Outdoor Event: Capturing amazing 4K timelapse with Drawde (Edward Tian) 12th Jan

[CamInit]

Looks good weather today, see u all.

I am here, but where is the gathering point? So many tourists... lol.

 

[RyanKhoo]

Nice outing, really learn a lot from all the sifus.

Thanks to:

1) Edward Tian for all the tips on the settings & setup

2) pettypoh for showing me how to use my camera

3) bamboopictures Rodney for all his tips on timelapse

4) wonglp for sharing his experience

5)and the rest whom I made friends with but forget your name liao, my apologies ...

Thank you

 

[RyanKhoo]

Hi Edward,

For the benefits of others who did not attend or who like me attend but missed out some important info (due to not paying attention & talking to Rodney & pettypoh ... :bsmilie::bsmilie, here are some of the settings you recommended:

1) Mode set to Aperture Priority

2) WB set to Auto White Balance for holy grail type of timelapse. If constant exposure then set to the environment you are in eg sunlight or tungsten or florescene ... etc)

3) ISO set to 400 (if bright) or 800 (if dark)

4) Focus set to manual

5) Turn on iDynamic and +2 for shadow, -3 for highlights

6) Aperture set to 5.6

7) Ratio set to 16:9

8) Interval 5 sec to 10 sec depending on how fast the cloud moves

9)

10)

Others, please copy & paste to fill in those that I missed out.

And true enough, we observed with the above settings, there was no flickering at all.

Thank you

 

[RyanKhoo]

What lah, I just saw the timelapse photos that I took, it has a dust at a fixed point leh ... sigh ... how to get rid of it ?

 

[ywh]

Hi Edward,

For the benefits of others who did not attend or who like me attend but missed out some important info (due to not paying attention & talking to Rodney & pettypoh ... :bsmilie::bsmilie, here are some of the settings you recommended:

1) Mode set to Aperture Priority

2) WB set to Auto White Balance for holy grail type of timelapse. If constant exposure then set to the environment you are in eg sunlight or tungsten or florescene ... etc)

3) ISO set to 400 (if bright) or 800 (if dark)

4) Focus set to manual

5) Turn on iDynamic and +2 for shadow, -3 for highlights

6) Aperture set to 5.6

7) Ratio set to 16:9

8) Interval 5 sec to 10 sec depending on how fast the cloud moves

9)

10)

Others, please copy & paste to fill in those that I missed out.

And true enough, we observed with the above settings, there was no flickering at all.

Thank you

Thanks for sharing Ryan. Im sure you had a great time meeting the experts. I do however humbly differ from the some of the points:

1) AV mode? It was what I used when I first started out way back in 2006. Manual mode is the way to go unless one wants to deal with severe exposure flicker which WILL definitely regardless of setup. I have shot extensively with the Panasonic GM1 and flicker is still present as with DSLRs.

2) For WB, using AWB creates wb flicker. Setting it to a set value such as 6000k, 4000k or whatever you want will avoid that. That said, if one is shooting in RAW, the WB does not matter.

3) Why 400? I use 100 in broad daylight and will not hesitate to bring that up to 3200 if it gets too dark and I want to avoid dragging the shutter.

4) Yup.

5) Doesn't matter if RAW is the chosen format.

6) No. Aperture flicker will be the result. I have stopped down a max of 1.5 stops from wide open and have seen no flicker. Any smaller and it progressively gets worse.

7) Doesn't matter if RAW is once again the chosen format.

8) For clouds, I use a max of 5 seconds. I rather have more frames and speed it up in post than to suffer from stutter.


As for your dust spot. Right now, you can import the files into Lightroom and remove it from one frame and copy the Develop settings to all the other frames and export the entire folder. For me personally, that is one advantage of shooting wide open or 1 stop closed down is to avoid any potential spots appearing.

My above points are my opinions and as you have mentioned, there is no flicker witnessed. It could simply be that Panasonic has built in anti-flicker while processing the video files in-camera. Either way, for best results, I will not have the camera process the files for me.

 

[CamInit]

Thanks for sharing Ryan. Im sure you had a great time meeting the experts. I do however humbly differ from the some of the points:

1) AV mode? It was what I used when I first started out way back in 2006. Manual mode is the way to go unless one wants to deal with severe exposure flicker which WILL definitely regardless of setup. I have shot extensively with the Panasonic GM1 and flicker is still present as with DSLRs.

2) For WB, using AWB creates wb flicker. Setting it to a set value such as 6000k, 4000k or whatever you want will avoid that. That said, if one is shooting in RAW, the WB does not matter.

3) Why 400? I use 100 in broad daylight and will not hesitate to bring that up to 3200 if it gets too dark and I want to avoid dragging the shutter.

4) Yup.

5) Doesn't matter if RAW is the chosen format.

6) No. Aperture flicker will be the result. I have stopped down a max of 1.5 stops from wide open and have seen no flicker. Any smaller and it progressively gets worse.

7) Doesn't matter if RAW is once again the chosen format.

8) For clouds, I use a max of 5 seconds. I rather have more frames and speed it up in post than to suffer from stutter.


As for your dust spot. Right now, you can import the files into Lightroom and remove it from one frame and copy the Develop settings to all the other frames and export the entire folder. For me personally, that is one advantage of shooting wide open or 1 stop closed down is to avoid any potential spots appearing.

