The issue of ghosting while using filters.

[sjackal]

Today I put on a Hoya HMC filter on my Nikon 50mm f1.8 and took a pic of my mom cooking in the kitchen, behind her are the windows. The kitchen is quite dimly lite.

I immediately saw the greenish blue flare in the shape of my window grills on the picture.

Curious, I tried it with two other lens, a Nikon 18-135 and a Sigma 30mm, both with the same HMC filter on but no problems.

Then I notice the lens of the 50mm 1.8 is actually deeply set in so there is about one inch distance between lens and filter.

Is it something like the longer the distance of your lense to your filter, the higher the chance of ghosting?

Thanx in advance for any help.

 

[sjackal]

I tried out the 50mm f1.8 with HMC Hoya filter combo at night out in the streets and at restaurants. The lights all around are causing a lot of ghosting. But doesn't happen with my Sigma 30mm... anyone knows why?

 

[Dream Merchant]

All things being equal, yes, the greater the distance between two lens surfaces, the greater the possible displacement of flare.

2nd ?: Different lens designs, different coatings etc etc etc

 

[psychobiologist]

the 50mm f1.8 front element is too recessed..... if you want to reduce ghosting you might just consider buying a uber good coated filter for the sake of this.. "reduce" but not eliminate.

however instead of splurging so much on a filter.. you might as well buy a 50mm f1.4 with the $$... or else... just scrape using a filter on the 50mm f1.8 whenever you get irritated with the flares and ghosting

 

[Simon_84]

i remember most users of this lens did not get a filter, perhaps the flaring problem with filter on, is one of the reason to as why.

 

[Del_CtrlnoAlt]

remove the filter...

cos no matter what, filters will still cause ghosting, reflective flare, etc... if remove filter and still have it, suck thumb... or use something to block the stray light. its the angle that introduce the flare.

ghosting normally caused by internal reflection, image reflected off the front element back onto the filter, and captured back into the camera. removing filter removes the problem... mostly caused by low quality filters or the filter is worn out.

 

[Dream Merchant]

Just a thought ...

Last time, old f/1.8 lenses hardly had these kind of problems. I suspect much higher quality back in the 70s and 80s.

Now, depending on which brand or series, some modern AF 50mm f/1.4s, especially wide open or very near to wide open have even worse flare and CA, despite their much higher price.

Sometimes, you can alter the angle which you shoot from slightly to avoid or minimize ghosting and flare. The best is still to take off all filters and use a really deep lens hood - as deep as the focal length will allow. Can also use the really old school method - block off extraneous light using a large piece of board or umbrella - anything dark works.

 

[synapseman]

Lens hood *might* help solve the problem?

I also say remove the filter. It doesn't help the image in any way.

 

[Simon_84]

Just a thought ...

Last time, old f/1.8 lenses hardly had these kind of problems. I suspect much higher quality back in the 70s and 80s.

Now, depending on which brand or series, some modern AF 50mm f/1.4s, especially wide open or very near to wide open have even worse flare and CA, despite their much higher price.

thats why some d300 users prefer the old MIJ 50mm f1.8

 

[Del_CtrlnoAlt]

thats why some d300 users prefer the old MIJ 50mm f1.8

another reason is old lens got aperture ring...

 

[gooseberry]

Just a thought ...

Last time, old f/1.8 lenses hardly had these kind of problems. I suspect much higher quality back in the 70s and 80s.

No... it's more prevalent now because digital sensors are much more reflective than film. A lot more light is reflected back off the sensor and back through the lens. When you then stick a flat piece of glass on the front of your lens (ie. a filter), you will get 'ghost' images that are exact mirror reflections (more so if it is a poor quality filter).

 

[Dream Merchant]

No... it's more prevalent now because digital sensors are much more reflective than film. A lot more light is reflected back off the sensor and back through the lens. When you then stick a flat piece of glass on the front of your lens (ie. a filter), you will get 'ghost' images that are exact mirror reflections (more so if it is a poor quality filter).

That does make sense ... however, when I tested my modern AF 50mm f/1.4, an old 50mm f/1.4 and several old 50mm f/1.8s, the older lenses fared several hundred percent better in flare tests with and without filters (flare was worse with filter, as can be expected).

With the modern lens, even an off-axis sun light intrusion sent flare peaking. On the old lenses, I could shoot with the sun glaring directly onto the lens at an angle.

I still keep 1 old 50mm just in case I die die need that focal length and need to shoot with strong light coming towards or into the camera/lens.

 

[Del_CtrlnoAlt]

That does make sense ... however, when I tested my modern AF 50mm f/1.4, an old 50mm f/1.4 and several old 50mm f/1.8s, the older lenses fared several hundred percent better in flare tests with and without filters (flare was worse with filter, as can be expected).

With the modern lens, even an off-axis sun light intrusion sent flare peaking. On the old lenses, I could shoot with the sun glaring directly onto the lens at an angle.

I still keep 1 old 50mm just in case I die die need that focal length and need to shoot with strong light coming towards or into the camera/lens.

shoot film... best... velvia 50 ftw...

oh ya talk about the sensor reflection... din those lensmaker make a coating to the rear element to prevent that and mark them digital lenses and yet when compared to older lens without that coating, still few hundred percent weaker? thats kinda quite astonishing isn't it?

 

[sjackal]

Thanx for all the great replies. I bought a Nikon HS9 lens hood, even with the hood, the ghosting still occurs. I guess I might remove that filter.

 

[Dream Merchant]

Most designated hoods are a bit retarded in length. Manufacturers do that to be conservative. In other words? Not very effective, but better than nothing.

You need as deep a hood as your lens will allow without vignetting at say f/11 or f/16. more often than not, a hood for a 85mm or 100mm fits a 50mm very nicely, provided it has enough width in front.

The best 'hood' ever is a cheap large piece of white or black cardboard, or neutral coloured umbralla.

Try taking the filter off first, then see if you need a better hood.

 

[sjackal]

Most designated hoods are a bit retarded in length. Manufacturers do that to be conservative. In other words? Not very effective, but better than nothing.

You need as deep a hood as your lens will allow without vignetting at say f/11 or f/16. more often than not, a hood for a 85mm or 100mm fits a 50mm very nicely, provided it has enough width in front.

The best 'hood' ever is a cheap large piece of white or black cardboard, or neutral coloured umbralla.

Try taking the filter off first, then see if you need a better hood.

Thanx for the informative advice, but I am not going to spend $$$ on another hood for the same lens! :bigeyes: No money liao, the HS9 cost me $50 from TCW :sweat::sweatsm:

 

[Del_CtrlnoAlt]

you can actually make your own hood...

http://www.lenshoods.co.uk/

 

[Lenpalien]

I am also having the same problem with my Canon EF 50mm 1.8. Does anyone know whether the EF 50mm 1.4 has the same ghosting problem?