Technique of shooting still fashion with form?

[Exanimated]

Hi all! When I flip through japanese fashion magazines, it has always baffled me on how to achieve form in still fashion shots.
I was wondering if there are any tips and techniques that can be shared from those who are experienced in these shots.

Example of what I mean. (Form lines in green)

 

[Rashkae]

It's just mounted on a fashion mannequin, like so:

http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-BqPDBdVqApQ/TiIiQpoYghI/AAAAAAAAAR0/_wati5Eu50w/s1600/mannequin1.jpg

 

[Exanimated]

Thanks for your reply Rashkae.

I apologize for not making my previous post a little clearer. I forgot to add in, without the use of traditional mannequins or at least, make it seem as if there is no use of a mannequin.

I have studied the photos many times and it seems that this technique is used on almost any type of apparel. Be it used of sheer materials or low cut or even bare backed dresses. You are able to see the inner materials from the perspective when it is not possible to be seen if used on mannequin. Even if it is digitally altered, my guess is that it would be a very very high level post process to even get the perspectives right for the material foldings.

And for magazines with thousands of dresses every month, I dont think its really humanly possible for their designers to keep doing it if it were not already shot as it is.

I'm really baffled by it.

Here is another example of a dress in sheer chiffon material and a very low cut dress with an obvious lack of mannequin.. Anyone have any ideas?

 

[Rashkae]

you may think there's no mannequin, but to me it looks like it is. As for post processing, it's very simple and basic. It is, in no way, "very very very high level". It's a basic set of only 2-3 layers, and you can see the post processing even added a shadow effect (drop shadow effect in photoshop).

Judging by the shoulder shape, there's a very obvious use of a hanger too, which was then simply cloned or layered out.

Once you get the basic steps, this should take about 10 minutes.

 

[Exanimated]

It maybe true in your reply to the dresses for example 2 but how would it relate back to the first example where there is delicate fur and linked collars?

On example 2, it is safe to say that using your method, it would be straight forward. Minor cloning or thin collar fringes on the green dress and none for the 'tiger' dress. They are quite 'flat' compared to the first example.

How would you have done it for the fur coats? Also, if a hanger was used, wouldn't the hanger have covered the details on the back materials? Therefore requiring yet another photo just to pull the details out to be stamped onto the final piece?

 

[Rashkae]

for the fur coat I would use the mannequin stand I linked you to. Also, you can see that hangers were used. So it's a simple overlay of 2 images, with minor layer blending.

Again, 10 minutes...

 

[Rashkae]

actually, even easier, you can use those half-body mannequins and 2 simple pins. That way the shoulders are held in place (see the sharp shoulders on the gray sweater) while giving feminine form.

It's really a lot simpler than you think, no need to make your life so complicated.

 

[ardneh]

What about using a white board and then use a needle to create the right shape. In the colar area use hard carton that can be inserted without seen from the photograph.

Make sense? I am guessing btw..

 

[Rashkae]

What about using a white board and then use a needle to create the right shape. In the colar area use hard carton that can be inserted without seen from the photograph.

Make sense? I am guessing btw..

Exactly, that's another way. There are so many very simple ways to accomplish this.

 

[yqt]

use newspaper or clear plastic sheets/bag to insert into the dress and form your shape as you like it. No post processing needed.

 

[kei1309]

you can trust what Rashkae says. She's a very experienced model.

 

[Rashkae]

you can trust what Rashkae says. She's a very experienced model.

Not as experienced as you. You're a gravure pro.

 

[Exanimated]

Thank you for all inputs!

All suggestions are very logical and helpful. Personally, I have tried various methods including foam boards with pins, stuffings, digital alterations etc.

Different problems persist with all methods. For example, pins and foam boards produce flat apparel and have to be done on either a slanted board to achieve a more natural gravity pulled look for apparel yet still be able to style them. Mannequins are used for form, but lack visible inner fabric detail. Hangers are great but still without obvious form. Stuffings in apparel are hard to form. Especially when you require a gravity flowed look, the stuffings fall out.

A mix of pins on foam boards and stuffings work, albeit the immense amount of time to used to set it up.

It may all boil down to me being a lousy styler but using the same techniques as everyone though. :bsmilie: But my guessed method is that, could they have a special wire frame that does not show at necklines and other visible areas?

 

[Rashkae]

could they have a special wire frame that does not show at necklines and other visible areas?

of course can. Very easy to do yourself too.

 

[Exanimated]

Thanks for all replies!

Have found answers to my questions! It has been confirmed on various online sources both, post-processing methods and physical setup methods are used depending on the apparel and requirements.

Found out that some companies actually sell mannequins with cut-out neck lines just for the sole purpose of these shots! And in addition, wire or wrought iron mannequins with strategically formed structures to make post processing easier after shooting. :bsmilie: