Resolution And Dynamic Range D700 vs D7000


Someone suggested that I use my existing NEX5 with an adaptor instead of a getting a new D7000. Can the aperture with a Nikon G lenses be adjusted on manual camera?
yes, with the right adaptor, it can.. the way it works is there is a screw pin that pushes the lever that adjust the aperture.. there is no indicator so it is just guessing

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Wow, that's DxO's lens correction? Very straight!

I found PS4's instruction online for correcting distortion before I use the same cropping technique; not as good as your's but slightly straighter than my earlier effort.

Nope, that's not DxO, that's my own tweaking using CS4's Lens Correction tool. This works alright if you ain't too particular about straightness. But I personally find straightness particularly important in your works and Lens Correction tool may not solve it sufficiently because it is very easy for the eyes to observe curve in objects in your case since your image is full of it.

If it's about sceneries and portrait, I'm not going to spend the time to even attempt to fix it unless it includes a horizon for instance.

I think you have not experienced the good part about DxO and hence you are skeptical about its purpose. One thing about the way we are currently solving the curve distortion using the Lens Correction filter is first you have to get the keystone/vertical perspective correct. You also need to get the horizontal perspective correct. Not to mention rotation ? When you add them up together, the problem is no longer trival to solve. You end up with a sloppy result because it is a difficult problem in the first place.

First I used my 28-85mm to show you a typical barrel distortion at the wide end. it's not very pronounce for this case since the distance from the near end to the far end is not too large. But you can already see the distortion towards the left of the screen. I use my MBP as an example because it is definitely straight for the LCD.
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Next I'm showing you below the one that is fixed with DxO. Because I'm using the flickr free account, therefore I can't show you the 100% image. But can see it is straighter. DxO can at times can't totally resolved the problem. If your photo is taken in a real scene like yours, it should be able to give a better output. Next is you don't even need to rotate it, tilted it or whatever. Just use as it is. Definitely save you a lot of time if you are doing this job often.
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I have also fixed my first photo taken above with vignetting correction, distortion correction, exposure compensation, lens softness correction, colour aberration correction, and below is the outcome of it.
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Note: DxO will first require that your camera and lens are supported candidate for calibration which you can refer to http://www.dxo.com/us/photo/dxo_optics_pro/for_your_equipment to check if your camera body is supported and which lens is calibrated with the body and also which edition of the DxO you need. You decide if you are willing to pay for the price.

If you send me a RAW of your photo taken, I can do a trial for you and let you see the outcome. Personally I say DxO is a very good product to consider.
 

Actually, both PS and LR nowadays all have lens profiles distortion correction as well. Most of the more popular lenses out there are pretty much covered nowadays. Even for a less popular lens like the Samyang 14mm with more complex wave distortion, you can download several profiles to correct the distortion with. You apply the one that is closest to your usage (in terms of Fstop selected).
 

Hi David,
apologies, but I can't really spot what you're trying to show between the first 2 photos.
Maybe my eyes also need to be DxO adjusted ;p

Are the gridlines slightly curved in photo #1, but straight in photo #2?
 

Hi David,
apologies, but I can't really spot what you're trying to show between the first 2 photos.
Maybe my eyes also need to be DxO adjusted ;p

Are the gridlines slightly curved in photo #1, but straight in photo #2?

he is trying to show distortion in the first 2 images if u look at the red line running along the left side of the laptop screen. u will see the side of the screen is not running parallel with the red line, showing the amt of distortion.

not a good example though. was scratching my head for awhile before i understand. lol.
 

he is trying to show distortion in the first 2 images if u look at the red line running along the left side of the laptop screen. u will see the side of the screen is not running parallel with the red line, showing the amt of distortion.

not a good example though. was scratching my head for awhile before i understand. lol.

wah ok.
thanks man!
My eyes :bigeyes: liao.... hehe
 

he is trying to show distortion in the first 2 images if u look at the red line running along the left side of the laptop screen. u will see the side of the screen is not running parallel with the red line, showing the amt of distortion.

not a good example though. was scratching my head for awhile before i understand. lol.

