My first outdoor shoot !!

[LightStalker]

Hi guys, as you know, there was the Singapore Street Festival going on and i was helping out with the photo taking.. Here are some of the shots i took.. I'm a real newbie so spare me abit.. But do leave a remark or comment, suggestion etc to help me with my photo taking.. i have no experience watsoever.. THANKS ALOT IN ADVANCE

#1

#2

#3

C&C are most welcomed !!!

 

[Zaknafein]

please do take note of guidelines....

"Members are only allowed to post ONE image PER week. This is to allow enough time for critiques to be written."

 

[LightStalker]

oh sorry.. let me edit this.. Thkz for the heads up Zaknafein..

 

[Zeckson Chow]

I was invited to give comments here so I shall just pen some down. I am not too much into sports or events photograhy.

The motion freeze was well done. The skateboarder looked as if he was glued onto the half pipe. Unfortunately, this was too well captured. If the intention was to freeze motion, yes. If you would like to show a bit of action adrenaline, then you need to introduce something call motion trails.

Motion trails are basically lines of faded images extending out of the elements as an indication of motion. In this case, you may consider showing the motion when the skateboarder rolls down the half pipe.

There are 2 ways to do this.

1. In the camera:
Now I personally have not tried this and I am not too sure if it works on field. I am just writing based on my limited theory knowledge. Capture the image using Shutter Priority mode. On general, a shutter speed of 1/180 should be able to freeze a motion. We want to show some trails here so choosing a speed slightly slower than this should do the trick. Try choosing 1/125 and see if it works. If not, 1/60, until you get a fairly image with motion blur enough to suggest the movement. But make sure the skateboarder is still pretty well sharp. You have to experiment it yourself and find out. I am only writing out of my mind.

2. Use photo editing software:
This sharp image of yours can be manupilated to suggest motion acitivity. Now I don't want to elaborate how to do it in the software because it will be too elaborate. Try doing some reading on it.


Another thing to note is the exposure of the picture. This is too bright. We want to see the motion but yet we want to see every detail of it too. There are some washed out highlights in the image. You can try checking the picture in your camera immediately after the shot was taken. If it is too bright, adjust either one or a combination of the following:

1. Exposure Compensation value
2. ISO value
3. Aperture size (if you are using Manual Mode, you are in Shutter Priority Mode, remember?)

Next is the colours. A little flat in my opinion. You can give the colours a little more punch by adjusting the saturation value in your photo editting software.

Good try, my friend.

 

[espn]

I was invited to give comments here so I shall just pen some down. I am not too much into sports or events photograhy.

The motion freeze was well done. The skateboarder looked as if he was glued onto the half pipe. Unfortunately, this was too well captured. If the intention was to freeze motion, yes. If you would like to show a bit of action adrenaline, then you need to introduce something call motion trails.

Motion trails are basically lines of faded images extending out of the elements as an indication of motion. In this case, you may consider showing the motion when the skateboarder rolls down the half pipe.

There are 2 ways to do this.

1. In the camera:
Now I personally have not tried this and I am not too sure if it works on field. I am just writing based on my limited theory knowledge. Capture the image using Shutter Priority mode. On general, a shutter speed of 1/180 should be able to freeze a motion. We want to show some trails here so choosing a speed slightly slower than this should do the trick. Try choosing 1/125 and see if it works. If not, 1/60, until you get a fairly image with motion blur enough to suggest the movement. But make sure the skateboarder is still pretty well sharp. You have to experiment it yourself and find out. I am only writing out of my mind.

2. Use photo editing software:
This sharp image of yours can be manupilated to suggest motion acitivity. Now I don't want to elaborate how to do it in the software because it will be too elaborate. Try doing some reading on it.


Another thing to note is the exposure of the picture. This is too bright. We want to see the motion but yet we want to see every detail of it too. There are some washed out highlights in the image. You can try checking the picture in your camera immediately after the shot was taken. If it is too bright, adjust either one or a combination of the following:

1. Exposure Compensation value
2. ISO value
3. Aperture size (if you are using Manual Mode, you are in Shutter Priority Mode, remember?)

