new to film! just bought a nikon fm, few qns! thx


jaimesonn

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Oct 18, 2007
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#1
yeap just bought a nikon fm like a week ago, so there's a few qns i wanna ask..

recently bought a roll of b/w film and the first two shots are considered blank right? cos already exposed then after that the count on the camera will show to '1'. but after taking a few shots, i went to rewind the film back to the maximum, so now i dont whether the next few shots im taking will not be counted is it? as in blank shots

and also, i bought a 400iso film but the shots of the b/w roll iso was varied, some i take iso 400, some 200 some 100, so guess the shots from iso diff of 400 will be spoil?

and can a d80 kit lens be use on nikon fm?

thx all those who are willin to help! cheers:thumbsup:
 

ZerocoolAstra

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Mar 13, 2008
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#2
why would you want to rewind the film before using it all up?

On the FM, setting the 'ISO' value simply affects your light meter readout. Eg if you have ISO 400 film inside, and set the ISO value on the dial to 200, all your shots will be metered to overexpose by 1 stop.
D80 kit lens cannot be used on film SLR, and in particular this one, because there is no aperture ring. Also the image circle cannot cover the 35mm film window.
 

redaction

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Jan 20, 2010
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#4
the iso you select on the camera should be the same as the iso on the film you're using, else you'll just mess up your exposure/lightmeter readings. your iso is fixed and cannot be changed unless you change film, not like in digital when you can just change iso whenever you feel like it.

after you load the film, there are two dots on the frame counter before the '1'. those should be your two exposed frames before your first proper frame, so if you've loaded it correctly, advance by two frames and you should get a '1' displayed on the counter and you're ready to go.

don't wind back in until you're done with the roll. i'm not too sure how you can salvage what you've already done.

i think you will be able to mount the d80 kit lens (i've managed to safely mount a dx nikkor 75-200 onto a fm3a before), but you'll have no control over aperture and you'll face serious vignetting. ie, don't do it.

i do use sometimes use a sony DT uwa lens (the SAL1118) on a minolta dynax slr though, just have to be careful to make sure that the image circle covers more than the 35mm film window.
 

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Sep 4, 2010
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#5
lol, the reason i winded up halfway when i started film again was cos so long nvr touch....i wasnt sure if i loaded properly or not...lol...

But then erm....if i nvr rmb wrongly, last time when i played with film rolls, to get the film out again after fully winded back (by hand) its like having to take out the whole roll of film then realign it or something like that...cant rmb, too long already....that was my then instructors unwanted film....maybe someone else can clarify on this point, how to open a roll of film, lol.

but when u do that in daylight and not darkroom environment, it will expose all your film already?? Learnt that the hard way when I was still a child, accidentally open the film cover of my mom's camera cos playing then ask her how, all the pictures taken were gone....:sweat:

Lens selection is another problem when playing with older film cameras...no aperture ring...maybe TS can find those used 35-70 or 70-210 equivalent or prime lens around pennisula plaza, alot of shops there selling good, old, used lens for very decent prices...right now, i thinking of getting D lens more than G lens, reason being there's aperture ring, and it AF with most DSLRS these days =) (optics wise...shouldnt deviate that far...heyys, an old 50/1.2 can outperform modern lens....i dunno wat to say sia...lol)

Or u can consider the new samyang lens as well, korean made, with aperture ring, but manual focus only, not that our FM/FE have AF anw, lol! Quality i feel is above and beyond their justified price already.
 

jaimesonn

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#6
after my first 3 shots, i accidentally turn the knob without lifting the silver lid, i turned it 1 full round so after that i rewind it to the max to make sure its back properly but i forgot that the first 2 shots were the exposed one, so now i got no idea on the film.. a film noob here, thanks for the reply tho
 

Sep 4, 2010
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#7
anything taken be4 the number "1" is ok cos nothing captured there anw, if "1" and "2" are exposed already, after u load back the film, just cover up the lens or body so its dark inside then just shoot until its "3" now. Open ur lens cover, good to go...lol

simple film technology, think simple...lol
 

daredevil123

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Oct 25, 2005
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#8
winded up the film after a few shots?

