Share your workflow

[digitalbuff]

Hi All

I just thought the following might be useful to others after some trial and error.

Sharing my workflow:
1) I used to only shoot JPG but lately only RAW (just RAW without JPG).
2) Use Bibble Pro to open to adjust EV, levels etc.
3) From Bibble Pro, export as high quality JPG to a EXPORTED FOLDER
4) Use Picassa 2 to view EXPORTED FOLDER
5) Use Picassa 2 to crop, add effects then re-export to DESTINATION FOLDER according to the purpose (e.g. for posting or printing)

Note:
a) Picassa is free wherea Bibble Pro is not. I find Bibble very friendly and fast. Have not compared to Oly Studio though.
b) With RAW, you do no really need to do auto bracketing. Even WB can be adjusted.

 

[chii]

hihi,

my work flow.

-oly studio--> from Raw to 16bit tiff
-CS2 --> crop & save as tiff
-acdsee--> convert to jpeg

;p

 

[bariq]

hihi,

my work flow.

-oly studio--> from Raw to 16bit tiff
-CS2 --> crop & save as tiff
-acdsee--> convert to jpeg

;p

raw -> oly studio -> high function mode -> save as jpg

 

[chii]

raw -> oly studio -> high function mode -> save as jpg

I like tiff cos it gives better colors when tweakin in PS;p

 

[bariq]

I like tiff cos it gives better colors when tweakin in PS;p

oops i shouldnt have quoted your msg... i was telling my work flow.... dont know these days so many mistakes... stress stress stress

 

[kktan]

Hi fellow E-System users,

My workflow;
- Shoot mainly in RAW, ORF format
- Olympus Studio ==> RAW to TIFF [16bit/ch]
- CS ==> Crop, resize image & save for the web (will keep small jpeg files for viewing in computer only)
- Save ORF/JPEG/TIFF to CD, hopefully to DVD in near future. (CD's 700MB always no enough) :sticktong

Always lazy to do the last step, so must pray X2 that computer no CRASH. :sweat:


For colour lab printing;
- CS ==> Open TIFF [16bit/ch] format file
- Unsharp Mask - if require
- Crop - if require
- Resize image to 1600 x 1200 (print to S4R size print)
- Save as TIFF (with colour lab profile. e.g. KT)
- Transfer TIFF files to CD and send for printing

 

[ch5800]

Hi kktan,

You must only unsharp after you resize unwise the sharpening is lost.

What do you mean by save Tiff with Color Lab Profile? How did you get the Color Lab Profile
for KT? Is this always provided by all the developing lab if you ask for it? (I am assuming it
is a kind of color-profiling file that can be used by PS/CS)

Hi fellow E-System users,

My workflow;
- Shoot mainly in RAW, ORF format
- Olympus Studio ==> RAW to TIFF [16bit/ch]
- CS ==> Crop, resize image & save for the web (will keep small jpeg files for viewing in computer only)
- Save ORF/JPEG/TIFF to CD, hopefully to DVD in near future. (CD's 700MB always no enough) :sticktong

Always lazy to do the last step, so must pray X2 that computer no CRASH. :sweat:


For colour lab printing;
- CS ==> Open TIFF [16bit/ch] format file
- Unsharp Mask - if require
- Crop - if require
- Resize image to 1600 x 1200 (print to S4R size print)
- Save as TIFF (with colour lab profile. e.g. KT)
- Transfer TIFF files to CD and send for printing

 

[kktan]

Hi kktan,

You must only unsharp after you resize unwise the sharpening is lost.

What do you mean by save Tiff with Color Lab Profile? How did you get the Color Lab Profile
for KT? Is this always provided by all the developing lab if you ask for it? (I am assuming it
is a kind of color-profiling file that can be used by PS/CS)

Hi ch5800,

I find that if i Unsharp Mask after i resize the image, the end result is a bit too artificial looking. Also, I don't apply Unsharp Mask to every image unless it is necessary.


You can download Kim Tian or Miao Laan digital photo lab profile at the following website;

http://www.drycreekphoto.com/Frontier/Profiles/Singapore_frontier_profiles.htm#SG

 

[NMSS_2]

my work process is very simple for jpeg:

for web:

in PS --> batch : jpeg (adobe98) --> jpeg (sRGB)
crop if necessary or make it balanced then resize 1024x768 in office picture manager.


for printing :

in PS --> batch : jpeg (adobe98) --> jpeg (ICC profile)
adjust contrast and/or brightness accordingly in office picture manager(essential step as changing to printer profile will dull the contrast), crop if necessary or make it balanced. if full size (about 5++ to 7++ mb), it can blow up to 10"x15" without detail lost (about 200++ dpi) and still retain sharpness as in camera sharpening.

 

[tao]

How much better is aRGB compared with sRGB? So I should start shooting in aRGB for better colours?

 

[ykkok]

For me very simple:

1. Olympus Software : RAW, adj WB/Exposure, direct export to external apps (Photoshop)
2. Photoshop : Crop, Resize and/or USM, save to JPEG.

