Overexposed Face Shots


baggiolee

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Dec 7, 2006
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#1
i'm using a sb900 (default settings, TTL, -0.7 EV) with omni diffuser usually tilted at 45 deg. to shoot models in IT/car show. i know that it won't be able to bounce the ceilings as its too high. Is there anyway to prevent/reduce the overexposed face shoots with my current flash set up? i'm trying to get the right exposure more evenly distributed. :) should i use the built in wide flash adapter instead? as i'm usually is around 2-3m from the model. :think:
 

eleveninth

Senior Member
Jan 17, 2006
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#2
i'm using a sb900 (default settings, TTL, -0.7 EV) with omni diffuser usually tilted at 45 deg. to shoot models in IT/car show. i know that it won't be able to bounce the ceilings as its too high. Is there anyway to prevent/reduce the overexposed face shoots with my current flash set up? i'm trying to get the right exposure more evenly distributed. :) should i use the built in wide flash adapter instead? as i'm usually is around 2-3m from the model. :think:
shoot manual.
 

Squid

New Member
Jun 10, 2004
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#3
You may experiment with one or combination of following:

-- shoot using TTL-BL mode instead of TTL mode
-- mount flash on flash bracket like those sold by Manda Photo to further increase distance between the flash and the subject.
-- tilt the flash 90 degrees (instead of 45 degrees)
-- shoot using AF-S mode instead of AF-C mode as the Nikon flash may activate the wide-area AF-assist illuminator (i.e. the flashes' red lights) before shutter release.

I have some success using above methods.
 

blueskye168

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Aug 28, 2006
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#4
i'm using a sb900 (default settings, TTL, -0.7 EV) with omni diffuser usually tilted at 45 deg. to shoot models in IT/car show. i know that it won't be able to bounce the ceilings as its too high. Is there anyway to prevent/reduce the overexposed face shoots with my current flash set up? i'm trying to get the right exposure more evenly distributed. :) should i use the built in wide flash adapter instead? as i'm usually is around 2-3m from the model. :think:
Well, with the limited info/details which you've provided can't really give any appropriate advice, would be better if you can provide me/us with the pic/s and with 'Exif' intact...:)
 

daredevil123

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Oct 25, 2005
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#5
Diffusing flash is to increase the size of the light source. The bigger the light source, the more diffused it will be. Remember that the cap diffuser or omnibounce works well in indoors where there are lots of walls and ceilings to bounce from so effectively enlarging the light sources from all directions. Outdoors or in large spaces, with not much to bounce the light off from, the light source is still about the same size as the flash without the cap. So the light will still be harsh.

Maybe you want to try a large bounce card or something similar.
 

baggiolee

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#6
Diffusing flash is to increase the size of the light source. The bigger the light source, the more diffused it will be. Remember that the cap diffuser or omnibounce works well in indoors where there are lots of walls and ceilings to bounce from so effectively enlarging the light sources from all directions. Outdoors or in large spaces, with not much to bounce the light off from, the light source is still about the same size as the flash without the cap. So the light will still be harsh.

Maybe you want to try a large bounce card or something similar.
any good bounced card to recommend? i need to shoot in portrait orientation most of the time...
 

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baggiolee

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#8
You may experiment with one or combination of following:

-- shoot using TTL-BL mode instead of TTL mode
-- mount flash on flash bracket like those sold by Manda Photo to further increase distance between the flash and the subject.
-- tilt the flash 90 degrees (instead of 45 degrees)
-- shoot using AF-S mode instead of AF-C mode as the Nikon flash may activate the wide-area AF-assist illuminator (i.e. the flashes' red lights) before shutter release.

I have some success using above methods.
i've tried 1,3,4. sometimes i can get the right exposure but there are inconsistent times: only center part of the subject is bright (chest), OR the whole subject overexposed, face and chest etc.
 

blueskye168

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Aug 28, 2006
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#10
Well, with the limited info/details which you've provided can't really give any appropriate advice, would be better if you can provide me/us with the pic/s and with 'Exif' intact...:)
Keen or not to my above suggested...?
Do you still need my guidance/help?
If yes, follow what I've mentioned above...!!

