Taking straight photographs
- Thread starter Tantalize
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camera must be perpendicular to the painting
and dead centre
cannot use WA lens, i recommend Nikkor 60mm micro
and dead centre
cannot use WA lens, i recommend Nikkor 60mm micro
Assuming if the painting is hung on a wall, then a tripod and a spirit level are necessary. More care must be given if paiting is left standing on floor and resting on wall; in this case the tilt must be corrected by having the lens pointing perpendicularly (or sensor plane at parallel) at the centre of the painting. Some perspective corrections can also be done on Photoshop. Good luck.
you are not wrong
the sensor must be parallel
but the camera must be Perpendicular
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Perpendicular-coloured.svg
see image from link above
A is the camera
B is the painting or artwork
C-D is the wall
not sure about other cameras but my camera has grid lines which can be switched on or off
check your camera user guide
1. find lens with minimal distortion (barrel or pincushion), if cannot, then make sure you know how to correct, and shoot so that you will correct without cropping away parts of painting.
2. make sure your lens fits the setting (i.e. amount of space) where you have to take the photo of painting.
3. be dead centre of painting, both horizontally and vertically.
4. take photo with camera sensor exactly parallel to painting's verticality
5. take photo with camera sensor exactly parallel to painting's horizontality
6. tada.
alternatively, with some mild errors you can correct in photoshop, but image quality will be affected, and you might need to crop, so shoot for cropping.
Also the easiest.
But most likely, not many have access or know how to use a technical camera.
Using the detailed set-up previously described, there's a very easy way to set up a normal camera to ensure that one's camera is almost perfectly squared on both planes. A grid reference in the viewfinder helps, but is not necessary.
It's so easy, quick and cheap, it's mind-boggling. Not to taunt TS, but let's see if anyone can figure it out without googling.
Also the easiest.
But most likely, not many have access or know how to use a technical camera.
Using the detailed set-up previously described, there's a very easy way to set up a normal camera to ensure that one's camera is almost perfectly squared on both planes. A grid reference in the viewfinder helps, but is not necessary.
It's so easy, quick and cheap, it's mind-boggling. Not to taunt TS, but let's see if anyone can figure it out without googling.
er.... it's called a flat bed scanner
Chey, this simple method I already use it 20years ago, just put a piece a mirror lor.Also the easiest.
But most likely, not many have access or know how to use a technical camera.
Using the detailed set-up previously described, there's a very easy way to set up a normal camera to ensure that one's camera is almost perfectly squared on both planes. A grid reference in the viewfinder helps, but is not necessary.
It's so easy, quick and cheap, it's mind-boggling. Not to taunt TS, but let's see if anyone can figure it out without googling.
it is not a rocket science, anybody have secondary school physics level can understand why.
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:bsmilie: :bsmilie: :bsmilie:
Trust Ortega to come up with the mo-tech way of doing it! I did mention 'normal camera' mah!
Alamak!
I should have put the condition 'Catchlights is not allowed to answer' because I know he definitely knows the answer! :bsmilie: :bsmilie: :bsmilie:
first check that the edges are straight and parallel.
Too many times photographers and art directors got stucked just because the orginal itself is not straight and parallel.
back in the 80's when there is no scanner, we still able to charge $15~$35 per piece for doing simple flat copywork, things are rather easy when we can use a copy stand, just use a carpenter spirit level on the board and a spirit level on 120 camera back or 35mm hotshoe, but works get complicated when the art work too large, need to paste on the wall or place on the floor.
so I get headache of how to get perfect perpendicular, and later I discover I can just simply use a mirror to check perpendicular, and it works wonders. And strangely, I can't find this method mention in all the photography books I came across, when I share this tips to other photographers, and they disbelieve it at first, but proved it is a simple method once they try it out.
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