Nikon D7100 Images


Aug 22, 2006
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#1
This thread is opened for D7100 users who would like to share their images be it processed or out of the camera. Kindly advise the lens and settings used on each of the image so that others can benefit and learn something from it. Also advise if any post processing was done on the image.



Nikkor 16-85mm > 85mm 1/800s f5.6 ISO800
Notice the vignetting on the corners.



Nikkor 16-85mm > 85mm 1/800s f5.6 ISO800
Edited in lightroom with "Enable Profile Correction". Notice how the vignette was removed.



Nikkor 16-85mm > 85mm 1/800s f5.6 ISO800
Considering the amount of cropped done to this pic, I guess the noise is bearable.
 

Aug 22, 2006
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#2
Really love my nifty 50.

When I was about to upload my photos, I notice that my shutter speed is actually quite fast. Am I right to say that in this case, I can actually reduce my ISO to achieve lesser noise but still sharp image since I can afford to reduce the shutter.

Edited in Lightroom.



#01 - Nikkor 50mm f1.8 > 1/320s f1.8 ISO3200


#02 - Nikkor 50mm f1.8 > 1/800s f1.8 ISO3200
 

Last edited:
Jun 2, 2012
823
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18
Singapore when back at home
#3
Yes, if you don't need a fast shutter speed to freeze the subjects movement or to prevent camera shake, you can always drop the shutter speed for a lower ISO sensitivity to have lower noise & also a better dynamic range in your images.

To have better control of your camera try shooting in manual mode where you have full control of the shutter speed & aperture value but set the camera to automatically control the ISO sensitivity.

Also you can set the camera to display the ISO value in the viewfinder if you need to know what is the ISO value selected by the camera before you take the shot.
 

Last edited:

Luminare

Senior Member
May 25, 2012
896
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#4
What You can also do is to spot or center weight meter on the vendor uncle's face and check the shutter speed. If its above 1/200sec, you can lower your shutter speed. I do not know if D7100 have the auto ISO function. If it has, you can set the upper limit of the ISO you are comfortable with, say, ISO 2000 and leave the NR as normal or off if you are shooting RAW

Really love my nifty 50.

When I was about to upload my photos, I notice that my shutter speed is actually quite fast. Am I right to say that in this case, I can actually reduce my ISO to achieve lesser noise but still sharp image since I can afford to reduce the shutter.

Edited in Lightroom.



#01 - Nikkor 50mm f1.8 > 1/320s f1.8 ISO3200


#02 - Nikkor 50mm f1.8 > 1/8000s f1.8 ISO3200
 

Blur Shadow

Senior Member
Sep 17, 2005
4,886
4
0
#5
You can definitely reduce your ISO for Pic #2 of your ice-cream man. 1/8000s is the limit of your Nikon D7100.

If I were you, I'd drop my ISO by at least 1 stop and stop down the aperture just a little.
 

Aug 22, 2006
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#6
Yes, if you don't need a fast shutter speed to freeze the subjects movement or to prevent camera shake, you can always drop the shutter speed for a lower ISO sensitivity to have lower noise & also a better dynamic range in your images.

To have better control of your camera try shooting in manual mode where you have full control of the shutter speed & aperture value but set the camera to automatically control the ISO sensitivity.

Also you can set the camera to display the ISO value in the viewfinder if you need to know what is the ISO value selected by the camera before you take the shot.
I guess it's better to use manual like you said to get better control over shutter speed so as to reduce the ISO number. My camera do already have the ISO value shown in the view finder when I shoot. Thank you for the advice.
 

Aug 22, 2006
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#7
I seem to set my Auto ISO to 3200 if I use it if I am not wrong. Any reason why leave the NR as normal or off instead of high? Lose details?

What You can also do is to spot or center weight meter on the vendor uncle's face and check the shutter speed. If its above 1/200sec, you can lower your shutter speed. I do not know if D7100 have the auto ISO function. If it has, you can set the upper limit of the ISO you are comfortable with, say, ISO 2000 and leave the NR as normal or off if you are shooting RAW
 

Aug 22, 2006
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#8
My aperture is already at it's lowest of f1.8. Shutter speed is 1/800s. I noted wrongly as 1/8000s previously. Really need to practise more so that it becomes second nature with all the settings. Will note to use lowest ISO possible in future. Thanks.

You can definitely reduce your ISO for Pic #2 of your ice-cream man. 1/8000s is the limit of your Nikon D7100.