Indeed those are bad examples, I can't demonstrate much within a small confined area in my room. Hence I decided to do it in a carpark and furthermore using the Canon S95 because it does exhibit exceptional barrel distortion on the wideness end.

Lets start with the first image below. This is the complete interface of DxO and it has all the options for tweaking on the right panel. This is not the complete set for I have hidden a number of them. But what you can also see is on the left image window the "As shot" without tweaking and the right image window showing some of the corrected ones. Because it is only in 17% of the actual image size, and not more than or equal to 75%, DxO choose to leave out the DxO lens softness correction, Noise correction and also the Chromatic Aberration correction processes. But I think just this pic alone would have shown you how easy it is to achieve so much with so little work work manually.
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Next I am showing just the keystone correction interface. All it needs is 2 straight line to be indicated on the image. Immediately you will see on the right, the image is straight and upright. No sweat and simple and definitely a lot more accurate than other tools available in other applications such as PS and LR. Not unless your application and your eyes are so power to go sub pixel granularity.
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How about this ? It seems like nothing is corrected ? Well that's not true. Volume Anamorphosis Correction is applied. If you want to know more, read from http://www.dxo.com/us/photo/dxo_optics_pro/optics_geometry_corrections/anamorphosis

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How about this ? This is the normal colour aberration correction from DxO. It also tackle purple fringing that are commonly exhibited in large aperture lens such as 50mm f/1.4 or 84mm f/1.4. It looks soft when the aperture is wide open, that's because the softness is commonly due to ultraviolet range of aberration that makes the pic looks softer than it really is. If your aperture is small, actually it is small for all these images at f/8, but well Canon S95 is not exactly a fantastic camera so to speak. But it's handy and given it's built and size, I say it's first class for P&S (sadly S100 is coming out soon...)
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Last but not least, 100% zoom in to the distorted corners
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So I hope this little demonstration gives you a good idea of the power of DxO. I'm not selling for them and I don't get commission. I'm just doing my due diligence to introduce something good that this community can leverage on. Ultimately you decide if you wanna purchase it. If you are earning from your works, I say US$299 for elite and US$199 for standard is a good buy. There again it's just my 2 cents worth.
 

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Hi Rasdeep,

I bought a Nikon 12-24mm F4 yesterday, but unfortunately my Nikon NEX adapter didn't have such a feature, so can only operate at minimum aperture; since it's a G lens. I went ahead and bought a D7000 body last night.

Thanks for the info anyway.
 

Hi David,

I really appreciate all the info and advice you've provided. I was only looking for something to shoot images with minimal distortion...didn't expect to come so far:)
 

sonq9 said:
Hi Rasdeep,

I bought a Nikon 12-24mm F4 yesterday, but unfortunately my Nikon NEX adapter didn't have such a feature, so can only operate at minimum aperture; since it's a G lens. I went ahead and bought a D7000 body last night.

Thanks for the info anyway.

Wah spending big bucks!

Welcome to the dark side!!
Btw what was your reason for choosing 12-24 over the 10-24?
 

Both are good but the 12-24 has a constant max aperture of F4; easier for me since I usually use manual mode. The extra 2mm on the 10-24 means little to me as I usually shoot above 14mm.
 

sonq9 said:
Hi David,

I really appreciate all the info and advice you've provided. I was only looking for something to shoot images with minimal distortion...didn't expect to come so far:)

Sure.
 

Hi Rasdeep,

I bought a Nikon 12-24mm F4 yesterday, but unfortunately my Nikon NEX adapter didn't have such a feature, so can only operate at minimum aperture; since it's a G lens. I went ahead and bought a D7000 body last night.

Thanks for the info anyway.
D7000 is a good buy :)
Its good to have two bodies to play around. Maybe now get an adaptor that can controls the aperture so you can make use of your nikon lenses on NEX which is what I am doing too.
 

Enjoy your D7000....sonq9....