Next is the colours. A little flat in my opinion. You can give the colours a little more punch by adjusting the saturation value in your photo editting software.

Good try, my friend.

Wah.. a new PRO has risen from the north :thumbsup:

 

[foxtwo]

Gradually learn to use and trust both your camera's metering and your own metering instincts. I strongly advise against checking your picture in preview as
1. the lcd is smaller and less accurate
2. the lcd is brighter than the actual picture
3. you shouldn't be wasting time checking when you should be triggering that shutter, you can learn from your mistakes infront of the computer later. check the exif to learn what went wrong.
And Photoshop, sure it's useful but hardly something to bother yourself with right now. Shoot behind the camera, not the computer.

As to your signature, there is no stupidity, only laziness. And that's not forgivable.

 

[devilsjaw]

Hey... You Were There Too? I Was There Snappin Photos Too...

 

[PointBlue]

Hi LightStalker!

Glaring overexposure is immediately the first thing I saw in this shot. Usually, when shots look like that, it's an instantaneous delete.

It's wise to practice on your exposure skills, and the only way to do so is to learn the technical as well as practical aspects of how a camera works. Do ask around in the 'Newbies Corner' forum, and we'll gladly help with what we know.

It's an alright attempt for a first timer, but make sure you improve from here.

 

[LightStalker]

Hi guys.. first of all i really want to say THANK YOU !! Your comments are really appreciated !!

For starters, i was using a f5.6 at 1/1000 that day.. i couldn't shift the shutter speed lower because the sun that day was really very harsh.. It was direct sunlight, no shades, very glaring type of scenario.. What do you think i should do with this type of environment? Should i have taken it in .tiff format to edit ?? (Panasonic only has .tiff or jpeg) - this proves i need to drink coffee with pros more often :bsmilie: The maximum i could go is a f8 but that would make everything too clear, i sort of wanted a blur background, and at 1/125 the picture is white! too overexposed ! And the metering of my FZ7 went abit off, i think it was due to the harsh sunlight.. I used MF instead thinking it could counter that problem and it was so difficult moving that joystick up and down.. Please advise..

What foxtwo said is also true, my Panasonic LCD is actually brighter and more vibrant than the pictures, i've no idea why, so knowing this issue i try not to rely on my lcd after each shot.. I have much more pictures for your comments, (I'm actually keeping a log book of this ).. Will post them soon !! THanks ALL

 

[photo.cavendish]

Good try. Just take note of DOF if you can.

 

[zac08]

Hi guys.. first of all i really want to say THANK YOU !! Your comments are really appreciated !!

For starters, i was using a f5.6 at 1/1000 that day.. i couldn't shift the shutter speed lower because the sun that day was really very harsh.. It was direct sunlight, no shades, very glaring type of scenario.. What do you think i should do with this type of environment? Should i have taken it in .tiff format to edit ?? (Panasonic only has .tiff or jpeg) - this proves i need to drink coffee with pros more often :bsmilie: The maximum i could go is a f8 but that would make everything too clear, i sort of wanted a blur background, and at 1/125 the picture is white! too overexposed ! And the metering of my FZ7 went abit off, i think it was due to the harsh sunlight.. I used MF instead thinking it could counter that problem and it was so difficult moving that joystick up and down.. Please advise..

What foxtwo said is also true, my Panasonic LCD is actually brighter and more vibrant than the pictures, i've no idea why, so knowing this issue i try not to rely on my lcd after each shot.. I have much more pictures for your comments, (I'm actually keeping a log book of this ).. Will post them soon !! THanks ALL

Newbies comments..

Mebbe you could have lowered the ISO speed. And if it was at it's lowest, you could try using a ND filter.


Cheers,

 

[LightStalker]

Newbies comments..
Mebbe you could have lowered the ISO speed. And if it was at it's lowest, you could try using a ND filter.
Cheers,

Sorry, no filter. How do you lower ISO Speed? Shutter speed and ISO are 2 totally diff things.. Dont really get it.. But thanks for the C&C. I guess what you are trying to say is to lower the shutter speed right? I havent got a filter as i am still searching for one for my FZ7. But again, sunlight were really harsh that day.. will post new pics soon..

