Newbies - very green with photography setups
- Thread starter newbiker
- Start date
Agreed with the guys. You don't need very high shutter speed for panning shot... just some practice and you can get it.
I got this with my Sony WX-7,
Aperture: f/8
Shutter Speed: 1/160s
ISO: 100
Camera used: 7D
Aperture: f/8
Shutter speed: 1/200
ISO: 100
Camera used: 7D
Aperture: f/5.6
Shutter Speed: 1/125
ISO: 100
I got this with my Sony WX-7,
Aperture: f/8
Shutter Speed: 1/160s
ISO: 100
Camera used: 7D
Aperture: f/8
Shutter speed: 1/200
ISO: 100
Camera used: 7D
Aperture: f/5.6
Shutter Speed: 1/125
ISO: 100
Last edited:
re-reading this thread, it appears that some of the members are posting inaccurate information.
for panning, you don't need fast shutter speeds.
you only require fast shutter speeds when you want to freeze the motion of the entire moving object. for panning, you want to FREEZE parts, while blurring others, to create a sense of motion.
and then, the shutter speed required for panning also varies with the speed of the moving object. you can use 1/30 or 1/60 to pan a sprinter. but you might need 1/100 to pan a moving car. now, you also need to remember that the car also moves on a "Y" axis, not just an "X" axis due to the suspension. also when going around corners, the car might move out of the DOF (if you're using MF to pre-focus and not C-AF)
and lastly, the best way to get a good shot is to release the shutter when the object is perpendicular to the camera, and follow through at the same speed.
Here's an article for the TS to read:
Car Photography Tutorials - Make panning shots like a pro
for panning, you don't need fast shutter speeds.
you only require fast shutter speeds when you want to freeze the motion of the entire moving object. for panning, you want to FREEZE parts, while blurring others, to create a sense of motion.
and then, the shutter speed required for panning also varies with the speed of the moving object. you can use 1/30 or 1/60 to pan a sprinter. but you might need 1/100 to pan a moving car. now, you also need to remember that the car also moves on a "Y" axis, not just an "X" axis due to the suspension. also when going around corners, the car might move out of the DOF (if you're using MF to pre-focus and not C-AF)
and lastly, the best way to get a good shot is to release the shutter when the object is perpendicular to the camera, and follow through at the same speed.
Here's an article for the TS to read:
Car Photography Tutorials - Make panning shots like a pro
Here is a good video to show you how it is done. By our very own Willy Foo!
[video=youtube;TiYAHIwwuOw]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TiYAHIwwuOw[/video]
[video=youtube;TiYAHIwwuOw]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TiYAHIwwuOw[/video]
TS, you need to read up a bit to understand on camera settings as well as your camera manual to know what it is able to do.
For your shots, 1/50 is doable if you plan to do a panned shot (ie. taking the shot while keeping the car within the viewfinder/LCD)
Your other problem is focus. Your XS1 may not be focusing fast enough to react to the fast moving RC car.
To get over that, you can try to prefocus.
An example of that will be to anticipate that the car will cross over a particular part of the track, so just focus there, wait for the car to reach and do the panned shot.
This works with a faster shutter speed for non-panned shots too.
Gd luck
For your shots, 1/50 is doable if you plan to do a panned shot (ie. taking the shot while keeping the car within the viewfinder/LCD)
Your other problem is focus. Your XS1 may not be focusing fast enough to react to the fast moving RC car.
To get over that, you can try to prefocus.
An example of that will be to anticipate that the car will cross over a particular part of the track, so just focus there, wait for the car to reach and do the panned shot.
This works with a faster shutter speed for non-panned shots too.
Gd luck
The very best photo photographic camera may have picture questing and face recognition plus red-colored eye decrease. Your photo photographic camera should include the very least one-year confidence having a client support located inside your specific country. Your photo photographic camera will need enough mp so that you can think outside the box and increase the images if needed without dropping the conventional.
newbiker said:Hi,
I'm just gotten into the hobby of photography and got myself X-S1. Initially, wanted a Nikon 5100 but taken aback by the cost of the wide range of lens when at the shop. Hence, the X-S1.
