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As much as getting the exposure right, it as important for you to consider what you include in your photos. Subjects, composition, angle of view, etc.
Ask yourself before you press the button, what do you think is interesting in your scenes? How can I show it? What to include and what to exclude. A good photo doesn't necessary have to show everything.
As for the moon shot, it looks blur so you loose the sueface details.
Ask yourself before you press the button, what do you think is interesting in your scenes? How can I show it? What to include and what to exclude. A good photo doesn't necessary have to show everything.
As for the moon shot, it looks blur so you loose the sueface details.
Originally posted by Wolfgang
Noted.
Right now, i'm trying to get the technicalitues right first. As soon as i master them, i will start moving onto consideration of scenes and such. However, your advice is very much appreciated.
Any idea how to have the image of the moon sharper?
Kindly advise.
Noted.
Right now, i'm trying to get the technicalitues right first. As soon as i master them, i will start moving onto consideration of scenes and such. However, your advice is very much appreciated. Any idea how to have the image of the moon sharper?
Kindly advise.
Why wait? You can produce good images while still learning on the technical stuff. There is no end to learning anything in photography, let along master. If you wait until you master something before moving to something else, then that something else will not come. I think compositional skills are obtained by training yourself to look harder into a scene, think twice or trice before you shoot. All these can be done while you're learning the techniques. Good techniques and compositional skills come hand in hand and you can't do without one or other.
As for the moon shot, I can't really give you much advice as I'm not really into that. But were you using a tripod?
the 2nd pic, maybe you can change the WB to reduce that orangy-cast, but it's a personal preference thing, some people find it more realistic to have an orangy-cast.
the moon pic, yes there is noise, the red and green colours on the moon surface are noises. The pic is not sharp because you were using full 27x zoom, means you engaged digital zoom as well.
Oh yah, using spot-metering is also a good tip for moon shots.
the moon pic, yes there is noise, the red and green colours on the moon surface are noises. The pic is not sharp because you were using full 27x zoom, means you engaged digital zoom as well.
Oh yah, using spot-metering is also a good tip for moon shots.
Originally posted by Wolfgang
So the best way to reduce the blur-ness is to not engage the digital zoom?
So the best way to reduce the blur-ness is to not engage the digital zoom?
Right right... *nods* I get it now.
Erm.. wait.. Question.
In the A/S/M mode (which i have selected M to shoot all these pictures), does it mean i still have to manual focus?
And in A/S/M, the digital zoom can be activated meh?
Kindly advice.
Paiseh hor, i seem to have alot of question.
Please bear with me.
Thank you.
Erm.. wait.. Question.
In the A/S/M mode (which i have selected M to shoot all these pictures), does it mean i still have to manual focus?
And in A/S/M, the digital zoom can be activated meh?
Kindly advice.
Paiseh hor, i seem to have alot of question.
Please bear with me.
Thank you.
Originally posted by Wolfgang
In the A/S/M mode (which i have selected M to shoot all these pictures), does it mean i still have to manual focus?
And in A/S/M, the digital zoom can be activated meh?
In the A/S/M mode (which i have selected M to shoot all these pictures), does it mean i still have to manual focus?
And in A/S/M, the digital zoom can be activated meh?
For the c700uz, the times when manual focus should be used is in dim lighting conditions, when the contrast-detection system cannot determine a good focus. For nightshots especially, sometimes it can be too dark for the cam to get a good focus. If all the subjects are very very far away, I usually will manual focus to infinity. Other than that, in normal lightings, the focus is usually spot on. Even if focus is off, releasing the shutter half-press then half-pressing again can usually get me a correct focus.
Digital zoom can be activated and deactivated in all modes (maybe except movie mode). I activate it all the time, but when zooming in, I ensure the zoom ruler doesn't get into the red colour range, which is the digital zoom range.
wolfgang, I'll send you a PM regarding my bank account, please transfer the consultation fees over asap.
Just kidding.Here's a pix of the full moon in January this year in black & white.....
Mode: Manual
Focus: Infinity
Aperture: F5.0
Shutter: 1/800 sec
Focal length: 1026mm (with digi-zoom)
WB: Auto (not applicable actually...)
ISO: 100
Resize from 1600x1200 to 800x600.
Pix taken hand-held with Image Stabilizer on.
Wolfie remember that at full digi-zoom the focal length is 1000+ mm, any minute hand movement will produce blurry pix. Use the fastest shutter speed if u aren't using a tripod.
Also, since the moon is so bright, using ESP metering will get over-exposed pix....using spot metering instead.
By the way, at less than 1 sec ur CCD should not have that much noise, u set ur ISO to AUTO is it? Higher ISO produces more CCD noise.
Mode: Manual
Focus: Infinity
Aperture: F5.0
Shutter: 1/800 sec
Focal length: 1026mm (with digi-zoom)
WB: Auto (not applicable actually...)
ISO: 100
Resize from 1600x1200 to 800x600.
Pix taken hand-held with Image Stabilizer on.
Wolfie remember that at full digi-zoom the focal length is 1000+ mm, any minute hand movement will produce blurry pix. Use the fastest shutter speed if u aren't using a tripod.
Also, since the moon is so bright, using ESP metering will get over-exposed pix....using spot metering instead.
By the way, at less than 1 sec ur CCD should not have that much noise, u set ur ISO to AUTO is it? Higher ISO produces more CCD noise.
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