Just bought a SB600 at 350 from TCW... was wondering how come is cheaper then AP quote of 370... I just realised after i paid the cash its a parallel import set from Hong Kong.. Anybody knows how reliable is TCW's shop warranty... still feel quite sore abt it as they didn't tell me its parallel before i pay the money. :dunno: Any comments?
SB600 in TCW
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it's what i think they call a "gray set". means got no local warranty. however, i think you have 1 year of local warranty from TCW itself.
i've not purchased anything from them, but i heard from friends and CSers in this forum, hat they are ok.
i've not purchased anything from them, but i heard from friends and CSers in this forum, hat they are ok.
THanks for your assurance man... cos this is the first time I am buying from TCW as I need SB600 urgent for today's event else I would have waited for AP to re-stock cos they never sell gray stock to me as I know the people for quite some time.
What's Nikon Singapore's policy on such grey items? eg. buyer gets grey lens from AP or TCW, after one year needs to service it. Can go straight to Nikon SG?
2100 said:After one year, everything is the same. Your wallet bleeds at Nikon SG.
Are you a user of the sb600? or have you used one before?
JAG said:
I have a grey set SB600 and a local warrantied SB800. Why? So far no problems with any flashes from cheap $35 Achievers to mid Vivitar 285HVs to SB600/800. Actually have, was firing in continuous mode and the Achiever stopped working. Switched off and on, couldn't clear the problem! Had to bring out another Achiever as backup (coz shooting wedding).... The first flash cooled and continued working. :sweat:
Looks like quite a no. of pple are asking about the SB600. Actually if you ask me, the SB600 is more than enough for a standalone TTL auto flash, even for single remote off-cam flashing. SB800 is useful with its faster flash cycling time (if you need it), modeling lamp to look out for shadow and highlight interaction on the face and the likes, and definitely is the one to get if you do multiple flash setup since you can control other iTTL flashes' output on the SB800 master (say for portraits and you don't want studio units which are bigger and not as portable). The extra flashes can serve as backup.
In short, SB800 is a bit too much to pay if you are not shooting much. (eg for leisure non-paid use), unless money is not a problem.
Don't have to follow him but this gives you an idea. http://www.daveblackphotography.com/workshop/0407.htm
2100 said:I have a grey set SB600 and a local warrantied SB800. Why? So far no problems with any flashes from cheap $35 Achievers to mid Vivitar 285HVs to SB600/800. Actually have, was firing in continuous mode and the Achiever stopped working. Switched off and on, couldn't clear the problem! Had to bring out another Achiever as backup (coz shooting wedding).... The first flash cooled and continued working. :sweat:
Looks like quite a no. of pple are asking about the SB600. Actually if you ask me, the SB600 is more than enough for a standalone TTL auto flash, even for single remote off-cam flashing. SB800 is useful with its faster flash cycling time (if you need it), modeling lamp to look out for shadow and highlight interaction on the face and the likes, and definitely is the one to get if you do multiple flash setup since you can control other iTTL flashes' output on the SB800 master (say for portraits and you don't want studio units which are bigger and not as portable). The extra flashes can serve as backup.
In short, SB800 is a bit too much to pay if you are not shooting much. (eg for leisure non-paid use), unless money is not a problem.
Don't have to follow him but this gives you an idea. http://www.daveblackphotography.com/workshop/0407.htm
Thanks for the info.
I was wondering as i just got a sb600 and was worried it had a problem. I had used 2 older batteries and 2 new ones, same type( i know shouldnt mix, but wanted to try.No more batteries at home.)
At first all worked ok but when you turn off, the back light would hang. and wouldnt go off. It also wouldnt turn on again. You have to take out the batteries and then wait a while before you on again. The ready light also would not come on.
But when i put new batteries in it all seemed to work fine. ready light came on and the on and off function worked fine.
Do you think anything is wrong with the sb600 or is it normal when batteries are low?
Heh heh heh......i have not tried any flashes with low batteries. Coz by the time it takes slightly longer to recharge i'd have changed it already. Sounds like nothing wrong. Why not just pop by Alan Photo for Sanyo 2100 NiMH batts? $3 each only, the Sanyo quick charger is decent too at $30 with 2 Sanyo2100s. Or Eastgear @ peninsular, $16 for 4pcs of Sanyo2300.
Adzz said:
Really depends on the technology employed by the charger, ie how smart it is. Some detect full charge via temperature delta, some by peak voltage, some by timer, others by their own method. Most use certain types of pulse charging. Some what it fast and when a voltage is reached thus signalling near complete charge, it trickles down to top it off. The Sanyo one is not the most advanced but it does detect a fully charged battery ok (just not too fast), though it charges the batteries to quite hot a level, it is not a gentle charger. If your Panasonic charger employs only a timer and is calibrated for up to 1800mAH batts (2 years ago you said), then the 2300mAH batts won't be fully charged. Also, note that brand A 2300 batts are not the same as brand B 2300 batts, their chemistries are not the same, some cannot hold the charge as long and react differently to different rates of charge.
Note, if you want fast, it can be complete but it will be hot. If you want complete, and temperature low, it will not be fast though it will be gentle. Fast charging, gentle charging, low temperature charge, you can only choose 2.
Sometimes when i am ngeow, i do condition charge my discharge and then recharge batts at 0.05C for more than 24hrs in a normal Ni-Cd charger with slow charge (very low mA), this is like trickle charging all the way, complete and gentle charging. For 2300mAH, it's around 115mA. Usually if you do not exceed 0.1C, you can charge for as long as you like because it won't get too hot, temperature has a big detrimental effect. Make sure your charger vicinity has good ventilation.
Anyway, nowadays i don't bother much. Sanyo 2100 are so cheap. If performance hit, change.
Hmm, I would not mind not having a full charge. I do not wish to buy another charger, Sanyo batteries appears to be cheap as well. for the 2100mA, its just 12 bucks. My charger as a 8 hour cut off time. I reckon as long as it gives Sanyo batteries a charge that is as good as the normal alkaline batteries such as panasonic or energziner out there, it should be fine. afterall, i will be carrying 4 extra spare batteries.
Adzz said:
8hrs confirm cut off? Look at the charger, at the back or what. How many volts at how much current? It most probably cannot even adequately charge the 2100s, let alone fully charge. I suspect that it could be meant for the really old 1300mAH ones.
espn said:
already bought bought bought,,
After the kind advice form the friendly guys here in CS,, i just returned from AP and a sanyo 2100 charger kit (include 2 2100 bat) and ask for best price, so i got 2 more 2100 bat,, for 35$ inc gst
also got a hoya uv for 25$ , i needed some lens protection..
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