moon shots using D5000

[limwhow]

nice ! handheld shots !!

hmm, i believe th moon rotates same speed as it moves round the earth .. thats y we always see the same side . and the moon moves at an angle of 15 digrees per hour.
use high shutter and about f11-16, increase ur iso should not be too bad.

some old shots , i realise IS does help ! hehe

http://www.clubsnap.com/forums/showpost.php?p=3668758&postcount=1

http://www.clubsnap.com/forums/showpost.php?p=4752107&postcount=1

Beautiful! I noticed you use a teleconverter. You racked it out to 400mm?
How high is your shutter speed?
And how high is your ISO?

 

[kikiaw]

Here's mine

 

[phazed1]

http://www.clubsnap.com/forums/showpost.php?p=3668758&postcount=1

http://www.clubsnap.com/forums/showpost.php?p=4752107&postcount=1

wow, your moons are so round .. quickly bring out the mooncakes! :bsmilie:

 

[phazed1]

kikiaw - what glass are you using that can go so close ...

 

[vince]

Hi Vince, does your Celestron have a motor drive? The telescope's tripod needs to be pretty sturdy for you to mount a camera on it and still maintain the view you want right?

Yeah I have the original Celestron GEQ mount with motor-drive. However, for shots of the moon, it's not required since the shots are done with a shutter speed of about 1/60sec. But I do also use a Gitzo tripod that can hold the weight of both the scope and camera.

 

[phazed1]

Yeah I have the original Celestron GEQ mount with motor-drive. However, for shots of the moon, it's not required since the shots are done with a shutter speed of about 1/60sec. But I do also use a Gitzo tripod that can hold the weight of both the scope and camera.

Hi Vince, does it mean that your Gitzo is attached to your DSLR, which is connected to your Celestron at the eyepiece adaptor, and the Celestron is not on its own tripod but hanging in the air? Sorry if this sounds dumb, I'm trying to improve my own setup but have no idea how to do it.

 

[kikiaw]

kikiaw - what glass are you using that can go so close ...

Im using this Sigma 18-250mm @250mm with 100% crop.

 

[mdzmr]

Hi, here mine. Shoot this sometime ago.

This one using 700mm telescope
http://www.clubsnap.com/forums/showthread.php?t=519175

This using Digiscoping with Celestron C90MAK
http://www.clubsnap.com/forums/showthread.php?t=502010

So long never do Astro ever since sold my equips.

 

[darkspore]

At a shutter speed of slower than 1/100, won't you be experiencing blurring as the revolution movement of the moon and earth is magnified at the zoom focal length?
The reason why I asked this was, I tried a shot at 300mm with shutter of 1/60, and got soft pictures of the moon.
This is one of a series of shots that I tried:

Aperture: f 5.6
Shutter speed: 1/60 s
ISO: 50
Mode: Program Mode
Metering: Spot metering
Tripod
PP (Post processing): Cropped. Sharpened by 30%.

Still blur. Can yourselves and anyone advise me?
Thanks.

As I understand it, the moon is actually very bright as it is reflecting light from the sun. An aperture of f/11 or narrower is usually used - cuts down amount of light and great DOF. Need the longest zoom you have and a solid tripod. If you have VR or IS, recommend turning it off.

I just don't think you should use P mode. Try manual settings - more rewarding too

 

[Rashkae]

As I understand it, the moon is actually very bright as it is reflecting light from the sun. An aperture of f/11 or narrower is usually used - cuts down amount of light and great DOF. Need the longest zoom you have and a solid tripod. If you have VR or IS, recommend turning it off.

I just don't think you should use P mode. Try manual settings - more rewarding too

At that distance... DOF is less of a worry than lens sharpness and contrast.

