aperture combination. Reason I asked is I'm trying setup a primitive studio in my flat to photograph my kids but my shutter speed at ISO 800, F4 is only around 1/20 to 1/40 which makes it difficult to capture the kids without motion blur.

Thanks.
Shooting at ISO 800, f/4 and 1/20 tells me that your lights are just not powerful enough to shoot people, particularily kids.
 

May 5, 2006
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#10
I typically shoot at 1/250th ISO 100 f8-f11
Again I know nuts about studio lights but looks like the lighting is very powerful to get those settings. I think even outside on overcast day I will have a hard time getting those values.

Thanks for the input.
 

blazer_workz

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May 8, 2006
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#11
Again I know nuts about studio lights but looks like the lighting is very powerful to get those settings. I think even outside on overcast day I will have a hard time getting those values.

Thanks for the input.
:think:May i noe wat strobes/studio light are u using?

ISO 800, f/4 and 1/20 seems like ur strobes/studio light not fired..
When using stobes/studio light u have to use Manual mode..
 

May 5, 2006
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#12
:think:May i noe wat strobes/studio light are u using?

ISO 800, f/4 and 1/20 seems like ur strobes/studio light not fired..
When using stobes/studio light u have to use Manual mode..
I'm using 8 pieces of those small 50w halogen bulbs + 6 pieces of 10w warm light installed in my flat. But still can't get a decent lighting to have a faster shutter. I'm reading around and looks like I need those flood lights (100w) directed to the subjects. I can't afford to buy those studio lights like photoflex so I'll DIY it.
 

Rashkae

Senior Member
Nov 28, 2005
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#13
I suggest just getting 2-3 "normal" flashes for your camera and firing them in a remote trigger fashion. I know I can easily do this on my A700, firing 3 56AM flashes in one go.
 

V

vince123123

Guest
#14
We normally use the highest flash sync speed on manual mode. The reason why your experiences differ is because when we talk about highest flash sycn, we are using studio flashes.

Your setup is more akin to a studio continuous light settings - hence you may or may not be able to get the highest sync speed that everyone is referring to. For continuous light, you need quite bright before it can work.

I'm using 8 pieces of those small 50w halogen bulbs + 6 pieces of 10w warm light installed in my flat. But still can't get a decent lighting to have a faster shutter. I'm reading around and looks like I need those flood lights (100w) directed to the subjects. I can't afford to buy those studio lights like photoflex so I'll DIY it.
 

blazer_workz

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May 8, 2006
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#15
I'm using 8 pieces of those small 50w halogen bulbs + 6 pieces of 10w warm light installed in my flat. But still can't get a decent lighting to have a faster shutter. I'm reading around and looks like I need those flood lights (100w) directed to the subjects. I can't afford to buy those studio lights like photoflex so I'll DIY it.
confirm not enuff..:bsmilie:

maybe u want to try DIY strobe kits? go sim lim tower have a look..i remember i saw some strobes hobby kits there..provided u noe how to use a soldering iron..:D

another option is to purchase another 1-2 cheapo slave flash..
 

May 5, 2006
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#16
confirm not enuff..:bsmilie:

maybe u want to try DIY strobe kits? go sim lim tower have a look..i remember i saw some strobes hobby kits there..provided u noe how to use a soldering iron..:D

another option is to purchase another 1-2 cheapo slave flash..
100 watts not enuff????

I thinking of following the one in http://www.diyphotography.net/homestudio/blz/soft-panel-frame-designed-for-hotlight

slave flash? but it won't solve the problem of motion blur right?
 

blazer_workz

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May 8, 2006
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#17
100 watts not enuff????

I thinking of following the one in http://www.diyphotography.net/homestudio/blz/soft-panel-frame-designed-for-hotlight

slave flash? but it won't solve the problem of motion blur right?
if ur 100w is from a single source of light..

haha..floodlight! :thumbsup:

ya..u r right..flash is limited by sync speed..probably ~1/250-1/125 which is still not fast enuff for a very active kid..
 

zac08

Senior Member
Feb 21, 2005
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#18
100 watts not enuff????

I thinking of following the one in http://www.diyphotography.net/homestudio/blz/soft-panel-frame-designed-for-hotlight

slave flash? but it won't solve the problem of motion blur right?
Slave flash will give you more lighting power and at a higher shutter speed, so you may get around the motion blur issue. Now, how many flashes, that's another question, ;)
 

hotdrive

New Member
Mar 9, 2006
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#19
When you use studio lights, normally you shoot at a fixed shutter speed, and you adjust your aperture. The shutter speed will be typically limited by your camera's x-sync speed (1/125s for some cameras, 1/250s for some cameras, 1/500s for some).. Of course you can use a slower shutter speed than the x-sync speed depending the effect you want to achieve.

You will normally shoot in Manual mode in studio. Say you fix your iso at iso200, and shutter speed at 1/125s, and you set an output for your studio lights (eg. 1/8 of the total light output). You then set an aperture size to get a correct exposure. If you want to increase the aperture size for whatever reasons, you lower the light output. If you want to decrease the aperture size, you can increase the light output. :)

Interesting topic. I'm also a beginner. Is it that if i need more DOF, I would use a higher aperture value (example, f8 instead of f4)? Am I correct in this?

:)
 

mattlock

Senior Member
Feb 28, 2004
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#20
forget about floodlights
you need about 650w - 1000w with a fresnel to get a decent exposure...this is before you filter the light to get it balanced for daylight

get strobe lights instead (you can try first with a jinbei)
strobe lights are not dependent on the shutter speed because they fire off a lot of light in a fraction of a second (faster than the sync speeds on most cameras)
 

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