some shots again... need comments


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Flare

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#6
I think your camera's meter was fooled due to the fact the whole scene's light condition seems similar throughout the frame.... Common problem, just recognise the problem and dial the ev compensation accordingly...


Originally posted by MaGixShOe
why this pic end up like that?? it was a bright and sunny day...


 

#7
Originally posted by MaGixShOe
why this pic end up like that?? it was a bright and sunny day...
Hi,

The shot looks underexposed and there could be many reasons for it. Some of these reasons could possibly be as follow...

- You've accidently set the wrong ISO setting on the film that you're using.

- You've over-compensate on the camera EV setting or that you've set the compensation on a earlier shot and have forgot to set it back accordingly.

- The camera meter is fooled by the ambient lighting and gives a wrong exposure.

There could be many other possible reasons too. As to the comments on the bright sunny day, it is still possible to have underexposed picture on the bright sunny day. Likewise, it is also possible to have an overexposed picture on a dim and overcasted day. Hope that helps..

Rgds,
KS
 

MaGixShOe

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#8
the 1st pic i tried different EV settings liao
still the same blurry look

my cam only has ISO 100 so canot be set wrongly :D

so wat could be the prob?
 

MaGixShOe

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#9
Originally posted by Flare
I think your camera's meter was fooled due to the fact the whole scene's light condition seems similar throughout the frame.... Common problem, just recognise the problem and dial the ev compensation accordingly...


i set the WB to the sunny condition and i tried lowering and upping the EV
but it seems the same on my LCD
so i delete all away except for this

and wat about the sunrise one?
 

#11
Originally posted by MaGixShOe
i set the WB to the sunny condition and i tried lowering and upping the EV
but it seems the same on my LCD
so i delete all away except for this

and wat about the sunrise one?
Hi,

Different results occured with different metering mode and where do you meter upon. Utimately, it's the photographer who's recogonized the particular situation that he/she's in and compensate accordingly.

In the case of the sunise, the difference between the bright sunlit part and the shadow area could be many stops difference. If you have a spot meter (or a long zoom could also do the job), you could have try to meter the bright and dark part separately and see for yourself the drastic difference in lighting. In your case, the camera undoubtedly had taken it's reading on the bright sun and that caused the surrounding unlit part to go completely dark.

Rgds,
KS
 

MaGixShOe

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#13
Originally posted by kssim


Hi,

Different results occured with different metering mode and where do you meter upon. Utimately, it's the photographer who's recogonized the particular situation that he/she's in and compensate accordingly.

In the case of the sunise, the difference between the bright sunlit part and the shadow area could be many stops difference. If you have a spot meter (or a long zoom could also do the job), you could have try to meter the bright and dark part separately and see for yourself the drastic difference in lighting. In your case, the camera undoubtedly had taken it's reading on the bright sun and that caused the surrounding unlit part to go completely dark.

Rgds,
KS
i did zoom to the max 3X
wats the metering about?
my AF is locked on the centre of the image which is the sun

do u mean that i should AF on a darker place then take the shot on the sun?
 

#14
It comes to my mind.... what's your idea when taking the pic? How do you want the pic to look like?

One think I remember for shooting sun... very often consumer digital cameras cannot stop down enough... so even setting the shortest shutter and smallest apperture still ends up with over exposure... So use NDs to help....

and then, it's generally not a very good idea to just point at the sun with a digital camera withough suitable preparations, the sun rays can fry the CCD... I put my ND on and use aperture piority to set to the smallest aperture available, spot meter....
 

mervlam

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Apr 26, 2002
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#16
Originally posted by MaGixShOe
why this pic end up like that?? it was a bright and sunny day...

the camera determines the correct exposure for the shot when it deems the overall scene at 18% gray...

in this scene, due to the bright sky and the waters which reflected light from the sky, the camera thinks that the scene is brighter than 18% gray and thus i get a dark picture.

to correct this, u have to overexpose the scene (ie an exposure compensation) for a more accurate reproduction as seen by your eye.
 

mervlam

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#17
Originally posted by MaGixShOe
sunrise taken in the morning
but duno why so dark leh
i tried to upz the EV liao

what u mean by upz the EV?? exposure compensation??

to correct this scene, if u want the tree to show details, then meter on the tree. then the sun will be grossly overexposed. if u want a silhouette image, then use matrix or evaulative metering.
 

#20
Originally posted by MaGixShOe
duno how to do metering.....
Hi,

When you're taking your pictures, the camera automatically does the metering for you. Depending on the camera, they might have different names/terms for different metering modes. Centre weighted and spot metering are fairly common names across the cameras while Evaluative (for Canon) and 3D Matrix (for Nikon) are names given by their individual manufacturers. While not confusing you further, these different metering modes generally takes reading of the lighting level from different areas in the viewfinder. There are times when different metering mode works best under a given situation but in most general situation, the Evaluative/3D Matrix (or whatever your camera names them) is sufficient (sometimes with some minor adjustment). It's hard to explain everything here and it might be a good idea to pick up one of those beginner books/guides on photographer to learn more in depth on the various operations of the camera. Hope it helps.. :)

Rgds,
KS
 

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