Qn on pushing of Tmax 100

[code]

Can one push Tmax 100 to 200 or 400? Which is better?

Also, if for example I have set the ISO to 200 for Tmax 100 for the first shot and decides to either set it back to 100 or push it to 400 for the remaining roll, which would be under/over exposing that frame?

Thanks

 

[espn]

Not an experienced film user but...

I believe you can push/pull a film 3 stops.

To Tmax 100 to 400 is fine, but experienced film users tells me the effects aren't desirable.

The answer to your question depends mostly on how you're developing.

If you're doing it as Tmax200, then the 100 will be under exposed, 400 will be over.

If you're developing as Tmax100, then 200, 400 will be over.

If you're developing as Tmax400, then 100, 200 will be under.

 

[code]

Thanks epsn. I would prefer not to over expose my first frame (shot setting the ISO at 200), so setting the ISO back to 100 and developing it as Tmax 100 is no go.

Looks like I will have to continue shooting the remaining roll at 200.

 

[catchlights]

Can one push Tmax 100 to 200 or 400? Which is better?

Also, if for example I have set the ISO to 200 for Tmax 100 for the first shot and decides to either set it back to 100 or push it to 400 for the remaining roll, which would be under/over exposing that frame?

Thanks

IIRC, Tmax is not suitable for push and pull processing, if you want to to do push and pull, use triX or HP5.

B/w negative has greater exposure latitude and can handle overexpose better than underexpose, so most people overexpose the negative by one stop to retain shadows details.

Btw, when you want to rate the film speed differently, have to apply to the entire roll, not the first few or centre few or last few, unless you want to cut your film into chi zhong fun and process it.

Hope this help.

 

[code]

thanks student. I am aware that it should be rated the same for the whole roll. Just that I have shot one shot only and wonder how that shot would turn out if I set my ISO back to 100 and develop the film as Tmax 100. Looks like it will overexpose.

thanks again for all advice. Can always count on CS for prompt advice.

 

[catchlights]

thanks student. I am aware that it should be rated the same for the whole roll. Just that I have shot one shot only and wonder how that shot would turn out if I set my ISO back to 100 and develop the film as Tmax 100. Looks like it will overexpose.

thanks again for all advice. Can always count on CS for prompt advice.

1. I'm not Dr Chong aka student.
2. Your 1st shot is rate at ISO 200, if you expose the rest as ISO 100 and process as ISO 100, your 1st shot is underexpose by one stop.

Hope this help.

 

[code]

Sorry for the mistake! :embrass:

 

[VincentLin]

I usually manual rate Tmax 100 at 50. Overexposure by 1 to 2 stops. Comes out with great contrast. I don't know much about the theory, but my settings are based on experience and loads of wasted films :bsmilie:.

You can also try my favourite b&w - neopan 100. I think ruby sells this in singapore, but i buy mine from JP.

 

[catchlights]

Sorry for the mistake! :embrass:

No problem.

We do make mistakes, that's how we learn.

Btw, I make a mistakes too in post#4,

B/w negative has greater exposure latitude and can handle overexpose better than underexpose, so most people overexpose the negative by one stop to retain shadows details.

Is shadows details, not hightlight details, and has been edited, please take note.

 

[SniperD]

IIRC, Tmax is not suitable for push and pull processing, if you want to to do push and pull, use triX or HP5.

B/w negative has greater exposure latitude and can handle overexpose better than underexpose, so most people overexpose the negative by one stop to retain shadows details.

Btw, when you want to rate the film speed differently, have to apply to the entire roll, not the first few or centre few or last few, unless you want to cut your film into chi zhong fun and process it.

Hope this help.

I concur TMAX is rather biased while the rest like Neopan, TriX, HP5 have better latitude IMHO.