Mouldy Olympus OM3


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tom123

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Sep 21, 2006
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I have just discovered photography and inherited my dads old olympus om3, but its about 10 years old and it hasn't been kept in a very good condition, so mould has started to grow on either the finder prism or the mirror box.

I'm wondering if it's worth the money, or if it's even possible, to remove the mould.
 

Check the lens. as for the body, unless you want to shoot in 35mm, forget it. it would be a waste of $$$ to get it into good working condition. But the lens is a different story. If it's prime lens and the condition is not too bad, get it serviced. You can get many adapters to use it with many dSLR bodies.
 

I beg to differ, film is not dead and you can still get negs or slides scanned onto CD instead of having them printed.

OM3s are highly collectable with ordinary examples on Ebay selling for USD$500 or more. Mint ones go as high as USD$1K.

Get the thing cleaned, lubed and adjusted - it won't cost you much - $100-150SGD MAX.

Sell it if you don't want to use it. But it is one of the best camera platforms out there. The multi-spot meter is a joy to use.
 

Agree but if tom123 is starting out into photography, wouldn't a start in digital be a better direction than thru film?
 

Blu-By-U said:
Agree but if tom123 is starting out into photography, wouldn't a start in digital be a better direction than thru film?

Why so?
Before digital cameras came along, people learnt photography using film cameras.

Sure, with a digital camera you get instant feedback on your shots but shooting with film doesn't stop one from learning.

Actually, with the OM3, it might even be easier to pick things up because there is less features/gadgetry to be bogged down with. The multi-spot feature is a real good tool for learning about metering and averaging.
 

Blu-By-U, even though digital is an option, I'm not going to go for it as I really haven't got the money to by a second hand digital, let alone a brand new setup.

I'm aiming to get into skate or kite surfing photography, but I think I should just shoot all sorts of stuff to get the basics down before I actually do anything.

I'll take the camera into the repair shop and get a quote on how much it'll cost to fix tommorrow. Thanks for your advice.
 

tom123 said:
skate or kite surfing photography....
Won't you need something light,waterproof and tough for that? :bigeyes:
 

Blu-By-U said:
Agree but if tom123 is starting out into photography, wouldn't a start in digital be a better direction than thru film?

Tetrode said:
Why so?
Before digital cameras came along, people learnt photography using film cameras.

Sure, with a digital camera you get instant feedback on your shots but shooting with film doesn't stop one from learning.

I started out with a medium format Agfa Isolette, I first started in the darkroom when I was 12, and I used a fully manual SLR (no A, S, or P modes) for 20 years.

Even with that background I agree with Blu, that if you are starting out in photography it's better to go digital...not because you'll have to unlearn stuff, but because once the equipment is bought there's very little cost to taking pictures (except charging the battery).

To be candid I have learned more taking shot after shot using different settings with digital than I ever did with film, because I didn't worry about the cost of each shot.

On an outing I'd shoot 200 digital pictures, but when I shot film (in my latter years) a roll a year that would be a lot. Digital has put the enjoyment to experiment back into my photography.
 

But Tom did mention budget..it's really up to him.

and Mikefellh, blu too was bought up on a full manual SLR and for many many years. Fujica ST605 hehehe. Years after that, blu got a Pentax 35mm P&S..it was such a joy to use where out of focus shots became a thing of the past...but still expensive and like you maybe 1 ~ 2 rolls a year..unlike now, Digital!!! The last trip to Guilin, blu came back with 10Gb+ of shots!!!
 

Blu-By-U said:
Won't you need something light,waterproof and tough for that? :bigeyes:

The OM3 is light and tough but not waterproof. But neither are many dSLRs.
 

Mikefellh said:
I started out with a medium format Agfa Isolette, I first started in the darkroom when I was 12, and I used a fully manual SLR (no A, S, or P modes) for 20 years.

Even with that background I agree with Blu, that if you are starting out in photography it's better to go digital...not because you'll have to unlearn stuff, but because once the equipment is bought there's very little cost to taking pictures (except charging the battery).

To be candid I have learned more taking shot after shot using different settings with digital than I ever did with film, because I didn't worry about the cost of each shot.

On an outing I'd shoot 200 digital pictures, but when I shot film (in my latter years) a roll a year that would be a lot. Digital has put the enjoyment to experiment back into my photography.