 

[foxtwo]

...
For starters, i was using a f5.6 at 1/1000 that day.. i couldn't shift the shutter speed lower because the sun that day was really very harsh.. It was direct sunlight, no shades, very glaring type of scenario.. What do you think i should do with this type of environment?

Shoot to the best of you & your camera's ability. One part of photography is knowing how to make a good photo using what's available, since it's not possible you can have every bit of equipement there is. Can't make motion trails? Try something else, there's no need to go out buying ND filters because the sun was too intense that day. How many that kind of days to shoot motion trails in are you going to face? Enough to justify a purchase?

Work on the basics first. Metering. Composition. There's plenty of time later to try out those little tricks.

...
Should i have taken it in .tiff format to edit ??

Yes. But it'll be in bigger file sizes so judge how many shots you can take with your current CF/SD card.

...
The maximum i could go is a f8 but that would make everything too clear, i sort of wanted a blur background, and at 1/125 the picture is white! too overexposed !

Blur backgrounds can be PS in later. Get everything else right first.

...
And the metering of my FZ7 went abit off, i think it was due to the harsh sunlight.. I used MF instead thinking it could counter that problem and it was so difficult moving that joystick up and down.. Please advise..

MF/AF is manual/auto focusing. Read your manual for your camera's metering options (if any).

 

[LightStalker]

Thks foxtwo for your advise, i think now its best that i concetrate more on metering, exposure etc. after heeding ur advice.. Thanks alot !

 

[LightStalker]

New Ones

 

[Zaknafein]

1st pic: good try. but over-exposed
2nd pic: some parts still over-expoesd, and ur shutter speed is probably too slow. there's some motion blur or handshake.

 

[LightStalker]

1st pic: good try. but over-exposed
2nd pic: some parts still over-expoesd, and ur shutter speed is probably too slow. there's some motion blur or handshake.

Argh ! I really need to cut down on that caffeine.. It was taken at f2.8 1/50s.. Must be the caffeine!! MUST BE IT !!

 

[metallilan]

well first of all you're lucky to have done it in broad daylight! i had to cope with the low light and crazy noise on my FZ5, but i pulled through. ( mine here : http://metallilan.multiply.com/photos/album/25)

some tips on how to max an FZ series cam, since i know most of the pro's here have spoken about the images already.

1. Work on the handshake. Try not to shake or jitter when you press the shutter, and when you release the shutter.

2. For an FZ cam, daylight is best set to f/2.8 with high speed AF (single). Or if you find it overexposing, dry under exposing or use P mode first to get a feel of what settings is the best. Do experiment with the different metering modes in the cam.

3. I think the best apertures for an FZ cam is f/2.8-f/3.3, f/4 and f/5.6 [correct me if im wrong here]

i think the pic where you mentioned taken using f/2.8 1/50 is actually ALRIGHT. as long as the person doesnt move so fast, and you dont jitter the cam, it can actually look pretty sharp. Of course, photoshop helps out.

The skateboard pic is great action shot, but i think you need to anticipate when the skate will take to the air, also best to fill the frame, instead of having unwanted elements in the background, like the photog in the bg.

 

[LightStalker]

Thx Metallilan, will take note on the things you mentioned as i've never used the FZ series before. Btw, my camera doesn't seem to be sharp. I've no idea why. Whenever i take photos, the edges seem to be blurred out. Then the images looks abit dull. Is there anyway to make the pictures look sharper with the FZ series ?? As the pictures above, they dont look sharp.. The skateboarding one especially.. Any tips??

 

[metallilan]

Thx Metallilan, will take note on the things you mentioned as i've never used the FZ series before. Btw, my camera doesn't seem to be sharp. I've no idea why. Whenever i take photos, the edges seem to be blurred out. Then the images looks abit dull. Is there anyway to make the pictures look sharper with the FZ series ?? As the pictures above, they dont look sharp.. The skateboarding one especially.. Any tips??

i agree with it not being sharp, for i myself have encountered it before. My guess is it could be because of the camera jitter, or perhaps something else i don't know yet :sweatsm:

I think the only way is to perhaps add abit of unsharp mask to your images, and perhaps tune the exposure, it should look out alright.