 

[StrifeYun]

Beautiful! I noticed you use a teleconverter. You racked it out to 400mm?
How high is your shutter speed?
And how high is your ISO?

thanks , i try to get at lease 250 for shutter, iso about 200-400.
sry can't remember the exact settings.

my 90mmmak telescope spoil its a 1250mm telescope. if not can try again.
nxt time will try again with my 700mm telescope.

wow, your moons are so round .. quickly bring out the mooncakes! :bsmilie:

yum yum

 

[raymond350]

Read an article that says the sunny f16 rule which applies for sun lit objects applies for the moon as well. Can give it a try

 

[limwhow]

Read an article that says the sunny f16 rule which applies for sun lit objects applies for the moon as well. Can give it a try

Ok, thanks for the advice. Would try.

thanks , i try to get at lease 250 for shutter, iso about 200-400.
sry can't remember the exact settings.

Ok. Will give this a try too. Thanks so much for your advice.

 

[vince]

Hi Vince, does it mean that your Gitzo is attached to your DSLR, which is connected to your Celestron at the eyepiece adaptor, and the Celestron is not on its own tripod but hanging in the air? Sorry if this sounds dumb, I'm trying to improve my own setup but have no idea how to do it.

Actually, the camera is mounted on the scope and the scope is mounted onto the plate of the gitzo. In essence, the camera is hanging off being held only by the lens mount to the telescope which is then mounted on the tripod.

This is how large lenses similar to telescopes are mounted on tripods (eg, 300mm - 800mm lenses)

 

[phazed1]

Actually, the camera is mounted on the scope and the scope is mounted onto the plate of the gitzo. In essence, the camera is hanging off being held only by the lens mount to the telescope which is then mounted on the tripod.

This is how large lenses similar to telescopes are mounted on tripods (eg, 300mm - 800mm lenses)

i see ... thanks! :thumbsup:

 

[Valjean]

Here's my shot of the full moon, using D90 with kit lens. Nowhere near the magnification and details of the excellent moon shots in this thread though.

 

[eosandy]

Well, yes it was tripod-ed and timer released.
I could not understand.
I tried using aperture of 11 up to 22. But the corresponding slowing of shutter speed for some reason caused the moon to be over-exposed.
My ISO is already at its lowest at 50.
Therefore I am truly wondering what else have I missed.
It was AF, not MF. But at infinity focusing is not an issue at all.

I believe your are right to say that there is some movement. But if I was already tripod-ed and timer released, then the only possible movment must have been from the moon itself, which led me to conlcude that at 1/60 the moon movement may be the cause.

You could try mirror lock-up function if available, to further reduce possibility of shake during exposure.

 

[limwhow]

You could try mirror lock-up function if available, to further reduce possibility of shake during exposure.

Hi eosandy, after perusing the several moon shot threads, I am beginning to get a better idea of how to go about getting sharper pictures. My problem was:
1. shutter speed to slow at 1/60 because at max zoom of 300mm the moon movement would cause blurness. I suspected that, but didn't have the guts to shoot faster.
2. Really need to use sweet spot f/8 or f/11.
3. Have to adjust ISO higher accordingly. My 5DMkII can safely go up to 1600-3200 with tolerable noise. The 50D can still up to 1600. 400D once hit iso 800, cannot make it already.
4. Turn off all IS/VR. Do an AF first. Then turn AF to MF and do fine MF and leave it there. This is so that no more movement from AF can take place.
5. Lock the mirror. Thus all possible shakes are down to a minimum.
6. Cable release.

 

[eosandy]

Hi eosandy, after perusing the several moon shot threads, I am beginning to get a better idea of how to go about getting sharper pictures. My problem was:
1. shutter speed to slow at 1/60 because at max zoom of 300mm the moon movement would cause blurness. I suspected that, but didn't have the guts to shoot faster.
2. Really need to use sweet spot f/8 or f/11.
3. Have to adjust ISO higher accordingly. My 5DMkII can safely go up to 1600-3200 with tolerable noise. The 50D can still up to 1600. 400D once hit iso 800, cannot make it already.
4. Turn off all IS/VR. Do an AF first. Then turn AF to MF and do fine MF and leave it there. This is so that no more movement from AF can take place.
5. Lock the mirror. Thus all possible shakes are down to a minimum.
6. Cable release.

I'd replace the cable release with an IR type, or go with the self-timer. No moving parts = no shake.

 

[redmonsoon]

By any chance any of u took these from Toh Guan Park?...