I have to agree that is there is little ongoing cost involved with digital. Tom could still have the OM3 CLA'd and auctioned off on Ebay. However, I doubt he would get anything new(with the proceeds of the sale) that is of the same quality or the same joy to use as the OM3.
 

OM3s are highly collectable with ordinary examples on Ebay selling for USD$500 or more. Mint ones go as high as USD$1K.

KEH in the States (a big seller of used equipment) has an OM3 for $525US in "EX"cellent (80-89%) condition (it used to be $569US so it has dropped in price).

http://www.keh.com/
 

KEH in the States (a big seller of used equipment) has an OM3 for $525US in "EX"cellent (80-89%) condition (it used to be $569US so it has dropped in price).

http://www.keh.com/

Yes, I am well aware of KEH. But winning bid prices on Ebay are usually higher than what people can get from KEH for some reason (bidding frenzy perhaps). That is why Ebay is a usually good place to sell rather than buy unless it is something that isn't popular.

All the more reason to keep the OM3 and use it if prices are dropping (even on Ebay). He will have even less money for a dSLR should he sell it.
 

Blu-By-U said:
Won't you need something light,waterproof and tough for that?
You don't need a waterproof or light camera for skate or kite surfing photography.
For normal shots a kite surfing photographer would use a telephoto lens and stay on the shore with a tripod.
In skating photography, wieght isn't really a problem as a tripod can be used, but the Om-3 isn't that heavy anyway.

Mikefellh said:
On an outing I'd shoot 200 digital pictures, but when I shot film (in my latter years) a roll a year that would be a lot. Digital has put the enjoyment to experiment back into my photography.
When you say a "roll" what exactly do you mean?

To all the people PM'ing me about wanting to buy the camera off me, I'm not going to sell it. Even if I would, I live in Australia and I'd sell it on the aussie ebay, so stop pestering me about it.
 

When you say a "roll" what exactly do you mean?

Maybe it's not an international term...35mm film comes rolled in caninsters, usually 36, 24, or 12 exposures; in North America these are traditionally called a "roll" or "roll of film". Does that make it clear?
 

Hey Tom...guess blu have misunderstood you. Thot you are gonna have that camera with you during wind or kite surfing? and not shooting from a beach on a tripot. So sorry. ;).

If that's the case, then anything would do. in fact, a film base camera my be a better choice.No worries of dust or fine sand on the sensor...:D and a Wide range of lenses and all. Think it would be cheaper to get them long tele lens now that many people are selling to replace for digital ones. (You may need to get a pretty good scanner to convert them to digital format, but that's a different subject.)

Back to the subject, Is the cam working? ie Shutter still clicks and the TTL still working? No battery corrosion on the battery terminals...if all is ok, think you can clean the finder prism. Becareful with the focussing screen. That can scratch easilly but changable. Think you can get some lens cleaner solution and a good cotton swap should do the job.

As for the lens, same thing, clean all the outside glass. mould lines on the lens sometimes do not affect the quality but that depends on the degree of damage caused by the infection. Sun the lens first. At least that would stop any further growth for the time being.

If all is working, suggest you get a roll of 12 shots and test out the camera.
 

Digital vs Film.. this has always been an endless debate, waste of time... to each his own.
Mechanical SLR and chemistry based film photography will never go extinct, this is my take.

OM3Ti and OM3 are the most highly collectable model among OM SLR series. Fully mechanical with spot metering, compact and weight a petty 510grams. I have the whole series of OM1234 in my colection, including a minty OM3Ti. (bwt, all the OM1/2/3/4 body weigh the same 510grams.. that's OM's technology.)

If your OM3 is in good condition and u think film photography is a waste of time, may be you want to consider sparing your OM3 for my collection... feel free to PM me with your offer price. Thanks.
 

Digital vs Film.. this has always been an endless debate, waste of time... to each his own.
Mechanical SLR and chemistry based film photography will never go extinct, this is my take.

Just to respond to this, it may be available, but very hard to find. Also processing of film may have to be shipped out of the country; it's already happening in Canada...Kodak has closed its local film manufacturing plant and relocated to offices that concentrate on digital photography...there's no more local special film processing.

Just look what happened to super 8 film after VHS was invented...the only way to get this movie film now is to specially order it right from the manufacturer rather than going into the local film store or corner store (where you used to buy boxes of it).

Even many x-rays are now being done digitally instead of using film, and the hospital gives you a CD to give to your family doctor instead of sending the films via courier.
 

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