scanning film photo vs photographing it with DSLR
- Thread starter tahart
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Are you talking about prints or negs/slides?
If prints, the cheap Epson v370 is capable of very good results without much effort.
Rephotographing (which I normally only do for photos too large for my scanner, or if frame removal is difficult/dangerous) is far more tedious.
With negs/slides, the cost of a scanner to get good results is considerably higher.
If prints, the cheap Epson v370 is capable of very good results without much effort.
Rephotographing (which I normally only do for photos too large for my scanner, or if frame removal is difficult/dangerous) is far more tedious.
With negs/slides, the cost of a scanner to get good results is considerably higher.
Agree with what Catchlight said, need a decent micro lens. I've tried before, Epson V300 vs my Nikon D3 and Sigma 150 vs Drum Scanner. Epson is soft, and drum scanner is sharpest with the DSLR method being the best compromise. But ultimately it's up to you
This is my setup, using my V300 to hold the film for the scanning process, used lego for the rig from my childhood
This is my setup, using my V300 to hold the film for the scanning process, used lego for the rig from my childhood
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Agree with what Catchlight said, need a decent micro lens. I've tried before, Epson V300 vs my Nikon D3 and Sigma 150 vs Drum Scanner. Epson is soft, and drum scanner is sharpest with the DSLR method being the best compromise. But ultimately it's up to you
This is my setup, using my V300 to hold the film for the scanning process, used lego for the rig from my childhood
Okay whoever says Singaporeans are not creative and clever need to look at this snap! :thumbsup:
Can this be used for medium format film?
Agree with what Catchlight said, need a decent micro lens. I've tried before, Epson V300 vs my Nikon D3 and Sigma 150 vs Drum Scanner. Epson is soft, and drum scanner is sharpest with the DSLR method being the best compromise. But ultimately it's up to you
This is my setup, using my V300 to hold the film for the scanning process, used lego for the rig from my childhood
Agree with what Catchlight said, need a decent micro lens. I've tried before, Epson V300 vs my Nikon D3 and Sigma 150 vs Drum Scanner. Epson is soft, and drum scanner is sharpest with the DSLR method being the best compromise. But ultimately it's up to you
This is my setup, using my V300 to hold the film for the scanning process, used lego for the rig from my childhood
Awesome! Thanks for the idea, I've got lots of old slides to convert but haven't thought of how to do it, and now it's time to raid my kids' lego box!
I've tried, it requires some rearrangement since this is made for 35mm, but it can be converted to be used for medium format. I've scanned it before with my E-M1, mainly because my D700 is 35mm equivalent and 645 is 4:3 aspect ratio, the same as my E-M1. I'm shooting a medium format film now, 4 frames to go, will post when I develop and scan my MF film.
No problems, I got the idea from watching people use lego do automated rigs but I lack such engineering skills, so I do it the "analog" way hahaha! I pity your kids, dad's gonna steal their legos hahaha
http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=130731
Sharing a link on scanning with scanner and getting more sharpness using superresolution
Sharing a link on scanning with scanner and getting more sharpness using superresolution
Ahh.... Photoacute, haven't heard of that in a while, downside is need to pay $149 USD for the pro version, I prefer the lego and DSLR method because it's somewhat free, since lego was from my childhood and DSLR I already had, and the film holder I had from my scanner which I don't use to scan films now
Some photos of your medium format set-up would be highly appreciated! As well as scans from the set-up.
Will post the medium format setup after I've cleared some work, think there are some films I want to rescan with my DSLR because they were initially scanned with flatbed. But I have to use a tripod to scan because the height I've made is for 35mm film and for a DSLR. I use my E-M1 for scanning MF film
Though looking at my old scans of MF. A flatbed is quite reasonable with MF films, but soft with 35mm ones
Though looking at my old scans of MF. A flatbed is quite reasonable with MF films, but soft with 35mm ones
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Alright guys, as requested, here is the setup for MF film. It looks like crap because I used to only shoot with 35mm, but having recently acquired a MF camera, I now have to dismantle the rig everytime I want to scan MF film (which isn't often), so I prefer leaving the rig for 35m
Because of the size of the film, it's not necessary to align it as "accurately" as I do with 35mm film (to avoid frustration). I used my E-M1 with the 12-40 (it has good closeup capability) and mount it on a tripod
35mm BnW film
35mm color negative (I just scanned this, didn't do any processing other than color correction)
645 slide
645 color negative
A couple of things to note, I'm not sure if the lego causes a color cast on the image, in the slide film, I don't see any color cast, but color correcting and inverting the color negatives, there is color cast though. The 1st model's negative is quite old, and the 2nd model's photo supposedly wasn't developed properly by the shop. I'm shooting a roll of 120 color negative now, I will update when I shoot finish (4 frames more) and develop it
*update
I realize that my lens has haze in it and the shot has a hair light which could give rise to the issue of different colors
Because of the size of the film, it's not necessary to align it as "accurately" as I do with 35mm film (to avoid frustration). I used my E-M1 with the 12-40 (it has good closeup capability) and mount it on a tripod
35mm BnW film
35mm color negative (I just scanned this, didn't do any processing other than color correction)
645 slide
645 color negative
A couple of things to note, I'm not sure if the lego causes a color cast on the image, in the slide film, I don't see any color cast, but color correcting and inverting the color negatives, there is color cast though. The 1st model's negative is quite old, and the 2nd model's photo supposedly wasn't developed properly by the shop. I'm shooting a roll of 120 color negative now, I will update when I shoot finish (4 frames more) and develop it
*update
I realize that my lens has haze in it and the shot has a hair light which could give rise to the issue of different colors
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