Mini Waterfall

[superfly]

Tried my hand at shooting water movement today.
Couldn't get a sharp image because my tripod head seems to be slipping downwards gradually... (time to get a better tripod?)
Would like comments on composition, color, dof.

Thanks in advance.

 

[ortega]

for more impact
go lower and closer to your subject

and yes time to BBB

 

[superfly]

for more impact
go lower and closer to your subject

and yes time to BBB

Tried to but any lower and I'll be lying in the mini stream the "waterfall" is only about 2 ft high I think... :bsmilie:

 

[ortega]

i suppose that is what you would have to do, hee hee

 

[Maltese]

agree with most of the comments given here already...personally I will leopard crawl and lay down straight to get an angle from down to up to get the distance or any shot that requires one. As age caught up and wife keeps complaining of the dirty laundry , if possible, try to use a angle finder, then you will be able to go real low without touching the floor.

The water flowing is too unreal, for a scale like this. That is the problem with many water movements. Most people think that a long exposure with a steady tripod gets a waterfall effect anywhere. Bear in mind that waterfalls are usually flowing from open space areas such as those from detian (德&#22825, niagara or victoria falls. Water streams flowing are in dense vegetation. The lighting condition is very different. You will need a couple more stops longer to get a diffused water flows as compared to an open area waterfalls. That is why some minor movement of the surrounding vegetations gets blurred along the opening exposure and portray a less ideal image.

I usually strive to get the movement of the water while keeping everything sharp. That bounces off to the audience the idea of rapidness anytime.

Hope that helps.

 

[superfly]

Maltese : Thanks for your comments and input!

As a hobbyist, I don't think I'll ever go to the extent of leopard crawling in muddy waters to get a shot. I had enough of that in NS and reservist training, the only difference being the weapon in hand. :bsmilie:

As for the angle finder, I don't think I'll be using it enough to justify buying one.

I'm a bit confused by your comment "The water flowing is too unreal, for a scale like this". Does it mean that I should not try to achieve the silky water effect in a stream? Guess I'll have to wait for the right opportunity to shoot a real waterfall, but definitely not the detian, niagara or victoria falls ;p

 

[ryanlwc]

May i know your specs for taking tis photo ? Thanks

 

[superfly]

May i know your specs for taking tis photo ? Thanks

I started with a 1 sec exposure and played with the aperture settings, ISO until I get what I wanted. Or you can just set to shutter priority. Hope that helps.

Thanks for viewing.

 

[bent]

everytime i increase the shutter setting, the picture becomes overexposed due to too much light entering. how do i solve this problem?

using some kind of filter is it?

 

[nottipiglet]

everytime i increase the shutter setting, the picture becomes overexposed due to too much light entering. how do i solve this problem?

using some kind of filter is it?

What you want is an nd filter.

Anyway... shooting the longkang water is a bit sad. I'm sure you can find something more dramatic to shoot if you look hard enough. ;p

 

[superfly]

What you want is an nd filter.

Anyway... shooting the longkang water is a bit sad. I'm sure you can find something more dramatic to shoot if you look hard enough. ;p

I shot this in a heavily shaded area, so did not use any filters. For wide open spaces, you will need the ND filter as mentioned by nottipiglet.

BTW nottipiglet, this is not longkang lar. It is a mini stream in SBG. Tried shooting swans that day but the results were awful, so went to take "longkang". Because longkangs don't move around. HAHA!

Will try harder next time.

 

[nottipiglet]

I shot this in a heavily shaded area, so did not use any filters. For wide open spaces, you will need the ND filter as mentioned by nottipiglet.

BTW nottipiglet, this is not longkang lar. It is a mini stream in SBG. Tried shooting swans that day but the results were awful, so went to take "longkang". Because longkangs don't move around. HAHA!

Will try harder next time.

Don't mean to offend... Don't think I would have done any better.

I was looking at the 'stream', and I noticed that some of the leaves around it moved. It is beyond your control, because small things move easily. For these long exposure shots, I think you need something on a bigger scale, so that these small movements do not affect the big picture.

These long exposure shots can look quite spectacular. I have seen such pictures of the sea, taken with nd filter.... and they look like clouds because of the long exposure.

Maybe some day I will try my hand at it... when I can find the time.

 

[nottipiglet]

Speaking of swans... I like this swan photo very much. Can't find any faults with this one:

http://www.photo.net/photodb/photo?photo_id=4538266

 

[superfly]

Don't mean to offend... Don't think I would have done any better.

I was looking at the 'stream', and I noticed that some of the leaves around it moved. It is beyond your control, because small things move easily. For these long exposure shots, I think you need something on a bigger scale, so that these small movements do not affect the big picture.

These long exposure shots can look quite spectacular. I have seen such pictures of the sea, taken with nd filter.... and they look like clouds because of the long exposure.

Maybe some day I will try my hand at it... when I can find the time.

Don't worry, no offence taken. You are quite right about the moving leaves. Just take this as practice so that when the opportunity comes, at least I know what to do.

 

[+evenstar]

everytime i increase the shutter setting, the picture becomes overexposed due to too much light entering. how do i solve this problem?

using some kind of filter is it?

u increase the shutter speed, won't the image be underexposed instead?:dunno: :dunno:

do remember that the shutter and aperture have an inverse relation...(ie if u increase shutter speed, u open up the aperture and vice versa)


to TS: try a wider angle to include more of the base of the "waterfall"