Btw, you'd have know/learnt all these "doubts" way before you advertised for yourself as a Freelance/event/wedding photographer...( went thru your flickr-portfolio...), my most Sincere-Advice is 'Ready yourself' and not "Getting-Ready-while-on-the-Job/Assignment" - were/had highlighted just weeks ago under "Photo-Biz"-Section - "It's easy to 'Tarnished' ones reputation but not easy as to 'Re-build' ones reputation"...!!
 

Last edited:

Squid

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Jun 10, 2004
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#11
You may experiment with one or combination of following:

-- shoot using TTL-BL mode instead of TTL mode
-- mount flash on flash bracket like those sold by Manda Photo to further increase distance between the flash and the subject.
-- tilt the flash 90 degrees (instead of 45 degrees)
-- shoot using AF-S mode instead of AF-C mode as the Nikon flash may activate the wide-area AF-assist illuminator (i.e. the flashes' red lights) before shutter release.
i've tried 1,3,4. sometimes i can get the right exposure but there are inconsistent times: only center part of the subject is bright (chest), OR the whole subject overexposed, face and chest etc.
You may refer these link which explain about Nikon flash limitation:
-- http://nikonclspracticalguide.blogspot.com/2008/03/ttl-and-ttl-bl-study.html
-- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=he35-IRSd2c

Else, you may have to try "FV Lock" feature offered in Nikon flash, which IMHO maybe more cumbersome.
 

baggiolee

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#12
Keen or not to my above suggested...?
Do you still need my guidance/help?
If yes, follow what I've mentioned above...!!

Btw, you'd have know/learnt all these "doubts" way before you advertised for yourself as a Freelance/event/wedding photographer...( went thru your flickr-portfolio...), my most Sincere-Advice is 'Ready yourself' and not "Getting-Ready-while-on-the-Job/Assignment" - were/had highlighted just weeks ago under "Photo-Biz"-Section - "It's easy to 'Tarnished' ones reputation but not easy as to 'Re-build' ones reputation"...!!
Why are you keep forcing me to post the photos? I know it'll be helpful but there's a reason why i can't post as the photos are not with me. i'm grateful to anyone who can advice me but you don't have to keep forcing me to do something.
 

catchlights

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Sep 27, 2004
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#13
different metering mode, focal length, subject distance from the camera, size of subject in the frame, color and material your subject wearing, any highly reflective items in the frame will affect the final exposure.
the best way is to shoot in manual mode with flash and camera. either you calculate the flash to subject distant or shoot, review and adjust.
 

blueskye168

Senior Member
Aug 28, 2006
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#14
Well, with the limited info/details which you've provided can't really give any appropriate advice, would be better if you can provide me/us with the pic/s and with 'Exif' intact...:)
Why are you keep forcing me to post the photos? I know it'll be helpful but there's a reason why i can't post as the photos are not with me. i'm grateful to anyone who can advice me but you don't have to keep forcing me to do something.
Where is your manner in the first place...(already so Disappointed after receiving/reading your reply:( ), when a Photographer sincerely wanted to help you just that he ( I, in this case) merely needed a "Clearer-Picture" so as not to give any inappropriate guidance/tips to you which may cause or lead to any unwanted disagreement and/or worst scenario 'Dispute'...!!

You said "you keep forcing me...", point out to me/us where=how many times to consider as "you keep forcing me..."??? Do you know how to carefully what I had written, the words I used were "IF" meaning of "IF" in the above scenario purely referred to as - if you can/willing, if not, not much can be carried out on my ends...!! Just that simple only right, bro?? Just what are you thinking ( very Negative-thoughts are just what you've shown me/us...!!) Why you like that/this leh...?? You asked yourself how many 'Busy as in mending with two-Trades/Bizs-man" so willing to give Sincere-guides/tips...and here you're trying to create and make things difficult for me...why???...I didn't get any pay from you, you know...??? Very Disappointed with you. You never show any appreciation yet why want to accused me for what you've mentioned...OH GOSH!!!:eek:

You'd have read more of how I talked/give-guides/tips/Constructives comments on their displayed 'Showcases' in diff Sections, to the rest of CSers and how much I've given them my 'Time' ( regardless with my very busy schedules...I need to work thru nite and days you know...??!!)

Ok...enough, enough, I'm in fact a very much under Stressed person ( only Bro knows me well...)IF you still want then carry on...IF not, then forget about everythings......why must I be "treated" and deserved like that/this:(when I so much wanted to help out:(...is it Fair to me pls...!![om mani padme hung]~peace.
 

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kei1309

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Apr 12, 2010
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#15
oh. TS~~

you love to shoot in portrait orientation?

then i'll recommend you this flash :D

it can tilt very well... and all you need is a bounce card to widen the coverage.

:bsmilie:
 

baggiolee

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Dec 7, 2006
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#16
Where is your manner in the first place...(already so Disappointed after receiving/reading your reply:( ), when a Photographer sincerely wanted to help you just that he ( I, in this case) merely needed a "Clearer-Picture" so as not to give any inappropriate guidance/tips to you which may cause or lead to any unwanted disagreement and/or worst scenario 'Dispute'...!!

You said "you keep forcing me...", point out to me/us where=how many times to consider as "you keep forcing me..."??? Do you know how to carefully what I had written, the words I used were "IF" meaning of "IF" in the above scenario purely referred to as - if you can/willing, if not, not much can be carried out on my ends...!! Just that simple only right, bro?? Just what are you thinking ( very Negative-thoughts are just what you've shown me/us...!!) Why you like that/this leh...?? You asked yourself how many 'Busy as in mending with two-Trades/Bizs-man" so willing to give Sincere-guides/tips...and here you're trying to create and make things difficult for me...why???...I didn't get any pay from you, you know...??? Very Disappointed with you. You never show any appreciation yet why want to accused me for what you've mentioned...OH GOSH!!!:eek:

You'd have read more of how I talked/give-guides/tips/Constructives comments on their displayed 'Showcases' in diff Sections, to the rest of CSers and how much I've given them my 'Time' ( regardless with my very busy schedules...I need to work thru nite and days you know...??!!)

Ok...enough, enough, I'm in fact a very much under Stressed person ( only Bro knows me well...)IF you still want then carry on...IF not, then forget about everythings......why must I be "treated" and deserved like that/this:(when I so much wanted to help out:(...is it Fair to me pls...!![om mani padme hung]~peace.
strange guy... anyway...thx for ur help!
 

baggiolee

New Member
Dec 7, 2006
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#17
different metering mode, focal length, subject distance from the camera, size of subject in the frame, color and material your subject wearing, any highly reflective items in the frame will affect the final exposure.
the best way is to shoot in manual mode with flash and camera. either you calculate the flash to subject distant or shoot, review and adjust.
icic thx!...i'll need to do more test and practice.
 

Squid

New Member
Jun 10, 2004
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#19
different metering mode, focal length, subject distance from the camera, size of subject in the frame, color and material your subject wearing, any highly reflective items in the frame will affect the final exposure.
the best way is to shoot in manual mode with flash and camera. either you calculate the flash to subject distant or shoot, review and adjust.
icic thx!...i'll need to do more test and practice.
The more automated version of catchlights suggestion is called "Flash Value Lock". See explanation from following links:
--- https://nikoneurope-en.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/23820/~/what-is-fv-lock?
--- http://www.olegnovikov.com/technical/nikoncls/cls.shtml
--- http://cameraclubconfidential.com/2...-thing-to-know-about-nikon-flash-photography/
--- http://nikonclspracticalguide.blogspot.com/2008/01/4-so-what-is-flash-value-lock.html
 

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