Hi All, I found that there is no Nikon L37C UV filter at 67mm today, there is only Nikon 67mm protection filter (not UV coating). So I didn't buy the UV 67mm yet, what is your suggestion on the 67mm UV filter besides orginal Nikon. I was told the Kenko is better than Hoya (comparing the same grade HMC-super)? or some one prefer B+W. Appreicate for advicing your idea on the 67mm UV filter, prefer multiple coating version. Thanks.
Nikon UV filter 67mm questions?
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Hi 2100,
I guess CCD will get effect by UV (correct me if I am wrong), I try to use the Canon IXUS to take the sky during sunset, I found that my canon camera could capture some blue sky which I could not see, so I did shot twice on the spot and compare my vision and the digital camera picture. Thanks
Hi espn,
Thanks for your recommendation on the B+W MRC 010 67mm, do you know how much is it selling in Singapore? :sweat:
I was told by two friends, both of them think Kenko is better than Hoya, one is a traditional Japanese friend and the other is a Hong Kong friend. Supprise me they have the same idea. I haven't taken photo for aabout few years, so just pick up my old Nikon F801s a few months back, ever bought back the E-type focusing screen in Japan :sweatsm: I 've been looking for it for long time as can't found in Singapore and HK. :sweat:
I guess CCD will get effect by UV (correct me if I am wrong), I try to use the Canon IXUS to take the sky during sunset, I found that my canon camera could capture some blue sky which I could not see, so I did shot twice on the spot and compare my vision and the digital camera picture. Thanks
Hi espn,
Thanks for your recommendation on the B+W MRC 010 67mm, do you know how much is it selling in Singapore? :sweat:
I was told by two friends, both of them think Kenko is better than Hoya, one is a traditional Japanese friend and the other is a Hong Kong friend. Supprise me they have the same idea. I haven't taken photo for aabout few years, so just pick up my old Nikon F801s a few months back, ever bought back the E-type focusing screen in Japan :sweatsm: I 've been looking for it for long time as can't found in Singapore and HK. :sweat:
MCS said:Hi 2100,
I guess CCD will get effect by UV (correct me if I am wrong), I try to use the Canon IXUS to take the sky during sunset, I found that my canon camera could capture some blue sky which I could not see, so I did shot twice on the spot and compare my vision and the digital camera picture. Thanks
Hi, yeah, of course intrinsically CCDs are sensitive to UV as well, but they are much more sensitive to IR comparatively. If i am not wrong blacklight UV photography requires much longer exposures compared to IR photography, talking about dSLRs here. From my experience, in IR it can be around 1/20s to as long as 1s depending on your ISO/aperture settings + sunlight intensity.... If you wanna capture UV patterns on flowers and stuff, we are talking about several seconds here. And remember, dSLR bodies already have IR absorptive filter builty in and no UV filter.
of course the main grouse of UV contamination is a bluish cast in your pics, but that happens when you are shooting at high altitude where there is much much more UV. At sea level there really is very little UV, much less for your sunset pic. Probably it's just a saturation thingy or what.
Note, the bluish cast refers to the whole pic having the cast, not just a part of it like the shadows (you see, the sky is also blue, if it's not illuminated by the sun directly then of course it looks blue. And not forgetting of course, modern multi-coated lenses filter off most of the shortwave UV. I have not seen a monocoated (say, pinkish only) lens even on a very budget lens (though i must admit i have not touched stuff like Vivitar before
).Incidentally, if you are obssessed with blocking UV, i have come across a good reputable website showing a spectrophotometer transmission plot whereby a Hoya is better in filtering longer wave UV than the expensive B+W. So doesn't mean more $$$ means better performance.
I usually don't recommend expensive filters like B+W but well, they do clean a lot easier than the Hoya HMC and SHMC ones. On the other hand, I don't think anyone can tell a picture shot through a B+W from one shot through a Hoya.Gymrat76 said:67mm B+W should cost in the region of $60. Don't bother about the other brands, which is better and such, just get B+W and you'll know you have the best
GYR
Wouldn't suggest getting the cheapo $10 ones tho. B+W is probably a good choice but overpriced.
Regards
CK
ckiang said:
I thought the Hoya HMC and Super HMC were hard to clean too - since any touch would leave funny colours on the multi-coat, but the lens pen works really well cleaning these filters - have no problems in cleaning since I started using it.
adrian26 said:
Lens pen is a tool for cleaning optical instruments - like lenses etc. Most camera stores sell them for about S$10 a piece. See www.lenspen.com for a description of the product.
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