Trouble with sharp quality photos


photo #2, you were using Auto mode? the settings used for this photo was ISO 2000, f1.8, 1/8, shot at 50mm. can tell that the place was really super dark. change to a brighter place lar.. ><

the blur can be because of the high ISO, with ISO 2000, there will be some visible noise due to the high ISO, and the High ISO noise reduction (if it is switched on) may cause the photo to be a bit soft.

it can be due to camera/handshake too, with 1/8 on a 50mm focal length, quite easy to get blur photo if you do not have firm support.
 

Potrait1.jpg

( The potrait look like belachan to me so i need help in it)

Here it is brothers, any help will be much appreciated:confused:

By the way, it's spelt "PORTRAIT" with 2 Rs...
I see your watermark also mis-spelt...:)
 

those 2 photos look like you have shot in a challenging lighting...look at your shutter speed before you shoot in those lighting...for your 17-50mm...anything faster than 1/50 should help reduce shake...

anyway, for portrait, can do spot metering instead of matrix to see what's the diff in your shutter speed...
if all fails, your lens has focus prob if it's not in-focus after stopping down to f8 or above....:bsmilie:

photo #2, you were using Auto mode? the settings used for this photo was ISO 2000, f1.8, 1/8, shot at 50mm. can tell that the place was really super dark. change to a brighter place lar.. ><
TS, just fyi, automode doesn't mean the cam can go auto-pilot and produce splendid images everytime, it gets tricked often too...haha...
 

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for the 1st shot

1. to get everything sharp you need to have a greater DOF, which means a smaller aperture (eg. f16/f22)

2. use a tripod, it will eliminate camera shake due to the slow shutter speed when you are trying to get everything sharp

3. if you are still learning then with the above setup, shoot in aperture priority mode then bracket using the exposure compensation.

with a tripod you do not have to use a higher ISO speed since the subject will not move.
 

I am also very confused how TS can get f1.8 from a 17-50mm lens :dunno: (second picture)

The rest have been mentioned by others already and so I repeat :p understanding the basics is important. Looking at the EXIF data, it's very easy for us to see why, but you need to know also, and it's easier for you to read up and play around with your camera.

The first pix was shot at f2.8
The second pix was shot at 1/8s with a non-VC lens (and at 50mm some more)

I see it as two different problems and you may have confused them... read up first and come back if still don't understand ;)
 

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