Hyperfocus VS Infinity Focus
- Thread starter fatBozZ
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with the hyperfocus method, objects half the distance of your focusing point will also be in focus. with the focus infinity method, less objects in your picture will be in focus (compared to the hyperfocus method). this is assuming that not all of your scene is at infinity focus. if your entire scene is at infinity, then the picture you get with both methods should be about the same.
what I understand is the hyperfocal distance only maximizes your focal plane (the parts of the scene that is in focus). The sharpness at f/3.5 vs f/11 is dependent on your lens and not if you're using hyperfocus or not.
there are many articles about hyperfocus in the internet. here's one
http://www.great-landscape-photography.com/hyperfocal.html
there are many articles about hyperfocus in the internet. here's one
http://www.great-landscape-photography.com/hyperfocal.html
I tried out the hyperfocal distance method but doesn't seem working out for me. Here's what I did:
After determined the distance (say 1.45m), I walked up to a subject (ard 1.5m) and half-pressed the shutter to lock the focus. Then I bring up my camera, re-composed the frame and depressed the shutter.
Only the foreground is in focus.
Is my method wrong?
After determined the distance (say 1.45m), I walked up to a subject (ard 1.5m) and half-pressed the shutter to lock the focus. Then I bring up my camera, re-composed the frame and depressed the shutter.
Only the foreground is in focus.
Is my method wrong?
Here it is: 18mm, F-11 1/60
I focused at the lower part of the tree (abt 1.5m from my posistion). Then brought up my camera & re-composed.
The white fence behind is out-of-focus. Not sure if u can see from the small thumbnail. Just wondering is it due to re-frame that caused hyperfocal distance don't work?
_DSC2653 by LFC25, on Flickr
At 1/60 under the condition I think the fence is over-exposed.
Since you are not including anything in front of the tree trunk, why set your target on the tree?
Since you are not including anything in front of the tree trunk, why set your target on the tree?
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I was trying to use the hyperfocal distance method.
My kit lens doesn't have a distance scale therefore I est. my foucs at the tree which is roughly the hyperfocal distance.
LFC25 said:
Hyper focal requires u to focus slightly ahead than the closest subject u want to keep focus in frame. E.g. If the cloest subject is 1m away, you need to focus at abt 1.5m or more, not at the exact 1m. Btw, the e.g. I gave is only a rough idea of focusing ahead than subject. Please use a hyper focal chart or read up DD123's article on hyper focusing in details.
This article clearly explain the concept and intent of using hyperfocal distance. What you did has nothing to do with hyperfocal distance.
http://dofmaster.com/hyperfocal.html
Here it is: 18mm, F-11 1/60
I focused at the lower part of the tree (abt 1.5m from my posistion). Then brought up my camera & re-composed.
The white fence behind is out-of-focus. Not sure if u can see from the small thumbnail. Just wondering is it due to re-frame that caused hyperfocal distance don't work?
_DSC2653 by LFC25, on Flickr
Even looking at the largest resolution you provided I am not even sure if the white fence is in focus or not. The building with maroon pillars brhind the fence looks ok though. But again, I cannot be sure unless you show us the full resolution sized pic.
So if something behind the fence is in focus, and something in front of the fence is in focus, it is natural that the fence is also in focus. But we can only be sure if you upload the full size version of the pic.
Another thing to note, is that hyperfocal distance will work if you overestimate the focus distance. But once you underestimate, even by a little bit, you run into trouble. In your case of 1.45, you estimated 1.5. Are you very sure that it is 1.5? It is only 5cm difference. It is very possible that you might have underestimated.
Maybe upload the full size pic so we can take a look.
Because your calculation seems to be incorrect. Check the links given, calculate the DOF manually for your settings. You want to have the tree (1.5m from you) and the fence and all behind (~ 50m to Infinity) in focus.
F/11 on APS-C (Canon, 1.6x crop), 18mm, 1.5m subject distance: Near Limit 0.76m; Far Limit 89.5m. You simply focus too close and lose out in the distance.
Thanks to the online calculator you can play a bit with the subject distance. Only changing the subject distance to 2m I get Near Limit: 0.86m and Far Limit: 'Infinity'. With subject distance of 15m (no typo, fifteen meters), the Near Limit is 1.37m with Far Limit at Infinity. Hope that's clear enough. Feel free to do your own field tests, use a tripod to stabilize the frame, then use the focus points to select objects at different distance points. Use a measuring tape (5m) to get accurate distance figures for the near objects. You do it a few times and you get the feeling.
First of all, thanks all for reading this thread and your valuable feedback.
*daredevil123, I have already deleted the original pic so can't upload it again. my apologies.
*Octatine, for 18mm F/11 the DOF Master calculated my focus distance is 1.45m, hence I focused my camera at the tree which is abt 1.5m ( you're right it is a rough est as my kit lens does not have a distance scale).
I'll try it out again if my office work is not so tight this weekend. I just want to be sure that the problem was not due to the re-composed frame.
*Coweye/shierwin, thanks for the inputs.
*daredevil123, I have already deleted the original pic so can't upload it again. my apologies.
*Octatine, for 18mm F/11 the DOF Master calculated my focus distance is 1.45m, hence I focused my camera at the tree which is abt 1.5m ( you're right it is a rough est as my kit lens does not have a distance scale).
I'll try it out again if my office work is not so tight this weekend. I just want to be sure that the problem was not due to the re-composed frame.
*Coweye/shierwin, thanks for the inputs.
It's not about the distance scale, there is always a way to estimate. The question is rather: where is your Near Limit? Which object close to your cam still needs to be sharp? But as you can see from my results: there is no need to focus on this point, focusing further into the distance still gives sufficient sharpness. Maybe you redo your Maths and compare with the links provided?
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