Hyperfocal

[Josephchlee]

The subject of hyperfocal is perhaps one of the most important in landscape photography, so I have learned but the calculation is impossible and I tried to used memory work spending time continually on the WEB hyperfocal calculation and playing with the various senarios.

Just discovered that there is a FREE tool, "Field Tools" which can be downloaded to your iPhone and click on the small i and you can set you Camera type, APS-C for circle confusion correction, type of lens Zoom range. It is so helpful and FREE.

Tip:Type "hyperfocal" and not "hyperfocal calc" in your search.

 

[Octarine]

Some Excel sheets can do the same, very easily. All sensor related parameters won't change in the field. So you just need focal length and aperture. Print, laminate, put into your camera bag. Will even work after heavy rain or other wet accidents

 

[DrSpock]

I think another simpler & quick way is by using the 1/3 focusing method and check with the DOF button

 

[Josephchlee]

Yes the 1/3 focusing method is good advise but I use Canon 60D and still cannot find the DOF button, I believe not there.

 

[2evans]

Yes the 1/3 focusing method is good advise but I use Canon 60D and still cannot find the DOF button, I believe not there.

Check page 117 of your manual.

 

[Josephchlee]

Thank you for highlighting page 117 and indeed there is a button on 60D and I have tried using it before but found it not helpful, thus skip my mind.

I tried at TV and Manual and it does not seems to work, and this subject of Depth of Field Preview button is in the AV section of the manual. I believe the manufacturer expect us to view whether the depth of field is correct through the viewer as I cannot find any numbers of range, most difficult using autofucus and my eyesight is not that good with some shaking for a beginner. So use the LCD and zoom to review, very troublesome and my subject has already moved.

Appreciate if someone explain how the button works as I find the numbers given by hyperfocal calculation most reliable, i.e. hold my camera point to the estimated distant, frame and shoot, so far so good, catching my subject most of the time with execellent background.

 

[GRbenji]

Lens aperture stay wide open to allow max light for easy focusing. Pressing the DOF button adjusts the aperture according to your Av setting. To see how it works, simply set Av to a high f/stop, focus, then press the DOF and you will see the DOF increases + dimming of VF.

 

[Josephchlee]

Yes, I see the effect on the viewer and far objects become clearer and the dimming effect when the DOF button is pressed, but what does it mean, i.e. dimming effect indicates that camera is in focus to infinity from the object I pointed and focused earlier, based on the settings on my camera? Unfortunately, the manual is so unclear and did not explain what the dimming effect is for.

 

[GRbenji]

Yes, I see the effect on the viewer and far objects become clearer and the dimming effect when the DOF button is pressed, but what does it mean, i.e. dimming effect indicates that camera is in focus to infinity from the object I pointed and focused earlier, based on the settings on my camera? Unfortunately, the manual is so unclear and did not explain what the dimming effect is for.

The manual only teaches how to operate the camera. It doesn't teach photography.

The dimming when pressing the DOF button is because your Aperture is set smaller. Hence less light is coming thru the lens when DOF button is pressed.

As for clearer when viewing thru VF now, this is because you are viewing with smaller aperture, hence greater DOF.

 

[Josephchlee]

Thanks but looks like there is an answer to why the there is a dimming effect. Visited the WEB and the link explains, http://www.kenrockwell.com/tech/dof-button.htm .

Quoting the article, When the button is pressed the "Diaphragm blades close down partially to make the lens squint down to admit less light. By closing down the clear aperture through which light can pass it also brings some things into focus which otherwise would be blurry. It's exactly what happens when you squint to see something. "

That explains why some objects further away became clearer when I pressed the button, and yes I am beginning to understand how to use the button, very evident when the objects are magnified on the LCD when pressing. Now, that means that lots of experience is required to determine the difference and the hyperfocal calculation is still a must for accuracy otherwise the trial and error will take too long.

Will try the 1/3 suggestion then press button to check.

 

[daredevil123]

Actually not hard. Easy to do a guess and estimate. Hyperfocal distance will work further away. So if you are not sure, just focus on a spot further away than the calculated (or estimated) hyperfocal distance, and you can be sure that everything from at least half of the distance of that spot to infinity will be in focus.

Read more here:
http://darthbertz.blogspot.com/2010/07/getting-everything-into-focus.html

And BTW, in that tutorial, are also links to the Symbian version of dof calculator and the iphone one as well.

 

[Josephchlee]

Thanks I find the calculation on my iPhone very helpful, the button not very useful to Newbies

 

[bayusuputra]

one of the easier way is to use manual lenses with focus scale.. hehe..
can try dofmaster.com.. there is the calculator and template to make your own DOF scale for lenses which has none..

 

[Jennyfur80]

hi guys, i read up on the dof master and the dof calculator but still a little confused.

I am planning to shoot landscape eg a boat as the subject and background would be trees, water and sky.

The readings from the online calculator are:

Subject distance: 2 m. Assuming my camera is 2 meters from the boat or whatever i am shooting in the future.

Depth of field
Near limit: 0.28 m
Far limit: Infinity
Total: Infinite

In front of subject: 1.7 m
Behind subject: Infinite

Hyperfocal distance: 0.34 m
Circle of confusion: 0.019 mm

To get the maximum dof (everything sharp including fore/background), am I suppose to aim at the hyperfocal distance of 0.34m (or more)? If i imagine aiming at 0.34m, the focus point will not be on the boat which is 2m infront of my camera.

i am using a sigma 10-20mm that has the infinity logo on the distance scale. Not sure if i aim at the boat and then manual adjust to the infinity, will the result be the same?

Sometimes i get sharp the entire scene, sometimes subject sharp, background blurr.

Pls help me.

 

[daredevil123]

hi guys, i read up on the dof master and the dof calculator but still a little confused.

I am planning to shoot landscape eg a boat as the subject and background would be trees, water and sky.

The readings from the online calculator are:

Subject distance: 2 m. Assuming my camera is 2 meters from the boat or whatever i am shooting in the future.

Depth of field
Near limit: 0.28 m
Far limit: Infinity
Total: Infinite

In front of subject: 1.7 m
Behind subject: Infinite

Hyperfocal distance: 0.34 m
Circle of confusion: 0.019 mm

To get the maximum dof (everything sharp including fore/background), am I suppose to aim at the hyperfocal distance of 0.34m (or more)? If i imagine aiming at 0.34m, the focus point will not be on the boat which is 2m infront of my camera.

i am using a sigma 10-20mm that has the infinity logo on the distance scale. Not sure if i aim at the boat and then manual adjust to the infinity, will the result be the same?

Sometimes i get sharp the entire scene, sometimes subject sharp, background blurr.

Pls help me.

Your focus is supposed to be at 0.34m. doesn't mean the center of your frame have to be at the spot where it is 0.34m from you.

So, You can half press shutter and recompose... or you can use an available AF point. or you can use a tripod and use manual focus.

 

[DrSpock]

Joseph, if you are really so keen to learn here are some infos for you to try out

1. DOFMaster Hyperfocal Chart

2. Hyperfocal Focusing

Post some great pictures for us to see OK:thumbsup:

 

[Jennyfur80]

Your focus is supposed to be at 0.34m. doesn't mean the center of your frame have to be at the spot where it is 0.34m from you.

So, You can half press shutter and recompose... or you can use an available AF point. or you can use a tripod and use manual focus.

Thank you daredevil123, I will try out the suggested technique.

 

[daredevil123]

Thank you daredevil123, I will try out the suggested technique.

There are ways to estimate. No need to get it so accurate at 0.34m.

Read my article here for tips:
http://darthbertz.blogspot.com/2010/07/getting-everything-into-focus.html