Self-Timer mode question


Status
Not open for further replies.

golfkaki

New Member
Mar 10, 2004
27
0
0
Silicon Valley
#1
Question:

I want to include myself in the picture of our school reunion, of about 300 people.

It will be at about 6PM, in Houston, TX, next week (plenty of light).

What will be the optimum set-up?
(D70 + SB-800 + 12-24 1:4G ED DX, with no ML-L3 :( )

Many thanks,
Charles
 

May 5, 2004
146
0
0
#2
plenty of light? go low speed, if not u will not see ppl faces due to noise. that is a large group, make sure there is a space made for u to stand (ie run to haha) after u set the self timer. make sure sufficient Depth of Field as well.

make sure flash (if using one) as required coverage in terms of width (ie mount wide angle diffuser if needed)
 

ziploc

New Member
Jan 17, 2002
4,576
0
0
Snoopyland
#3
Hi golfkaki,

Answer:

Set camera to timer mode, half press the shutter release to focus, press fully, then run to the row before the camera fires. No? :wink:



Ok ok, a more detail one. A few things to watch out:

1. Preparation - you will need decide how many rows of people and how many people per row that you want to arrange, and set up the benches well before the shoot. If you set up more rows, the back rows will get taller. Similarly if you set up less rows but fitting more people into one row, you'll probably need to set up you camera further away. Make sure the rows are relatively straight to reduce the chances of having people falling out of the DOF/flash range. You'll definitely need a tripod too.

2. In the list you mentioned, you are using an ultra wide angle lens (18-36mm equivalent). I'm not sure how is the linear distortion of this lens on the D70 (I own neither), but it would be good if you can watch out so that the people at the side/corner are not distorted.

3. If you are using the flash, make sure the distance from the flash to the last row of people is within the flash's range. It is probably a better idea to shoot without the flash or use it only as fill if the light is good.

4. Use a smaller aperture size to have sufficient DOF to cover all the rows. I would guess probably f/8 or above, and f/11-f/16 if there are many rows of people. Focus on the front row of people. Also make sure your shutter speed is fast enough to not cause motion blur when people are moving slightly (probably 1/60s or above). If needed, you can use higher ISO. I'm pretty sure the noise problem at ISO400 or below is very acceptable on your D70, even if you intend to blow up your prints. Or you can shoot raw and do the ISO adjustment later.

5. Take more then one shot. With so many people, there will definitely be some who are not in ideal condition (blinking, etc) when the shutter is released. You might want to refocus each shot just in case some shots are not as sharp.

Ok... that's about all I could think of. Hope I've answered your question. :)
 

golfkaki

New Member
Mar 10, 2004
27
0
0
Silicon Valley
#4
Thanks guys. You're being very helpfull.

So, I should set the camera to M mode and NEF, right?

Last question: at what speed should I run to my location? :bsmilie:
(58 years old legs; but gollfer's legs though!).
 

finkster

Senior Member
Feb 12, 2003
665
0
16
SG
Visit site
#6
Photographing a crowd of 300 people may be a bit tricky to get everyone's face large and visible enough in the photo. Going extra wide will present distortion issues which may be inacceptable for formal photos. (For candids, it might be a nice effect though)

Ever considered shooting from a higher vantage point down at them? More people will be in the depth of field, and more even illumination throughout if flash is used to fill-in. This would be more suited as a semi-formal/candid photo. The emphasis would also be on the faces of the people and not the bodies.(see point below)

Another thing, avoid placing larger people at the extreme sides. Wide angles will make them look even larger. Position them slightly off-centre, but perhaps not in the middle too as you don't want them to be the focus of the photo.

Be careful of guys with shiny bald pates. Flash will reflect off it. Place them towards the back rows to reduce this, unless u want light beacons going off!
 

golfkaki

New Member
Mar 10, 2004
27
0
0
Silicon Valley
#7
Yes Finkers!

I have read that article about a higher elevation; but do not remember where. :(
 

ziploc

New Member
Jan 17, 2002
4,576
0
0
Snoopyland
#9
golfkaki said:
So, I should set the camera to M mode and NEF, right?
Aperture priority mode unless you want to use manual. Not sure what is "NEF".
 

NiVleK

New Member
May 15, 2003
824
0
0
Jurong West
daddy.nivlek.per.sg
#11
Just curious, it is technically possible to photograph 300 ppl using a 35mm system?

