Is Circular polarizer really useful ?


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orionct

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Jun 24, 2009
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Hi,

Would like to learn from you guys, if i want to take landscape and with a nice sky, using circular polarizer really make a difference?

What kind of circumstances should we use circular polarizer?
As this filter is not cheap, the cheapest one the shop quote is ard $45, therefore do not want to waste money on something unnecesary.

Thanks!
 

explained here...

CPL filters, like any other filters, have different qualities (reflected in the prices)... a $45 CPL filter is considered cheap, but may run into problems of unwanted color casts & difficulty in cleaning. a good filter is very easy to clean off using microfibre lens cloth leaving behind no lint/hair/residue.
 

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Yes it is. Especially at mid day when the sun is at the highest point and the light intensity is the highest and lighting is most harsh, a CPL makes a lot of differences unless your intention is to get over-exposed shots.
 

Hi, orionct.
You have a fantastic machine the D90. Don't waste it.
It would definitely bring you wonderful sky with a CPL.
If I may, I would certainly suggest-
1. seeing some photos of before and after CPL.
2. Bravely buying a CPL and,
3. Going out and trying it for an unbeatable deep blue sky or a clear, non-reflective (almost) pond.
 

google is your best friend.

http://forums.steves-digicams.com/newbie-help/85276-how-do-i-use-circular-polarizer.html

To use a polarizer for maximum effect, a simple rule of thumb
(literally) is to point your thumb at the sun, then extend your
forefinger (like your making a handgun). Maximum polarization
occurs at the direction your forefinger is pointing. When it comes
to reflections, the polarizing filter works best on light that passes
through the filter at an optimal angle (say 30 or 40 degrees)
from the reflecting surface. If you want to achieve maximum
polarization, you would do best to choose your subject, then
determine the viewpoint needed to achieve 90° (30°/40° for
reflections).

http://www.great-landscape-photography.com/polarizing-filter.html

http://www.luminous-landscape.com/tutorials/polarizers.shtml

Polarization is most effective at 90 degrees to the sun. This means that the subject that you are shooting will display maximum polarization at right angles to the sun's position. At 180 degrees, in other words with the sun right behind you, polarization is almost non-existent.

An old trick for visualizing the maximum angle is to turn your index finger into a gun (like when you were a child), with your thumb pointing upward. Make as if to shoot the sun with your finger and your thumb will point toward where polarization is at its most extreme. Remember though that this isn't just at one angle. Rotate your wrist through 180 degrees (if you can), because the entire circle around the sun is equally polarized.

note that anything wider than 28mm in 35mm film terms will give you uneven polarisation.
 

The CPL can make the blue sky very blue. Was using the Green L CPL filter but the effect wasn't that great. Then recently I bought a HOYA PRO1 D CPL and the effect is much better.

Took a photo at kanchanaburi, Thailand using the filter. :)

4092778718_df0b5312d8_b.jpg
 

hi all,

thanks so much for the valuable information, now i know i should buy a CPL. Next is which CPL is really worth to buy?

I been to some shop to ask, tokina one $45, the another one Kenko (should be) multi-coated one is $95. And Hoya multi-coated is even more expensive $150+ (if I am not wrong). though all made by Tokina. The shop sale person recommended me to take the Kenko one, as it is multicoated.

So my question now is: do i really need multicoated CPL? or the normal CPL is good enuf?
Any of you have seen the difference between non-multicoated and multicoated CPL. really such great difference?
 

sure got difference

main thing is whether you care enough to pay the price.

just like cheap consumer lens can also take good pictures, but zoom in, the IQ will be different as well, or there are performance issues like distortion etc.

you decide yourself, seriously.
 

FYI... i was quoted $170 from John 3:16 for the Kenko wan... not too sure exactly which model though...

Anyway, can consider getting it from other countries such as Thailand or Hong Kong as it is much cheaper... I got mine from thailand for around SGD 103. :)
 

FYI... i was quoted $170 from John 3:16 for the Kenko wan... not too sure exactly which model though...

Anyway, can consider getting it from other countries such as Thailand or Hong Kong as it is much cheaper... I got mine from thailand for around SGD 103. :)

waaa? 170 :bigeyes:

Anyway, OP is selling Kenko Pro1D for 90, Kenko Zeta (equiv to Hoya HD) for 160. They also have Hoya HMC, Tokina and B+W.

Personally, I like kenko stuff. very good value/quality for money.
 

I use a Kenko Pro 1D. It's very much better than the Tokina one that I used before.
 

FYI... i was quoted $170 from John 3:16 for the Kenko wan... not too sure exactly which model though...
Anyway, can consider getting it from other countries such as Thailand or Hong Kong as it is much cheaper... I got mine from thailand for around SGD 103. :)

What is the point of comparing prices if you don't know what you are comparing? :dunno:
There are different models of each brand, sometimes coating is different, sometimes it's just a new make or version of the same filter. Also, do note that filter prices heavily depend on the size. Any price quote without type and size is useless.
 

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I use a Kenko Pro 1D. It's very much better than the Tokina one that I used before.

What kind of difference you will see actually ? color saturation ?
 

btw, another concern i have is isn't you guys feel troublesome to use a CPL as you need to take out the CPL when shooting other thing if feel it is too dim or indoor. And when you are shooting at sky, landscape, water, or glass then you put it on again? :think:
 

CPL can be quite fun. Was trying out with a B+W 72mm last week. It really makes a difference but not as strong as I hope (more apparent on grass and reflective surfaces than deepening the sky). Sky was rather hazy (weaker direct sunlight) so I suspect ambient light was rather scattered (hence less filtering?) instead of strong directional sunlight (using sidelighting). Gotta try another day.

btw, trying to see thru' the viewfinder abit difficult when rotating the filter so maybe I'll try live view while zoomed in instead.


btw, another concern i have is isn't you guys feel troublesome to use a CPL as you need to take out the CPL when shooting other thing if feel it is too dim or indoor. And when you are shooting at sky, landscape, water, or glass then you put it on again? :think:

Keep the filter case in your pocket? I usually take my time to set up so not really a problem. Just take less than a min to take out/keep and screw on or off.
 

btw, another concern i have is isn't you guys feel troublesome to use a CPL as you need to take out the CPL when shooting other thing if feel it is too dim or indoor. And when you are shooting at sky, landscape, water, or glass then you put it on again? :think:

Ya , very. so if there is no real need for me to enhance the blueness of the skies or improve foliage colors, i dun bring it out. In fact the only time i use them is for the reflections on water surfaces.

ryan
 

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