Regarding filters


Agree with DD123... If you don't understand the purpose of both ND and GND filters, then don't go into it yet.. or else get both also no use - instant white elephants.

Repeating what's been said... Neutral Filters (NDs) - just to delay the expose (so that you can get smooth water effect - blur slow moving objects (like the Singapore Flyer), the stronger the ND the longer the camera is forced to expose.

Graduated Neutral Filters (GNDs) - while looks like a sibbling of ND, really have a different purpose altogether and that is to underexpose the stronger portion of the horizon (higher intensity skies, etc) - so that the rest of the scene (not as strong) can be exposed properly...

NDs are easier to use than GNDs - as the latter have hard and soft types (depending on situations).

This can be considered spoon-feeding... if you still can't understand what I've just said or what others provided - please google for both so that you can read in greater detail with examples (some do provide image examples).

One more step to help you further, if you want a good read - go buy the issue of Landscape Photography published by Digital SLR magazine (UK based)... Should be able to find this issue at most of the known bookstores or smaller news-stands (ones that also sell tidbits/exchange money/phone card).. TK also carry this mag.

thanks, looks like it was really a miscomm (sorry DD123 :) )

from here, it looks like i need a ND filter more cause i'm looking more towards taking shots with slower shutter speed. other than that, i still got my CPL, althou not as flexible as the GND but still helps. can also take HDR pics also if really need to
 

thanks, looks like it was really a miscomm (sorry DD123 :) )

from here, it looks like i need a ND filter more cause i'm looking more towards taking shots with slower shutter speed. other than that, i still got my CPL, althou not as flexible as the GND but still helps. can also take HDR pics also if really need to

No worries, we're all just trying to help. Btw, I'm using my GND as an ND as well (100 X 150 mm), slide it down far enough to cover my lens' 77mm opening. I know that's not recommended by some, but it's still a trial period for me. Seems to work so far.
 

I really like the pcitures used with ND110, but can't get any. :cry:
 

thanks, looks like it was really a miscomm (sorry DD123 :) )

from here, it looks like i need a ND filter more cause i'm looking more towards taking shots with slower shutter speed. other than that, i still got my CPL, althou not as flexible as the GND but still helps. can also take HDR pics also if really need to

No need to apologize.

CPL will not work well on a UWA lens if you are using that. You will get uneven polarization. Also, at certain times of the day (sunrise and sunset especially), CPL is not too useful. CPL works best at 90 deg angle from the sun. If you are shooting into the sunrise or sunset, the effect is diminished.

Also, CPL you only get 1.5-2 stops. During some sunrises and sunsets, you need to balance a lot of the sky to get the foreground to show. Sometimes was much as 3-5 stops. That is why most people use a 3-stop GND, and get more balance in PP pushing 1 -2 more stops back. CPL will be useless in situations like these.
 

there are screw in gnd

but i don't know why people make them

the horizon is fixed, that's just plain silly

I have both the slot-in and screw-on GND filters. For most general situations, the slot-in setup is the one to use and I would advise people to start with them first.

However the slot-in setup is cumbersome when you always have to be on the move and need to put in and take out the camera from your bag. That's where a screw-on setup comes into its own. And you learn to live with it.
 

Has anyone tried using or bought Fader ND Filter ( ND2 to ND400) Neutral Density filter before? Any comments about such filters that work like CPL, which varies the the level of ND by turning the filter ?
 

However the slot-in setup is cumbersome when you always have to be on the move and need to put in and take out the camera from your bag. That's where a screw-on setup comes into its own. And you learn to live with it.

i would take the trouble to get the shot i want, instead of having a half-past-six shot where the horizon line for the GND is smack in the middle... very seldom you will end up with this case, only with reflections, then the composition will be ok.
 

Hi DD123

I read this thread with much interest. Noted that you chose to use Lee foundation Kit but Hitech GNDs.

Hope you can help me with the following questions:
a) Are you using the Lee Kit/adapter ring rather than the Hitech holder and adapter ring because Hitech is heavier or because Lee Kit is expandable with additional slot or for both reasons or some other reason(s)?
b) In your opinion are the Hitech GNDs (those that you have) as good as the equivalent Lee GNDs?

I am thinking of buying the same set up of holder, adapter and GND as you, but understand that Lee Foundation Kit is out of stock, but the Hitech holder is available. And if Lee GND is much better than Hitech GND (I am comparing the resin types), I may want to go ahead to buy the Lee GNDs (although I may buy one piece at a time), but it appear that Lee GNDs are also out of stock at the moment.

If there are not much differences, it is definite cheaper for me to buy Hitech for both the holder/adapter and the filters. Will appreciate your comment on this.

When I use CPL, I will not not be using any slot in filters.

CPL: Kenko Pro1D wideband slim CPL 72mm. Hoya CPL 58mm, Tokina CPL 52mm.
UV/Protectors: Kenko Pro1D Protectors (UV on old lenses that I sometimes use on film cameras)
Slotted holder: Lee foundation Kit, 77mm adapter ring. Step up rings 67-77, 72-77 for my different lenses.
Slotted filters: Hitech GND 0.3S(GND2) S0.6S(GND4) S0.9S(GND8). Hitech ND0.9 (ND8)
ND fitlers: B+W ND110 77mm, Hoya ND4 52mm
Others: Hoya 55mm FL-W and ND2

quite a number of my filters are from my old days...
 

Hi DD123

I read this thread with much interest. Noted that you chose to use Lee foundation Kit but Hitech GNDs.

Hope you can help me with the following questions:
a) Are you using the Lee Kit/adapter ring rather than the Hitech holder and adapter ring because Hitech is heavier or because Lee Kit is expandable with additional slot or for both reasons or some other reason(s)?
b) In your opinion are the Hitech GNDs (those that you have) as good as the equivalent Lee GNDs?

I am thinking of buying the same set up of holder, adapter and GND as you, but understand that Lee Foundation Kit is out of stock, but the Hitech holder is available. And if Lee GND is much better than Hitech GND (I am comparing the resin types), I may want to go ahead to buy the Lee GNDs (although I may buy one piece at a time), but it appear that Lee GNDs are also out of stock at the moment.

If there are not much differences, it is definite cheaper for me to buy Hitech for both the holder/adapter and the filters. Will appreciate your comment on this.

I only needed 2 slots. As long as the holder do not vignette, I really don't care which holder I use. I did not really choose LEE actively. What happened was I saw a BnS ad selling Lee foundation and 3 pieces of Hitech GND with 2 step-up rings. It was quite a good deal so I ended up with the LEE foundation kit.

I never used LEE GND's before. But seen them used by a good friend of mine. So far Hitech GNDs work very well with no issues and no discernible color cast even after stacking.
 

Thanks for your sharing. It helps. Indeed I am glad to know that Hitech GNDs works well and most importantly you did not find any discernible colour cast. :)