I tot the faces will be soooooooooooooooooo small that you can even distinguish who's who. Besides, the details will have been lost even if you blow it up.
 

golfkaki

New Member
Mar 10, 2004
27
0
0
Silicon Valley
#12
1. NEF.
I should have used the word RAW, it would have been less confusing.
Anyway, NEF= RAW.
NEF= Nikon Electronic Image Format.
(discussed in the guide book, pages 41 to 45).

2. I do agree with you that it will be hard to see that many a people in a single picture.
At the last count, we will be 195.
My guess is that it will be plus/minus 10%, because we will be arriving from all over the world.

I am hoping that there will be some kind of a balcony overlooking our meeting place , so that I could ask my wife to go there and take a picture of us from above. :think:
(I have read an article about it but couldn't find it. Might be Nikonians or S2 forums?).

Cheers,
Charles
 

2100

Senior Member
Mar 3, 2004
3,591
0
0
48
#13
NiVleK said:
Just curious, it is technically possible to photograph 300 ppl using a 35mm system?

I tot the faces will be soooooooooooooooooo small that you can even distinguish who's who. Besides, the details will have been lost even if you blow it up.

If you have enough rows and ISO is base ISO, and your lens is good enough (eg prime), even 6mp dSLR quality is good enough. 200+ is definitely achievable in 6 rows and mind you the shot wasn't in good ISO setting as it was in an auditorium.

How big do you want to print and distribute? 18R? :) S8R is good enough.
 

golfkaki

New Member
Mar 10, 2004
27
0
0
Silicon Valley
#15
1. Many thanks for the leads.
Haven't had the time to take a closer look, but seems that it was what I meant.

2. Believe it or not, we are about 300 worldwide, that started our architectural apprentiship in a tiny school in Saigon (now Ho chi minh city); but we do have two websites! (one in Canada, and one here in the US). :confused:

The pics I will take will be mostly for the purpose of posting them in said sites.
I do agree that it will be very difficult to recognize myself in them, especially where light is uneven.

But what counts most is being there.
We are mostly in our late 50s, and 60s..with some reaching the 70s.
Time is running out for us! :(

Cheers,
charles
 

2100

Senior Member
Mar 3, 2004
3,591
0
0
48
#16
NiVleK said:
My concern is not the number of MP. It is the physical size of the frame itself.
18R can be printed at 166dpi, with a good printer like Frontier and Supreme CA it will yield good results. I guess if it's not for clients you still can roll it up (if your heart doesn't ache trying to roll up a $20 print :D). If for clients, then frame it up first to protect and courier over, bo bian one. :) S8R still can see and ID the faces if it's 7 rows, but of course don't expect to see clear individual eyes or what.
 

2100

Senior Member
Mar 3, 2004
3,591
0
0
48
#17
golfkaki said:
1

The pics I will take will be mostly for the purpose of posting them in said sites.
I do agree that it will be very difficult to recognize myself in them, especially where light is uneven.
If it's for posting on sites, then shouldn't be a problem lar.
But lose the 12-24, get something like a prime or a good zoom lens at the sweet apertures (eg f5.6 - 8 for eg only) and use low ISO (200 should be possible since you said ok light...6pm even on overcast skys is ok unless it's thick cumulonimbus clouds). Ask the people to freeze and not move, if it takes to to use 1/15...which is actually possible. Presume that you have a decent tripod coz you said about using the remote. You may want to try 1 with flash and the other without (check natural lighting first and optimise if possible, of course). Shooting from further away with say a 35mm+ lens is actually better, so location is everything. If you can take with a 50mm lens, do it. You will have less problems with inaccurate focusing and distortion etc... You can set the timer to quite a long while, think 20s is max?

Oh, also AF first and check that it's really in focus (eg green dot...hope you do not have AF back/front focus issues), then switch into MF. Do some test shots first for exposure and WB, and i guess it'd be useful if you use WB bracketing with a difference of +/- 2 in 3 pics. (it will take 1 frame but give you 3 pics).....considering it's 6pm.
 

finkster

Senior Member
Feb 12, 2003
665
0
16
SG
Visit site
#18
Since it's for web viewing, the size of the photo would be really small for each individual's face to be easily seen and recognized. If this is not an important issue, and you just want a mass of people to represent your classmates, great. It simplifies matters. But if each and every person will need to be identifiable and have names stated at the bottom of the photo, then it'll be tougher.

Another thing is crowd control. Getting so many to stand exactly where you want and getting everyone to look at the camera at the same time is tricky. Using a PA system or loudhailer would come in handy to organize everyone. I'm sure you don't want to shout yourself hoarse after the shoot and can't down the booze no more....

....or would the booze help to sooth your raspy throat? :bsmilie:
 

Status
Not open for further replies.
Top Bottom