I'm going to buy film SLR soon


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Hydesg

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#1
item :
1) 50/1.8 lens - no stock

2) Nikon F80 body @ S$600.00
Nikon F80 c/with 28-100 mm lens @ S$775.00

3) Canon EOS 30 body @ S$701.00
4) Canon EOS 300v c/with 28-90 mm lens @ S$519.00

Date : 28 April 2003 / SN

Hello and thank you for your email.

Price : nett and subject to 4% GST
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this was quoted to me by Cathy
do you guys think that the EOS 30 body is a good buy at this price ?
any idea if it comes with that eye control focus function ?

or should i get a F80 from Nikon?
i'm in a dilemma
which one to choose
F80 or EOS 30


perhaps you guys could give me some suggestions?

:embrass:
 

Larry

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#2
no comments on whether to choose F80 or EOS30 (too much of a potential flamebait), but have you considered second hand? think i saw a few EOS30 and F80 bodies being sold off here and on the various classifieds.
 

wormz777

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EOS 30 comes with eye control. EOS 33 doesn't
 

Prismatic

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Hmm... do you need the eye-control?
If not, then you can go for the Nikon. For the EOS30, you only have 7 focus point, which you can change easily with the press of a button, why would you need eye-control for that?

I've got 45 focus point on mine and I hardly even use ECF at all.....
 

mervlam

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agree. i have an EOS 30 and i hardly use the ECF. it's quite easy to choose the focus point using the arrow buttons on the camera back.
 

doc

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#6
:rbounce: :rbounce: :rbounce:

Personal Opinions...

For a mid end body, I would go for Canon anytime. ;p ;p

Canon tend to include more functions in their mid or even entry range bodies... Like High Speed Flash Sync.

But I do like the Spot meter which the F80 has and non of Canon's mid ranges have.
 

Prismatic

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Though I'm a loyal Canon user, I will advise you to buy what you need. What I think: Compared to the F80, the EOS 30 seem to have a more solid feel on it's body. And yes, it's got high speed sync flash, (Though it's a rarely used function), it's hard to appreciate it's usefulness unless you are on a 550EX. The main selling point of a Canon however, is the AF speed and accuracy, which is quite unbeatable.

On the other hand, the F80 has spotmetering, which will be essential if you are doing low-light or portrait shooting. It also have an on-demand grid screen to help in composition.

So it's really up to you, depends what is your photographic interest. If it's sports, action, stage etc etc, go for the Canon,
if it's otherwise, more slow-paced work, a Nikon will do quite fine.
 

Zerstorer

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Might be slightly off topic:

I notice that Canon mid-range bodies(EOS30/33) have an AF rated down to 1-18EV while Nikons(F80) and Minoltas(700si) are rated (-1 - 19EV).

Assuming the specifications are accurate, doesn't it suggest that with a similar lens, the Canon's AF will perform less realiably in low light?

Anyone with experience with both systems care to comment?
 

suhaimig

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#9
Originally posted by Zerstorer
Might be slightly off topic:

I notice that Canon mid-range bodies(EOS30/33) have an AF rated down to 1-18EV while Nikons(F80) and Minoltas(700si) are rated (-1 - 19EV).
Do I really need to know all this in photography?:D

Cheers.:cool:
 

mervlam

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#11
Originally posted by Zerstorer
Might be slightly off topic:

I notice that Canon mid-range bodies(EOS30/33) have an AF rated down to 1-18EV while Nikons(F80) and Minoltas(700si) are rated (-1 - 19EV).

Assuming the specifications are accurate, doesn't it suggest that with a similar lens, the Canon's AF will perform less realiably in low light?

Anyone with experience with both systems care to comment?
this is a minor point. if worse comes to worst, use manual focus lor.
 

Prismatic

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#12
Originally posted by Zerstorer
Might be slightly off topic:

I notice that Canon mid-range bodies(EOS30/33) have an AF rated down to 1-18EV while Nikons(F80) and Minoltas(700si) are rated (-1 - 19EV).

Assuming the specifications are accurate, doesn't it suggest that with a similar lens, the Canon's AF will perform less realiably in low light?

Anyone with experience with both systems care to comment?
Well, supposed to be so. BUT... both camera uses a focus-assist lamp to help focus in low light anyway, so the figures are really quite pointless. Also, at lower EV values, it's difficult to even see whether anything is in focus through the view-finder, so what's the point?
 

Prismatic

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#13
However, with regards to the EV range, it's the reason why I switch the focusing screen on my EOS 3 to a laser-matte screen, so I can have a brighter view in the viewfinder to help me focus in low-light.

(But seriously, how are you going to take pictures at -1 or even 1 EV without focus-assist from at least your flash's IR beam?)
 

Zerstorer

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Originally posted by mervlam
this is a minor point. if worse comes to worst, use manual focus lor.
Some may not regard that as a minor point and I doubt one can do any better manual focusing in low-light without a split-image circle or at least a microprism focusing screen.

The point about the AF working range is how accurately it will focus, with or without any AF assist. If a camera is able to focus to a lower light level without AF assist, then it will surely perform better(either with less hunting or more accurately) with it.

One must note that AF isn't entirely reliable when it approaches its working limits, so it may sometimes register focus and yet be a little off.

However, we are digressing from the main topic.
 

mervlam

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#15
Originally posted by Zerstorer
Some may not regard that as a minor point and I doubt one can do any better manual focusing in low-light without a split-image circle or at least a microprism focusing screen.

The point about the AF working range is how accurately it will focus, with or without any AF assist. If a camera is able to focus to a lower light level without AF assist, then it will surely perform better(either with less hunting or more accurately) with it.

One must note that AF isn't entirely reliable when it approaches its working limits, so it may sometimes register focus and yet be a little off.

However, we are digressing from the main topic.
a typical concert lighting is about 2 to 3 EV. i still can AF with my camera. the idea is to use for the cross sensor and find a high contrast area to AF on. i had even tried to AF on a white wall in total darkness with speedlite AF assist lamp. still can focus.

that's why i dismissed it as a minor point. surely the AF working range is not a major point when it comes to choosing camera bodies right?
 

Hydesg

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#16
i think im getting the eOS 30 then
plus a 50mm f1.8 lens first


would that be a good choice?
no zoom first
becayuse not enough cash on hand
 

suhaimig

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#17
Originally posted by Hydesg
i think im getting the eOS 30 then
plus a 50mm f1.8 lens first


would that be a good choice?
no zoom first
becayuse not enough cash on hand

This a good idea and don't forget the tripod.:)

Cheers.:cool:
 

Zerstorer

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#18
Originally posted by mervlam
a typical concert lighting is about 2 to 3 EV. i still can AF with my camera. the idea is to use for the cross sensor and find a high contrast area to AF on. i had even tried to AF on a white wall in total darkness with speedlite AF assist lamp. still can focus.
A patterned AF assist light from an external flash certainly helps in the case of a white wall. But try the same, with just a normal white assist lamp or when your AF assist is out of range. Note that the effective range of the AF assist is usually less than the effective range of the flash.


that's why i dismissed it as a minor point. surely the AF working range is not a major point when it comes to choosing camera bodies right?
Wouldn't greater ease in focus appeal to you? Less hunting? Different strokes perhaps.:)
 

mervlam

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#19
ok.... then give me an example of this kind of situation where the EV drops below 1 EV, else i'm not convinced.
 

mervlam

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#20
Originally posted by Hydesg
i think im getting the eOS 30 then
plus a 50mm f1.8 lens first


would that be a good choice?
no zoom first
becayuse not enough cash on hand
the 50mm lens is sharp. you will love it.
 

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