Itchy Hands :> Playing with Aperture.

[ireallydontlikepink]

Photo 1
Exposure: 0.001 sec (1/2000)
Aperture: f/2.0
Focal Length: 5.1 mm

Photo 2
Exposure: 0.002 sec (1/640)
Aperture: f/6.3
Focal Length: 12.8 mm

Aiyoh
I was taking photos with my LX 3 and facing the sun.
So there is RED color on the status so i assumed that its too bright.
Then i act smart change Aperture value.

When i review the photos on my lappy, then i realized the blue sky turn gloomy!! :what:

Please advise how i should prevent such things happening?
Thank you.

 

[xxdoggyxx]

Thank you for censoring me out of your picture

Advice for you: [I may not be correct, but its worth a try.]

If you want to remain at your F/6.3, put ISO higher?
Shutter longer?
Light exposure longer?

The first picture was nice....

 

[Diavonex]

Pictures are taken under different lighting conditions. It's not because of the aperture adjustment.

First picture have hardly any clouds.

Second picture have plenty of clouds.

If you want the second picture to have nice blue sky, you can either use a GND filter or a Polarising filter.

You are actually not facing the sun; subject shadow are on the side.

 

[allenleonhart]

Pictures are taken under different lighting conditions. It's not because of the aperture adjustment.

First picture have hardly any clouds.

Second picture have plenty of clouds.

If you want the second picture to have nice blue sky, you can either use a GND filter or a Polarising filter.

You are actually not facing the sun; subject shadow are on the side.

nice tat u noticed the shadows.

general rule of thumb, if ur shooting at the same place, the same settings shld work. are u sure u conpensated correctly?

f2.0 f2.8 f3.5 f4.5 f5.6
1/2000 1/1000 1/500 1/250 1/125

tats my estimation based on ur first photo's exposure.

i believe compensating 1 stop more would had done the trick. 1/125 or 1/100 seems decently the right shutter based on the same set of settings

 

[kaixiang]

f2.0 f2.8 f3.5 f4.5 f5.6
1/2000 1/1000 1/500 1/250 1/125

You made a mistake.

f/2.0 1/2000
f/2.8 1/1000
f/4.0 1/500
f/5.6 1/250
f/8.0 1/125

f/6.3 is around 1/3 of a stop smaller than f/5.6 so the equivalent shutter speed would be around 1/200.

 

[ZerocoolAstra]

yeah... so it's more than a stop underexposed... that would explain the difference. But because of the different angle which TS took both photos, the meter could be fooled. Probably wrong metering mode used... (?)

 

[Reportage]

the 2nd one you aimed where?

 

[Diavonex]

Using different metering mode will give different result. See the 3 different mode below:

http://www.all-things-photography.com/evaluative-metering.html

 

[ovaltinemilo]

You made a mistake.
f/6.3 is around 1/3 of a stop smaller than f/5.6 so the equivalent shutter speed would be around 1/200.

This calculation is right. Thus, 1/640 will give you much less light if you are looking to achieve the same bright sunny scene in pic 1. Anyway, you can try pp to salvage if you wana keep the photo. If not next time , can check histogram on the LCD..don't rely on the review picture on the LCD as it won't be accurate...

 

[Diavonex]

ireallydontlikepink, what shooting and metering mode are you using?

 

[kutten]

Photo 1
Exposure: 0.001 sec (1/2000)
Aperture: f/2.0
Focal Length: 5.1 mm

Photo 2
Exposure: 0.002 sec (1/640)
Aperture: f/6.3
Focal Length: 12.8 mm

Aiyoh
I was taking photos with my LX 3 and facing the sun.
So there is RED color on the status so i assumed that its too bright.
Then i act smart change Aperture value.

When i review the photos on my lappy, then i realized the blue sky turn gloomy!! :what:

Please advise how i should prevent such things happening?
Thank you.

You make a common mistake as you trust the LCD screen and status too much. You should always look at your Histogram.

By looking at your 2nd photo; it is under exposed. The histogram is biased to the left where leaving a big gap on the right. A good photo should have a tonal range cover the entire histogram without the block-shadow and Blown-out highlight . In your case, you should refer the histogram, knowing that there is such a big gap on the right (you are losing highlight detail), you should increase the EV compensation +1/3 stop until the histogram is almost touching the right end leaving a very small small gap to avoid blown-out highlight. When you go back the load to your lappy, you should see a well exposed picture.

By putting a CPL will make the sky looks better, but the same concept above applies ..