My above points are my opinions and as you have mentioned, there is no flicker witnessed. It could simply be that Panasonic has built in anti-flicker while processing the video files in-camera. Either way, for best results, I will not have the camera process the files for me.

ywh, what you said is correct. However, I think the purpose of the session is to showcase how one could easily do 4K timelapse with minimal fuss using Panasonic cameras. It's alternatively fast and quite effortless compared to the "normal" way of shoot raw, export to LR then lrtimelapse to deflicker, then export to AE for stabilization / post edit before final render, etc using DSLRs. One trades off certain level of control for ease and speed, amongst which both approaches have their own set of pros and cons.

Timelapse is one photography genre that I find is highly gear dependent, especially when you start to dig deeper into it. The settings recommended by Edward might not be suitable on other bodies, but I must say the output is pretty good for the minimal amount of effort put in. Personally, I find it benefiting to explore/see things being done in another way.

As for the separate issue on flickering, for myself, I always shoot wide open (at f/4 usually) on manual to minimize shutter flicker. DOF is no issue as I tend to shoot very wide (11mm onwards, full frame wise). Otherwise I use lens with manual aperture. LRtimelapse takes care of rest of the flickering from environmental factors.

 

[pettypoh]

thanks edward for taking time out to guide on the use of timelapse on these panasonic cameras and of course to ClubSnap for setting up this session << so beneficial, sometimes go outdoors do some exercise good for body and mind right?

@ryan - hey! don't sabo me leh ... i was paying attention in class leh, u were the one keep talking =D just kidding ... thanks for the notes on settings for panasonic camera
> btw, did you encounter flicker for your unit?
>> to remove dust spot, you can try ywh suggestion via lightroom or record a script via photoshop and do a batch-run

@ywh - bro, u very high level already lahh =D
this session is more relevant for basic users (fuss-free and no additional post-processing being the more important factors that edward was trying to show), and actually I think it's a good start for those who wish to try out some timelapse, maybe just to mix into with their holiday/travel videos for some variety into the storyline

end of the day, ownself happy can already

 

[RyanKhoo]

Thanks for sharing Ryan. Im sure you had a great time meeting the experts. I do however humbly differ from the some of the points:

1) AV mode? It was what I used when I first started out way back in 2006. Manual mode is the way to go unless one wants to deal with severe exposure flicker which WILL definitely regardless of setup. I have shot extensively with the Panasonic GM1 and flicker is still present as with DSLRs.

Hi ywh & Calmnit,

I know the initial adopters of professional timelapse always advocate everything to be manual and their workflow usually is to use LRtimelapse to overcome the flickering.

However of late, I have seen more and more of professional using Aperture Priority mode to shoot as well as auto ISO. One such professional photograpaher is Corey Rich. See his video here:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DhA65H4vcp0

See 2:10 onwards, where he recommend Aperture priority mode and auto ISO

I think the intention is to show how easily a timelapse video can be achieved from Lumix camera.

Any other settings I missed out, please let me know. Thanks

Thanks

 

[RyanKhoo]

@ryan - hey! don't sabo me leh ... i was paying attention in class leh, u were the one keep talking =D just kidding ...

Hahaha ... lol

thanks for the notes on settings for panasonic camera

no worries lah, pettypoh ...

> btw, did you encounter flicker for your unit?

I have downloaded on the computer. But I haven't process it yet. But from the holding the arrow keys in Adobe Bridge, I can flip the sequence of raw images. From that, I cannot see any flickering

>> to remove dust spot, you can try ywh suggestion via lightroom or record a script via photoshop and do a batch-run

ok will try

@ywh - bro, u very high level already lahh =D

yalor, ywh is the pioneer of timelapse, very high level liao ...

this session is more relevant for basic users (fuss-free and no additional post-processing being the more important factors that edward was trying to show), and actually I think it's a good start for those who wish to try out some timelapse, maybe just to mix into with their holiday/travel videos for some variety into the storyline

end of the day, ownself happy can already

Yup, well done !

 

[CamInit]

Hi ywh & Calmnit,

I know the initial adopters of professional timelapse always advocate everything to be manual and their workflow usually is to use LRtimelapse to overcome the flickering.

However of late, I have seen more and more of professional using Aperture Priority mode to shoot as well as auto ISO. One such professional photograpaher is Corey Rich. See his video here:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DhA65H4vcp0

See 2:10 onwards, where he recommend Aperture priority mode and auto ISO
...

Well, they can use AP mode due to Nikon's exposure smoothing feature. As far as I know, Canon does not have such feature. In fact, it wasn't until fairly recent that Canon starts offering intervalometer settings in-camera. That's why I say timelapse is highly gear dependent. Settings and workflow that works on one platform does not necessarily work for another.

 

[RyanKhoo]

Well, they can use AP mode due to Nikon's exposure smoothing feature. As far as I know, Canon does not have such feature. In fact, it wasn't until fairly recent that Canon starts offering intervalometer settings in-camera. That's why I say timelapse is highly gear dependent. Settings and workflow that works on one platform does not necessarily work for another.

Thanks CamInit.

The primary reason why I bought the Nikon D750 was because of this Exposure smoothing feature ...

Thanks again

 

[RyanKhoo]

Hi Edward,

I have send you a PM. Please check & reply.

Thanks