Recommend settings for night shots


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currahee

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#1
What camera settings (like aperture size, exposure time) do u all use when u take a night shot of a city skyline? Any way to gauge? And how to achieve the star effect from the lights? Do u use the built in flash of ur SLR?
 

Jer76

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#2
Originally posted by currahee
What camera settings (like aperture size, exposure time) do u all use when u take a night shot of a city skyline? Any way to gauge? And how to achieve the star effect from the lights? Do u use the built in flash of ur SLR?
erm usually we dun use flash for a nite shot of a city skyline.. to compensate for that usually a long shutter speed is used based on the exposure u want... for the star effect you need a "star" filter they have it in camera shops.. hope this helps : )
 

currahee

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#3
What are the usual aperture n exposure settings used?
Is it better to use a big aperture or smaller aperture for better results?
 

mervlam

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#4
Originally posted by currahee
What are the usual aperture n exposure settings used?
Is it better to use a big aperture or smaller aperture for better results?
Exposure will depend on your camera meter's recommendations.

Usual aperture for me will be f/8 to f/16 for deeper depth of field. A smaller aperture will be better for the above reason.

Why don't you go out and try some of the techniques discussed here? :) I realised that you have ask quite a few questions in the forum. Nothing will beat practice and more practice. Talk does not count. But of course you can clear your doubts here. :D
 

currahee

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#5
i usu take using f5.6, then ard 3s exposure....think still acceptable....so tot of asking ard wat settings u all use
 

#6
Originally posted by Jer76


erm usually we dun use flash for a nite shot of a city skyline.. to compensate for that usually a long shutter speed is used based on the exposure u want... for the star effect you need a "star" filter they have it in camera shops.. hope this helps : )
Not true. You can get a star effect by stopping down all the way (f16+). Basically, do this:

1) Set your camera on a tripod (*duh*)
2) Get a meter reading at your widest aperture
3) Interpret your actual exposure (ie. your reading is 1/4@f5.6, then you can shoot at 1/2@f8, 1"@f16, etc...)
4) Shoot at this exposure.
5) Shoot another shot at 1 full stop over (ie. 4" instead of 2") and 2 full stops over. This is to try and guess a compensation for reprocicity failure (RF). RF is the the umpredictability of color film emultions over 1". After 1 second the red, green, and blue layers may not (will not) expose evenly. You can check the Internet for actual exposure compensation amounts. I have a RF compensation chart on my website for Velvia.
 

#7
Originally posted by currahee
What are the usual aperture n exposure settings used?
Is it better to use a big aperture or smaller aperture for better results?
Big aperture = street lights as blobs, faster exposure
Small aperture = street lights as 4-point stars, slow exposure, and the possibility of flare if you are too close to a bright light source
 

#10
Originally posted by imaginary_number
What ISO settings do you usually use? I tried 400 but noise becomes more obvious...:dunno:
I use film for long-exposures of citiscapes...detail is too key to lose it using digital...so, I can't "set" the ISO. Anyway, I usually shoot with Provia 100F because it has the best RF properites of any film: up to 16 seconds with no exposure adjustment needed. I still bracket, though...1/2 and 1 stop overexposure.
 

MaGixShOe

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#11
Originally posted by imaginary_number
What ISO settings do you usually use? I tried 400 but noise becomes more obvious...:dunno:
use the lowest iso level and compensate with a longer shutter speed
 

Feb 3, 2002
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#13
Ok, thanx guys for the fast reply. I think the shutter speed for my dc is 3s max, seems kinda limited huh?


hmm... I shall try ISO 160/200 at 3s the next time.
 

MaGixShOe

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#15
Originally posted by imaginary_number
Ok, thanx guys for the fast reply. I think the shutter speed for my dc is 3s max, seems kinda limited huh?


hmm... I shall try ISO 160/200 at 3s the next time.
i tink it will still be dark...but also must see the lighting how bright is it
 

mervlam

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#16
Originally posted by MaGixShOe
any reason to use a smaller apeture?
so that all the buildings will surely be in focus......... due to depth of field
 

MaGixShOe

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#17
i notice that if i use a larger apeture like f-2.8 i only need about 2 secs to get the light coming thru
if i use f-8.0 i need about 10 secs or above to get the photo brght enough
but most of the time i set it to about 4-5 f stop
 

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