If I were you, I'd drop my ISO by at least 1 stop and stop down the aperture just a little.
 

Luminare

Senior Member
May 25, 2012
896
13
18
S'pore
#9
NR is not very useful if you shoot RAW. Plus you have LR 4.X so there is no need for in-camera NR that can slow down your shutter burst. I prefer to shoot at burst "CH" or "CL" mode as it gives more chance to capture different expressions.

Human body under normal activities can be "froze" at shutter speeds above 1/125 sec or for more conservative reasons, 1/200 sec and 1/250sec especially if I am shooting at focal lengths greater than 135mm up to 200mm.

I tend to "test water" the exposure and ISO by using Aperture priority to check the shutter speed and ISO under either spot or center weighted metering with my preferred Aperture then change to Manual mode to control DoF and shutter speed and leave ISO on Auto with a upper limit I am comfortable with regards to the noise at that level. Under conditions like that your photo, Spot metering may cause the subjects away from beyond the vendor uncle to be too dark, so it is good to experiment a little before "ambushing" the expression you are looking for.

I seem to set my Auto ISO to 3200 if I use it if I am not wrong. Any reason why leave the NR as normal or off instead of high? Lose details?
 

Aug 22, 2006
300
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#10
Hi Luminare,

Thank you very much for your explanation. Have not really explored CL and CH yet. Will take more pictures when available to and update. Cheers!


NR is not very useful if you shoot RAW. Plus you have LR 4.X so there is no need for in-camera NR that can slow down your shutter burst. I prefer to shoot at burst "CH" or "CL" mode as it gives more chance to capture different expressions.

Human body under normal activities can be "froze" at shutter speeds above 1/125 sec or for more conservative reasons, 1/200 sec and 1/250sec especially if I am shooting at focal lengths greater than 135mm up to 200mm.

I tend to "test water" the exposure and ISO by using Aperture priority to check the shutter speed and ISO under either spot or center weighted metering with my preferred Aperture then change to Manual mode to control DoF and shutter speed and leave ISO on Auto with a upper limit I am comfortable with regards to the noise at that level. Under conditions like that your photo, Spot metering may cause the subjects away from beyond the vendor uncle to be too dark, so it is good to experiment a little before "ambushing" the expression you are looking for.
 

Blur Shadow

Senior Member
Sep 17, 2005
4,886
4
0
#11
My aperture is already at it's lowest of f1.8. Shutter speed is 1/800s. I noted wrongly as 1/8000s previously. Really need to practise more so that it becomes second nature with all the settings. Will note to use lowest ISO possible in future. Thanks.
"Stopping down the aperture" means to use a smaller aperture, or a higher f-stop. In this case, I am aware that you are at your largest aperture. I would think you should stop down a little to f/2 or f/2.2 to get that little bit more sharpness, without losing that much of the bokeh.

Even at 1/800s, you can probably drop another 2 stops of ISO.
 

Luminare

Senior Member
May 25, 2012
896
13
18
S'pore
#12
Oh, one more thing.

If you learn how to use the AE lock (AE-L), you can lock the exposure and re-compose the photo to whatever other framing that you like. It is very helpful if the intensity of light varies around the same frame while needing to change the DoF away from the optimum metered exposure.

Arbitrary Example:
The optimum exposure is on the uncle's cheek and you want the DoF on the hand doing the ice cream sandwich for whatever reasons so you want to set the DoF on his hands. However, if you do this, the moment you place your focus point on his hand, the exposure changes as the metering will read the light on his hand than on his face. One method is to do AE-L on his cheek to lock then recompose the DoF on his hands.

Hi Luminare,

Thank you very much for your explanation. Have not really explored CL and CH yet. Will take more pictures when available to and update. Cheers!
 

Aug 22, 2006
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#13
I got it now. Thank you.

"Stopping down the aperture" means to use a smaller aperture, or a higher f-stop. In this case, I am aware that you are at your largest aperture. I would think you should stop down a little to f/2 or f/2.2 to get that little bit more sharpness, without losing that much of the bokeh.

Even at 1/800s, you can probably drop another 2 stops of ISO.
 

Aug 22, 2006
300
3
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#14
That means example I want to have a deep depth of field on his hand, I meter on his face for exposure because I dont want his face to be dark, and then I AE-L and recompose to his hand while increasing my aperture till his hand is sharp before taking the shot. Likewise, if I want to blur his hand then I will open wider aperture?

Thank you for your patience.

Oh, one more thing.