Now starting to wonder if I've made the right choice of camera.....
Read up magazines and try it out myself on several settings.... below are two photos ... please give me advice.
Have read post on panning shots but can't seem to get it right...
Thanks.
Hi bro,
I'm a beginner but here is what i think. From the pictures I think u r shooting from elevated angle? I think panning effect will not be visible since u capture the car and the road from higher angle. From my understanding, it's better that u r parallel, same height as the subject so the blurry background can be seen. The shutter speed to be used is for u to test out and hv fun with. Good luck.
Utter nonsense. Just use your eyes, there are composition opportunities everywhere. It would be ridiculous to limit yourself that way. Explore, and you will get shots others did not get because they limited themselves too much.
Last edited:
Even more rubbish. Stop using your gear as a crutch. What's the relevance of client support for asking how to do a panning shot? How will face recognition and red eye reduction help in car panning shots? And higher MP are also totally unnecessary.
Please at least try to have an inkling of photography before you post, instead of proclaiming yourself as a gearhead who links everything to gear/brand.
oracle0711
Senior Member
OMG! What is "picture questing", define "one-year confidence" and how does enough mp (i read it as "megapixel") whether enough or not enough has to do with "think outside the box" when it is the human that does the thinking and not the camera? And I make no sense of the words "increase the images if needed without dropping the conventional" - what is the conventional wisdom in this statement?
Rashkae said:
Rashkae said:
Always nice hearing from you Rashkae bro. Definitely makes me a happier reader on clubsnap.
Always nice hearing from you Rashkae bro. Definitely makes me a happier reader on clubsnap.
I aim to please.
What i got from Google Translate. can anyone advise if it's the same and more coherent? :bsmilie:
I will try to translate from the block of Chinese characters,
what was written was something like,
"The best camera might have face detection and (not sure what the hell is a picture requesting). Your camera should include 1 year warranty (thus giving you 1 year confidence in using the hardware without worrying) in your country. Your camera must have enough MP so that you could think out of the box and get more in your frame without giving up on the conventional needs - which basically mean, you can fit more in a frame then crop it to the composition you want."
From those things mentioned, I would say that all older generation camera, professional cameras and rangefinders are not best cameras... total misinformation for newbies. A good photographer could get great pictures with incredible composition even with a 8MP or even 6MP camera. and most camera brands came with at least 1 year of warranty from the country you buy it from, some even have international warranty (I think Olympus and Panasonic had it).
So that paragraph are like what Rashae had said... total and utter nonsense.
wow, nice effort with the translation....at least it sounds more sensible now (sensible as in it sounds coherent)....
but still....the statement is totally misleading....
anyway....i think this thread has deviated quite abit from TS's original question....
so it just proves that the member who posted can't understand english but tried to use google translate to communicate with us :bsmilie:
TS, your problem is the subject. The R/C car is so small and fast, it might not be as simple as panning a moving taxi on the street.
Slow shutter speed is ok. The more you drag the shutter, the more speed blur you get. Some pro can go 1/8s for sibei blur night street panning which turns out really nice. There is this book that teaches some pretty decent beginner panning technique...IIRC the title is "Understanding exposure"..
Suggest you try to pan the traffic in neighbour hood street. Adjust aperture to allow for 1/50s shutter speed. Then use slow burst rate around 3-5fps. Keeper rate will be low, but should get some good ones. At least it is digital, so every photo is foc.
Slow shutter speed is ok. The more you drag the shutter, the more speed blur you get. Some pro can go 1/8s for sibei blur night street panning which turns out really nice. There is this book that teaches some pretty decent beginner panning technique...IIRC the title is "Understanding exposure"..
Suggest you try to pan the traffic in neighbour hood street. Adjust aperture to allow for 1/50s shutter speed. Then use slow burst rate around 3-5fps. Keeper rate will be low, but should get some good ones. At least it is digital, so every photo is foc.
Similar threads
