New 60D user...
- Thread starter tan280
- Start date
Hi all forumers,
Just bought the Canon EOS 60D Kit II (18-135mm) from Cathay Photo yesterday and manage to snap a few shots but seems weird la. Hope to meet up soon with senior/season photographers.
Welcome to CS
and whar do you mean by weird?
Hi and welcome to CS tan280
and yes, I am interested to know what's weird with your 60D and 18-135 too
and yes, I am interested to know what's weird with your 60D and 18-135 too
Hi and thanks for the welcomne note. As for the weird pics I took some of them are simply get blurred out as I using a Macro f/1.2L USM lens and also when I use the program mode with Auto ISO the pics is not very sharp. LIke I what I am, a newbie shot. So I hope to have guidance. C&C welcome. I will post some and please give comments. Anyway I will attend the training lab provided by Canon and learn the basics of photography.
Hi all forumers,
Just bought the Canon EOS 60D Kit II (18-135mm) from Cathay Photo yesterday and manage to snap a few shots but seems weird la. Hope to meet up soon with senior/season photographers.
60D nice. Enjoy!
New and you got a f1.2L ?!?! :bigeyes:
Its because of shallow DOF, thats why you find your pictures blurred.
Its because of shallow DOF, thats why you find your pictures blurred.
Hmmm... I don't think canon has a f1.2L macro lens leh... do you mean the 50mm f1.2L?
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hahaha guys cool it. Don't get clouded by gear envy
TS, am confused what lens you are referring to now. Is it the 18-135 or some f/1.2L macro lens (????) ?
Anyway, a picture will speak a thousand words.
TS, am confused what lens you are referring to now. Is it the 18-135 or some f/1.2L macro lens (????) ?
Anyway, a picture will speak a thousand words.
Yes is a 50mm f/1.2L lens.. anyway I just rent it from Camera rental centre and try out some macro shooting...
Hi all forumers,
Just bought the Canon EOS 60D Kit II (18-135mm) from Cathay Photo yesterday and manage to snap a few shots but seems weird la. Hope to meet up soon with senior/season photographers.
how much u paid? i'm looking to buy this.
thanks
to shoot macro, ie bugs, bump the aperture to F11-F16 to get sharper pics with more Depth of Field.
Shutter to set to 1/160 and flash maybe +1ev and see how to works out...
fyi, diy your own popup flash diffuser if u are using the camera built in flash..
Shutter to set to 1/160 and flash maybe +1ev and see how to works out...
fyi, diy your own popup flash diffuser if u are using the camera built in flash..
Ok tks farbird for the tips but I still dont understand. Anyway test and error for me. I will join the newbie's outing once I am available to learn more tactics and stances.
Peter
I am not very experienced in DSLR but I think I can speak newbie language (pros please don't mind me please).
Aperture (the opening that allows light to fall on the sensor aka "digital film") size is proportional to focal length divided by a number, i.e. f/#. In your case it is f/1.2 or 50/1.2. Since the # is the denominator, larger # means smaller opening.
If you remember the pinhole camera in primary school science, a bigger pinhole allows more light in, but things in the distance will be blurred. It is the same in a camera. A bigger aperture (your f/1.2 for example) allows more light in, thus reducing the time needed (high shutter speed, less prone to hand shake). But the tradeoff is a shallower depth of field. Meaning, the only sharp thing will be the person / object in focus. Other things like the background in the distance will be blurred.
Try taking pictures of the same object (with background in a distance) using different f/#. At f/1.2 the background will be very blur. Now switch your camera to Av and set the aperture to f/8.0. Take the same picture again. The background will be much clearer. But to allow the same amount of light to enter through the smaller opening, the shutter needs to be open longer. So if you try this at night you need a very steady hand so that camera shake will not affect your results.
Aperture (the opening that allows light to fall on the sensor aka "digital film") size is proportional to focal length divided by a number, i.e. f/#. In your case it is f/1.2 or 50/1.2. Since the # is the denominator, larger # means smaller opening.
If you remember the pinhole camera in primary school science, a bigger pinhole allows more light in, but things in the distance will be blurred. It is the same in a camera. A bigger aperture (your f/1.2 for example) allows more light in, thus reducing the time needed (high shutter speed, less prone to hand shake). But the tradeoff is a shallower depth of field. Meaning, the only sharp thing will be the person / object in focus. Other things like the background in the distance will be blurred.
Try taking pictures of the same object (with background in a distance) using different f/#. At f/1.2 the background will be very blur. Now switch your camera to Av and set the aperture to f/8.0. Take the same picture again. The background will be much clearer. But to allow the same amount of light to enter through the smaller opening, the shutter needs to be open longer. So if you try this at night you need a very steady hand so that camera shake will not affect your results.
Welcome to CS. ^^ :devil:
You are encourage to read more online, and join some newbie outings under the Outings subforum.
Good start here:
Camera basics
http://www.clubsnap.com/forums/showthread.php?t=309544
http://www.digital-photography-school.com/learning-exposure-in-digital-photography
Composition
http://www.amateursnapper.com/photog...position-rules
http://digital-photography-school.co...mposition-tips
http://www.digital-photography-school.com/10-more-quick-composition-tips-illustrated
Landscape Photography
http://www.digital-photography-school.com/11-surefire-tips-for-improving-your-landscape-photography
Hyperfocus
Street Photography
http://www.digital-photography-school.com/10-tips-for-the-aspiring-street-photographer
Basic Night Photography Tips
http://www.schoolofphotography.com/courses/free-night-photography-lesson.html#int
More topics covered here:
http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials.htm
Understanding Stops and Exposure
=================================================
Buying Guides for Newbie
=================================================
Singapore Camera equipment price guides:
http://www.clubsnap.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=124
Newbie guide to buying lenses:
http://www.dpreview.com/learn/?/Guides/lens_buying_guide_01.htm
Newbie guide to buying DSLR:
http://www.dpreview.com/learn/?/Guides/dslr_buying_guide_01.htm
You are encourage to read more online, and join some newbie outings under the Outings subforum.
Good start here:
Camera basics
http://www.clubsnap.com/forums/showthread.php?t=309544
http://www.digital-photography-school.com/learning-exposure-in-digital-photography
Composition
http://www.amateursnapper.com/photog...position-rules
http://digital-photography-school.co...mposition-tips
http://www.digital-photography-school.com/10-more-quick-composition-tips-illustrated
Landscape Photography
http://www.digital-photography-school.com/11-surefire-tips-for-improving-your-landscape-photography
Hyperfocus
Street Photography
http://www.digital-photography-school.com/10-tips-for-the-aspiring-street-photographer
Basic Night Photography Tips
http://www.schoolofphotography.com/courses/free-night-photography-lesson.html#int
More topics covered here:
http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials.htm
Understanding Stops and Exposure
=================================================
Buying Guides for Newbie
=================================================
Singapore Camera equipment price guides:
http://www.clubsnap.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=124
Newbie guide to buying lenses:
http://www.dpreview.com/learn/?/Guides/lens_buying_guide_01.htm
Newbie guide to buying DSLR:
http://www.dpreview.com/learn/?/Guides/dslr_buying_guide_01.htm