If you learn how to use the AE lock (AE-L), you can lock the exposure and re-compose the photo to whatever other framing that you like. It is very helpful if the intensity of light varies around the same frame while needing to change the DoF away from the optimum metered exposure.

Arbitrary Example:
The optimum exposure is on the uncle's cheek and you want the DoF on the hand doing the ice cream sandwich for whatever reasons so you want to set the DoF on his hands. However, if you do this, the moment you place your focus point on his hand, the exposure changes as the metering will read the light on his hand than on his face. One method is to do AE-L on his cheek to lock then recompose the DoF on his hands.
 

Luminare

Senior Member
May 25, 2012
896
13
18
S'pore
#15
Yes, except that if you intend to reduce the aperture for a greater DoF, your overall exposure will darken with a smaller aperture.

Hence, what you'll need to do is set the aperture to whatever DoF you want first then meter on his cheek. This will give the exposure reading based on the aperture you are using and it'll determine the shutter speed and ISO (Auto) if it is in aperture priority mode.

If you are using aperture priority, you'll need to keep an eye on the shutter speed and ensure it does not drop below the reciprocal of your focal length or as a rule of thumb 1/125 sec for such subjects which ever is faster. If it does, it could be beneficial to switch to M mode, set the aperture and shutter speed (ie. f/2.2 @ 1/125 sec, f = 50mm), meter on the cheek, check the ISO reading and the exposure to ensure that under auto ISO, the photo is not severely under (more prone) or over exposed. If all is ok, AE-L and its good to go.

Bad news is that every time you change aperture or shutter setting, because of the AE-L, the ISO (Auto) will not change and as a result, the photo might become darker or brighter depending on what you set.

It sounds a bit complicated but after some practice, it is not difficult to get a hang of. This technique is also good for landscapes.

That means example I want to have a deep depth of field on his hand, I meter on his face for exposure because I dont want his face to be dark, and then I AE-L and recompose to his hand while increasing my aperture till his hand is sharp before taking the shot. Likewise, if I want to blur his hand then I will open wider aperture?

Thank you for your patience.
 

Last edited:
Aug 22, 2006
300
3
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#16
Ok. Will post again if I have any other questions. Meanwhile, let me digest all this information and take some pictures first. Really appreciate you taking the time to explain in such great detail. Cheers?!

Yes, except that if you intend to reduce the aperture for a greater DoF, your overall exposure will darken with a smaller aperture.

Hence, what you'll need to do is set the aperture to whatever DoF you want first then meter on his cheek. This will give the exposure reading based on the aperture you are using and it'll determine the shutter speed and ISO (Auto) if it is in aperture priority mode.

If you are using aperture priority, you'll need to keep an eye on the shutter speed and ensure it does not drop below the reciprocal of your focal length or as a rule of thumb 1/125 sec for such subjects which ever is faster. If it does, it could be beneficial to switch to M mode, set the aperture and shutter speed (ie. f/2.2 @ 1/125 sec, f = 50mm), meter on the cheek, check the ISO reading and the exposure to ensure that under auto ISO, the photo is not severely under (more prone) or over exposed. If all is ok, AE-L and its good to go.

Bad news is that every time you change aperture or shutter setting, because of the AE-L, the ISO (Auto) will not change and as a result, the photo might become darker or brighter depending on what you set.

It sounds a bit complicated but after some practice, it is not difficult to get a hang of. This technique is also good for landscapes.
 

Aug 22, 2006
300
3
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#17
By the way, Light Machinery and Luminare. Are you guys using the D7100 as well? If yes, why not share some photos in this thread and keep the thread going?
 

Luminare

Senior Member
May 25, 2012
896
13
18
S'pore
#18
Hey, no need to thank. Most welcome to share. That's how I learned, from others who shared their knowledge.

Hmmm ...... I don't use the D7100 which I think is a great camera body. My landscape and pre-wedding portrait body is the D800. My night "street", sports and wildlife body is the D4. I use both for paid events.

Ok. Will post again if I have any other questions. Meanwhile, let me digest all this information and take some pictures first. Really appreciate you taking the time to explain in such great detail. Cheers?!
 

Aug 22, 2006
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#19
Cool....I have always aspired to be a photographer. Hope I can earn money with what I like doing one day so I never have to work a day.
 

Miao

Senior Member
Nov 3, 2004
1,069
1
38
#20
Cool....I have always aspired to be a photographer. Hope I can earn money with what I like doing one day so I never have to work a day.
U will realise to achieve it, u will be working many times harder than working in a company.
 

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