No need to open up the film canister. You can use a film extractor to extract the edge out again. and reload the film. Then lens cap on and fire off the number of shots you shot before. Add around 1-2 frames more of black just to be sure. And you are good to go again.

What is a film extractor you might ask? This...
 

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fatigue

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#9
It's quite difficult to get a film extractor these days. If you can get, it will cost more than your film. And besides, you also need to practice how to use the tool.

The best option is to request your printing lab to extract the film for you.
It only takes a few seconds to do that
 

jaimesonn

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#10
alright guys! thanks alot, i think i understood ready, so now i have already took out the film, so what i need now is a film extractor then load back the film, and then shoot the amount of shots i have already taken right?
 

daredevil123

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#11
It's quite difficult to get a film extractor these days. If you can get, it will cost more than your film. And besides, you also need to practice how to use the tool.

The best option is to request your printing lab to extract the film for you.
It only takes a few seconds to do that
I think my dad still have a couple of those lying around. Easy to get in china though.
 

Sep 4, 2010
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#12
yupps, the other way to extract the film out by urself (but the film must not have winded all the way back already), is to turn until u feel the loss in tension. It easier to do during the starting few shots. Just slowly turn until u feel a pop inside and there's no more tension, then wind back a little bit more to be safe, open the cover slowly and check from the side of the camera to make sure its winded up enough to not expose ur film, but out enough to load again
 

jaimesonn

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#14
oh ya and i wanna ask another qns, when i already got the negatives of the film, can i just use any scanner to scan the negatives? how does the thing work? will the picture in the computer be in negatives or what? thx again!
 

Sep 4, 2010
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#15
there is a dedicated film scanner to scan negatives to computers, not sure how much it costs but should quite pricey cos special item...

recommendation is to print out, like 4r glossy like that, immediately can check ur shots, (admire them also) and see quality ok or not. later then scan in like normal photo in normal scanner, the cheaper alternative in the short run...

the idea of film to people sometimes is the anticipation of their printed film. The feeling of "finally ready" and everything comes out ok or better. lol
 

jaimesonn

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#16
haha true2, the anticipation of the results, whether its ok or better then expected and if the photo i want most turns out to be jia lat, haiyo sian but nvm just learn from it and move on i guess.

for the film scanner, i was told by Ruby photo that i can use any scanner to scan the negatives? any one got any idea on this? i own this printer, a hp psc 1210

http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/...dlc=en&cc=us&site=null&key=null&product=90764
 

agws1970

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#17
haha true2, the anticipation of the results, whether its ok or better then expected and if the photo i want most turns out to be jia lat, haiyo sian but nvm just learn from it and move on i guess.

for the film scanner, i was told by Ruby photo that i can use any scanner to scan the negatives? any one got any idea on this? i own this printer, a hp psc 1210

http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/...dlc=en&cc=us&site=null&key=null&product=90764
Whoever told you that must have been smoking some serious **** and high on it.

If you wish to scan negs, you will need a scanner with a built in Trans adapter and the required software.

What the TA does is to shine light from behind the negs and allow the platen based scanner to capture the image.

In the past. most UMAX can do it, not sure about now.

IIIRC some developing studios have a service to scan to CD at a good price.
 

daredevil123

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#18
Whoever told you that must have been smoking some serious **** and high on it.

If you wish to scan negs, you will need a scanner with a built in Trans adapter and the required software.

What the TA does is to shine light from behind the negs and allow the platen based scanner to capture the image.

In the past. most UMAX can do it, not sure about now.

IIIRC some developing studios have a service to scan to CD at a good price.
That's right.

I am using an old Canon Pixma MP800 to do my prints and scan negatives... It comes with a TA and software.

The problem is that the TA will only fit 35mm film and slides. Even with double 35mm frame from XPAN will not scan properly. For that I had to use Vuescan software to get the double frames scanned in correctly, after spending quite a bit of time and trial and error in setting the scan sizes.
 

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coolthought

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Jun 23, 2008
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#19
One thing I don't really understand. Probably won't. Why buy a film slr, capture image in film, develop it and scan the film into the computer and store it in the hard disk??

Wouldn't it be more simpler to buy a dslr and upload the image straight into the hard disk? Isn't this less painful? To me it is like asking why walk up the stairs when you can take the lift straight to the floor you are going.
 

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coolthought

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