nights out with A70


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denniskee

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Oct 26, 2003
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went shooting last night alone, arm with my brother's A70 w/o tripod. wanted to see if it can give the same feeling as shooting with my canonet GL17III with B&W negative.

lonely bike series
lonely_bike_1.jpg


lonely_bike_2.jpg


lonely_bike_3.jpg


all 3 photos didnt give me the flare i wanted / expect to get from my canonet.

alien
hands_over_your_head_alien.jpg


night owl
night_owl.jpg


does not feel "good", difficult to focus manually. i think i prefer shooting with my canonet.
 

I like the first one..
heh well u can PS the flare.. I think newer cameras have coating on their lens to prevent flares and internal reflections and what's not..
the last one looked nice but its slightly tilted (deliberate?)
 

All yr B&W images are too fuzzy with noise due to high ISO setting in the camera and they aren't sharp (maybe due to camera shakes with slow shutter speed?). When shooting in the night, it's best to use a tripod for stability and image sharpness. :)

I think you should stick to yr film rangefinder camera for better results. In context of shooting with B&W films, mount cam on a sturdy tripod, set to 'Bulb' for long exposure using small aperture (e.g. f/16) for great image sharpness. Use fast films of ISO 400. With small aperture, the headlight from the lamp post will create a star-burst efx. Long exposure is to bring out the shadow details but watch out for overblown highlights. Exposure timing has to be just right i.e. not too short (under-exposed) and not too long (over-exposed). You can do 3 bracket shots by playing with different apertures. So it's sort of like Shutter Priority mode. Dun bother abt light metering in a pretty dark places. With film ISO400, you can expose for abt 2-3min at 3 different apertures starting at f/8, f/11 & f/16. From the bracket results, you can compare which setting yields best result.

Go out and shoot more to find the right settings or methods to make good night pictures. Good luck mate!

P.S. Actually yr rangefinder camera is best for street photography.
 

I like the first pic too. Not bad for using a A70 for shot like this.:thumbsup:
 

Thanks for all the comments.

I find #1 and #2 shots of the bike seems very common angle, the lighting also very typical. So I decided to go low to include the Tower in the back ground.

I spend a good 1/2hr, standing and squatting, but cant find a "new" why of taking this typical shots. Whats your view, is it true that there is really no other way?:think:

I think all shot in iso400, manually focus abetween 1.5-5m, depending on my estimate, 5.4mm equivalent to 35mm on a 35mm camera . 1/30sec. f2.8. it was my intention to convert to B&W from the start.
 

slaam said:
the last one looked nice but its slightly tilted (deliberate?)

It was deliberate, I wanted to create a sense of tension (sorry, poor english, dont know how to say).

Of all the photo, i like "relativity". Dark vs bright, empty vs occupied
 

Well Dennis, it's fine to shoot typical bicycle pictures as you were trying out yr brother's digital camera. But it would be good to express what you want say to the viewers with yr pictures. :)

I'm not an arty-farty guy but here are my honest point of views on yr pictures (for yr reference only). Hope you have an opened mind to accept it.

On 'Lonely Bike Series', including the tall building on the background may seem fine but it kinda made the whole image appearance too complicated or messy. You could make things alot simple but taking the lamp post & the bicycle becuz that was what you wanna catch the viewers's attention and not let their eyes wandering elsewhere. At this point you did quite a good job in burning the 4 edges, but the lights from the tall building just spoilt the whole mood of the picture. As for the best angle and composition, that's up to your personal "art of seeing" view/taste. Most importantly you MUST know what you want to say to the viewers abt yr pictures. Photography is all abt self expression and visual communication. As the saying goes 'A picture speaks a thousand words.' Therefore you MUST express it clearly. You gotta feel it from the bottom of yr heart to create yr own pictures with yr own unique style. That's what I called originality. :)

'Alien' & 'Night Owl' do not work for me. They are just merely patterns & snap shots even though it shows yr good imagination on the way u see them.

'Relativity' is out for me too. As you deliberately composed and shot in that manner, you missed out the main subject focus which is too obscured in the dark with merely the highlight showing on the sculpture head and shoulder. I dun see or feel any tension at all. Too cluttered & messy with all those background lights from the surrounding buildings and the symetrical lilnes on the floor. Personally I think, to take sculpture pictures, always keep it simple or abstract and of cuz to choose the best angle and make possible good composition to convey what you wanna express. Same goes to 'The Magician'. Overall, these pictures are just point-n-shoot snap shots. :what:

There's the problem on shooting night pictures with a digital camera, especially a compact one. With ISO set at 400, the camera induced lotsa of noise even you used f/2.8 aperture. Maybe it's due to the camera brand & model. In the early replied thread, I mentioned abt camera shakes and it's no wonder you set yr shutter speed at 1/30sec. The best safe thing to minimize camera shakes, is to mount yr camera on a sturdy tripod and use a cable release.

As you know, nothing beats the film images over digital ones. Will love to see some of yr night photographs using films, if you have to the time to post new thread here. Cheers mate! :D
 

Mezzotint said:
As you know, nothing beats the film images over digital ones. Will love to see some of yr night photographs using films, if you have to the time to post new thread here. Cheers mate! :D

I tend to disagree, its jus that with digital alot of the workflow is not apparent to the new ones. its up to the individual to explore options and create new techniques.
if i am guessing correctly you are talking abt film's latitude being more than digital. well Negatives maybe but slides its prob abt the same.
the prob can be solved taking a high and low exposure of the picture and using photomatix to create a HDR image which covers more latitude.

noise level?
I read somewhere that sensor noise is quite consistent
and if you cover with lens cap and take a few shots and average out the 'dark' shots you will have a pixel map that is unique to ur sensor.
you can then use it to subtract from your images.

it might be more work but at least you can't complain that digital is lousier than film, it jus takes more work.
and for film some of the changes requires more work than digital as well.
 

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