And that's enough consume lots of my time.

For common shooting:

1. Shoot JPEG with in camera 5MP.
2. Enjoy the punchy photos!

 

[NMSS_2]

How much better is aRGB compared with sRGB? So I should start shooting in aRGB for better colours?

looks richer in primary red, blue & green. however, you will need PS to do correct embedding of the sRGB work space without screwing up the color.

i know office picture manager & picasa 2 did screwed my color when i tried to save my pics for web.

 

[nightpiper]

my work flow:

1) shoot in RAW
2) dump to computer
3) view thumbnails in Oly Viewer s/w
4) good ones i convert to jpg in viewer for printing thru Fotohub photolab, if not go to step 5
5) accumulate enuf RAWs & burn into DVD.


got free time, take out old pics to see. short & simple.

 

[chancy]

Hi There,

I've been shooting RAW & breathing in Oly Studio (high function) most of the time. I appreciate that Oly Studio provides most of the essential correction, sharpening, resizing tools under one roof. Its batch processing facility is a time saver but I am hoping for more image editing functions to be batch-friendly. Should the need to output to monochrome, then it's off to PS.

I know its slow working in RAW, but I don't squeeze of images unnecessarily & changes are mostly minute.

However, if its a rush job for the web, then I'll shoot to JPG & straight to iPhoto or Picassa to build a hassle free net album.

Cheers,

 

[hammer_400]

quickie comparison....

starting from top left in clockwise manner
1) Studio High Function (NO NR)
2) Studio High Speed
3) SHQ
4) Studio High Function (Studio Color and Luminace NR @ 10)

Shot it at iso 1600 1/15 f3.5... to try and get it just about as noisy as u would ever actually get in real usage...

can see y alot prefer RAW w studio high function... the high speed noise is rather blotchy whereas in high function u can get more details and a nicer noise pattern.

 

[yzr500abe]

Sorry to be OOT here, by reading thru the thread...it seems most of the photographers prefer to send for printing in tiff.

I have soem questions in mind:

What's your prefered file format for prints? What is recommended and why?

Pls help

Thanks

a newbie photographer

 

[Hitman]

quickie comparison....

starting from top left in clockwise manner
1) Studio High Function (NO NR)
2) Studio High Speed
3) SHQ
4) Studio High Function (Studio Color and Luminace NR @ 10)

Shot it at iso 1600 1/15 f3.5... to try and get it just about as noisy as u would ever actually get in real usage...

can see y alot prefer RAW w studio high function... the high speed noise is rather blotchy whereas in high function u can get more details and a nicer noise pattern.

Yup, I did a similar test myself. Shooting at ISO1600 using RAW and then in Olympus Studio, up the 'Noise Cancellation' and 'False Colour Suppression' to the max will give you a 'grainy' pic instead of a 'noisy' pic.

Neatimage gives a smoother pic, but some details are lost in the process.

In my opinion, pics at ISO1600 with the E-300 isn't as bad as what other reviews say, and I guess Olympus has left the post-processing to the photographer instead of the camera.

 

[philshots]

For me very simple:

1. Olympus Software : RAW, adj WB/Exposure, direct export to external apps (Photoshop)
2. Photoshop : Crop, Resize and/or USM, save to JPEG.

And that's enough consume lots of my time.

For common shooting:

1. Shoot JPEG with in camera 5MP.
2. Enjoy the punchy photos!

Hi ykkok,

Assuming yours is a 8mp cam, one shot is one shot to the camera. The lifespan of the shutter will be reduced by one shot regardless of the resolution you select in the camera - am I right? Isn't it better to shoot in 8 in stead of 5mp?

 

[hammer_400]

Hi ykkok,

Isn't it better to shoot in 8 in stead of 5mp?

5mpix = smaller file sizes = faster processing time and more shots per memory card

 

[ykkok]

Hi ykkok,

Assuming yours is a 8mp cam, one shot is one shot to the camera. The lifespan of the shutter will be reduced by one shot regardless of the resolution you select in the camera - am I right? Isn't it better to shoot in 8 in stead of 5mp?

Yes, you are right, but how many of us here 'can' really use-up the life-span of the shutter, before selling it off? Even then, my E-300 is a pretty good camera but at a very low price - now, only about S$1000 for body only.

Shooting in 5MP is enought for most of my family shots, 'auto-sharpen' saving me lots of post-processing time. I really don't have to do any more curves or saturion adjustment, as the E-300 gives very punchy colours out of the cam.

In 5MP -> zero post processing, I like it coz' it saves me lots of time.

Assumming my E-300 is good enough for 1/2 of its predicted life span at 25,000 shots, so, S$1000 / 25,000 = $0.04 (about 5 cents) per click. After 9 months of using E-300, I have barely reach 5000 shots.

Not forgetting the memory card also has life span. So reading and writing less, will prolong my memory card (CF) as well.

However, for serious photography events, I shoot in RAW.

Anyway, that's just my personal view.