shutter speeds
- Thread starter chjing
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Dependent on light conditions, ISO and focal length you are using....ask like that ah..very difficult..But for those fast action you can try to use 1/200 to 1/100 ISO 800-1600 F4-5.6 for indoor, outdoor then reduce the ISO
Huh? I don't mean to be rude, but I think you are not explaining it very clearly to the TS.
It doesn't matter if the subject is in pitch darkness or bright daylight, as long as its moving at a certain speed, you need a certain shutter speed in order to freeze it. You adjust the other variables like aperture and ISO according to the shutter speed you NEED in order to get the correct exposure. Not the other way around. Of course you can always shoot in Shutter Priority and (if your camera supports it) auto-ISO allowing your camera to do all the work.
A rough guide would be...
Depending on how fast the subject is walking... 1/60 - 1/250
Puppy running? Sports? Look at minimum 1/250. If you are able to afford it, the faster the better. Open up to max aperture. Set your ISO to the highest that you are comfortable with. Which in certain indoor situations may still not be enough. So go for max ISO... image with noise better than no image at all.
When you're talking about action. It is likely going to be a one-off thing. No second chances. So better it right on the first shot.
It doesn't matter if the subject is in pitch darkness or bright daylight, as long as its moving at a certain speed, you need a certain shutter speed in order to freeze it. You adjust the other variables like aperture and ISO according to the shutter speed you NEED in order to get the correct exposure. Not the other way around. Of course you can always shoot in Shutter Priority and (if your camera supports it) auto-ISO allowing your camera to do all the work.
A rough guide would be...
Depending on how fast the subject is walking... 1/60 - 1/250
Puppy running? Sports? Look at minimum 1/250. If you are able to afford it, the faster the better. Open up to max aperture. Set your ISO to the highest that you are comfortable with. Which in certain indoor situations may still not be enough. So go for max ISO... image with noise better than no image at all.
When you're talking about action. It is likely going to be a one-off thing. No second chances. So better it right on the first shot.
Oh, and a tip when shooting sports/action
Depending on situation, you might want to up the ISO instead of opening up your aperture.
i.e.You want to retain some depth-of-field in your action shot, keeping maybe both the subject and the person(?) just behind/infront in focus. example the guard and opposing center-forward when he is making a shot. Keeping a subject(s) in focus becomes tricky when you are using lenses like the 85/1.2 which has a razor thin DOF when wide-open.
Depending on situation, you might want to up the ISO instead of opening up your aperture.
i.e.You want to retain some depth-of-field in your action shot, keeping maybe both the subject and the person(?) just behind/infront in focus. example the guard and opposing center-forward when he is making a shot. Keeping a subject(s) in focus becomes tricky when you are using lenses like the 85/1.2 which has a razor thin DOF when wide-open.
Shutter speeds for stopping action as found in Photographic Composition by Tom Grill & Mark Scanlon published by Amphoto in 1990
Subject speed = 2-3 mph (typical adult walking speed)
Distance 10ft : 1/250 seconds
Distance 25ft : 1/125 seconds
Distance 50ft : 1/60 seconds
Distance 100ft : 1/30 seconds
Distance 200ft : 1/15 seconds
Subject speed = 10-15 mph (typical adult running speed)
Distance 10ft : 1/1000 seconds
Distance 25ft : 1/500 seconds
Distance 50ft : 1/250 seconds
Distance 100ft : 1/125 seconds
Distance 200ft : 1/60 seconds
Subject speed = 30 mph (typical pony galloping speed)
Distance 10ft : 1/2000 seconds
Distance 25ft : 1/1000 seconds
Distance 50ft : 1/500 seconds
Distance 100ft : 1/250 seconds
Distance 200ft : 1/125 seconds
Subject speed = 100-200 mph (typical race car speeds)
Distance 50ft : 1/2000 seconds
Distance 100ft : 1/1000 seconds
Distance 200ft : 1/50 seconds
Conversion units
10mph = 16kmh
10ft = 3m
Based on available lights, shutter speed is balanced against camera's ISO setting and lens aperture setting.
Subject speed = 2-3 mph (typical adult walking speed)
Distance 10ft : 1/250 seconds
Distance 25ft : 1/125 seconds
Distance 50ft : 1/60 seconds
Distance 100ft : 1/30 seconds
Distance 200ft : 1/15 seconds
Subject speed = 10-15 mph (typical adult running speed)
Distance 10ft : 1/1000 seconds
Distance 25ft : 1/500 seconds
Distance 50ft : 1/250 seconds
Distance 100ft : 1/125 seconds
Distance 200ft : 1/60 seconds
Subject speed = 30 mph (typical pony galloping speed)
Distance 10ft : 1/2000 seconds
Distance 25ft : 1/1000 seconds
Distance 50ft : 1/500 seconds
Distance 100ft : 1/250 seconds
Distance 200ft : 1/125 seconds
Subject speed = 100-200 mph (typical race car speeds)
Distance 50ft : 1/2000 seconds
Distance 100ft : 1/1000 seconds
Distance 200ft : 1/50 seconds
Conversion units
10mph = 16kmh
10ft = 3m
Based on available lights, shutter speed is balanced against camera's ISO setting and lens aperture setting.
Hmmm. Mathematics :bsmilie: Using a table like that would mean you also need to factor in the focal length you are using.
Keep experimenting. That is the best way of learning, how do you put it; there is only confirmation, rules only serve to give a rough guideline. If you're shooting an extremely hyperactive, large puppy or something it'll be different from a small, timid short-legged puppy!
Also, do not forget panning for action shots, if you practise often and get good at it, a lot more shots can be done in a lot more ways. =)
wow..sorry if you feel it was rude..I was in the rush...sorry to TS also...if he gets offended..
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