 

[Diavonex]

You make a common mistake as you trust the LCD screen and status too much. You should always look at your Histogram.

By looking at your 2nd photo; it is under exposed. The histogram is biased to the left where leaving a big gap on the right. A good photo should have a tonal range cover the entire histogram without the block-shadow and Blown-out highlight . In your case, you should refer the histogram, knowing that there is such a big gap on the right (you are losing highlight detail), you should increase the EV compensation +1/3 stop until the histogram is almost touching the right end leaving a very small small gap to avoid blown-out highlight. When you go back the load to your lappy, you should see a well exposed picture.

By putting a CPL will make the sky looks better, but the same concept above applies ..

If he over-expose the picture further, the sky will get even lighter.

 

[kutten]

This is having tonal range adjusted and I have added in a ND filter on the sky. Compare the histogram before and after with your own photoshop S/W and you will see what I am trying to say ...

If the girl standing at the front is what you would like to include in the photo, then you should consider using the daylight fill flash to remove the shadow on her face.

 

[kutten]

If he over-expose the picture further, the sky will get even lighter.

not really that bad, now I remove the Filter effect ..Sufficient tonal range coverage is essential to provide good details of shadow and highlight.
I just added in ND for fun, should use a CPL. Base on the photo, the sun should be in the direction of the "ireallydontlikepink" right shoulder; right time to use.

 

[ireallydontlikepink]

Thank you for censoring me out of your picture

Advice for you: [I may not be correct, but its worth a try.]

If you want to remain at your F/6.3, put ISO higher?
Shutter longer?
Light exposure longer?

The first picture was nice....

Ehhh... i did not know u went outing with me too!! ^^ ...
Was it fun? keke

 

[ireallydontlikepink]

Pictures are taken under different lighting conditions. It's not because of the aperture adjustment.

First picture have hardly any clouds.

Second picture have plenty of clouds.

If you want the second picture to have nice blue sky, you can either use a GND filter or a Polarising filter.

You are actually not facing the sun; subject shadow are on the side.

Hi, if i did not remember wrongly, GND filter or a Polarising filter are additional parts of the DSLR right? .. the problem is i am holding LX3 so i dun think there is such for it. ...

...Oh ya actually .. i am not facing sun but the overall sunlight is crazy. :embrass:
And hence i think my judgement went hay-wired too...

 

[ireallydontlikepink]

yeah... so it's more than a stop underexposed... that would explain the difference. But because of the different angle which TS took both photos, the meter could be fooled. Probably wrong metering mode used... (?)

Metering mode? ...
You mean the focus thing?

 

[ireallydontlikepink]

This calculation is right. Thus, 1/640 will give you much less light if you are looking to achieve the same bright sunny scene in pic 1. Anyway, you can try pp to salvage if you wana keep the photo. If not next time , can check histogram on the LCD..don't rely on the review picture on the LCD as it won't be accurate...

OMG! I totally forgot abot histogram ... thanks ya.
I realized the LCD really not accurate.
many times - i fet disappointment when transfer photos to laptop.

 

[ireallydontlikepink]

You make a common mistake as you trust the LCD screen and status too much. You should always look at your Histogram.

By looking at your 2nd photo; it is under exposed. The histogram is biased to the left where leaving a big gap on the right. A good photo should have a tonal range cover the entire histogram without the block-shadow and Blown-out highlight . In your case, you should refer the histogram, knowing that there is such a big gap on the right (you are losing highlight detail), you should increase the EV compensation +1/3 stop until the histogram is almost touching the right end leaving a very small small gap to avoid blown-out highlight. When you go back the load to your lappy, you should see a well exposed picture.

By putting a CPL will make the sky looks better, but the same concept above applies ..

... sorry whats CPL ??..
overall i think i understand what you are trying to explain, but just .. erm CPL?
:>

 

[ireallydontlikepink]

This is having tonal range adjusted and I have added in a ND filter on the sky. Compare the histogram before and after with your own photoshop S/W and you will see what I am trying to say ...

If the girl standing at the front is what you would like to include in the photo, then you should consider using the daylight fill flash to remove the shadow on her face.

THIS IS What i am expecting or HOPING to PP too ...
but firstly i am not using Photoshop ... my netbook cant really do it.
secondly, i use online editing - picnik still pretty new at in ...

SO in general i dunno wats ND and also the others .. Sighz ..
i like this photo ...

Ya i have problem with the dark faces too
PICNIK doesnt allow me to select only the face and lighten it ..
:embrass: