Hyper Focusing: DX lens on FX body


bookwormm

New Member
Jun 8, 2010
145
0
0
#1
Hi everyone, I am currently using a D600 and Tokina 11-16 on FX mode for most of my landscape photos, but I haven't been using the hyper focal method to focus my shots so far. I have googled and searched the forum but I am still confused about this issue. How do I do the calculations for my case, a FX body and a DX lens? Hope fellow csers can shed some light on this topic?
 

brapodam

New Member
Jun 12, 2009
1,672
4
0
AMK
#2
Hi everyone, I am currently using a D600 and Tokina 11-16 on FX mode for most of my landscape photos, but I haven't been using the hyper focal method to focus my shots so far. I have googled and searched the forum but I am still confused about this issue. How do I do the calculations for my case, a FX body and a DX lens? Hope fellow csers can shed some light on this topic?
Focal length of a lens doesn't change, regardless of what camera you mount it on. If you're using, say 16mm on a FX body, calculate hyperfocal distance for 16mm on FX.

I don't really use hyperfocal distance though. I'm not too concerned if things far away are out of focus (unless the object far away is the main subject). Stuff that are far away are supposed to be not as sharp, so you can have a sense of depth. That's how your eyes see things. So unless you specifically have something in the background as a subject of interest, I'd rather focus on your main subject and not be too concerned about getting everything absolutely sharp. I usually also try to make sure my foreground is sharp, because I personally find it distracting when something in the foreground is blur.
 

bookwormm

New Member
Jun 8, 2010
145
0
0
#4
Focal length of a lens doesn't change, regardless of what camera you mount it on. If you're using, say 16mm on a FX body, calculate hyperfocal distance for 16mm on FX.

I don't really use hyperfocal distance though. I'm not too concerned if things far away are out of focus (unless the object far away is the main subject). Stuff that are far away are supposed to be not as sharp, so you can have a sense of depth. That's how your eyes see things. So unless you specifically have something in the background as a subject of interest, I'd rather focus on your main subject and not be too concerned about getting everything absolutely sharp. I usually also try to make sure my foreground is sharp, because I personally find it distracting when something in the foreground is blur.
I thought about that too, but the existing method I use to focus my shots is to open up to the widest, digital zoom all the way in and adjust the focus. What irritates me is the lag on d600 when I am making the adjustments and my images aren't as sharp as I thought they should be, which is the reason why I created this thread. Nevertheless you have just solved the big question mark I had for the longest time, thanks buddy!


Enter the required data and the table will auto-calculate for you

http://dofmaster.com/doftable.html
Thanks for the link! Great reference material!!
 

Octarine

Moderator
Staff member
Jan 3, 2008
12,518
31
48
Pasir Ris
#5
TS: if you use the calculator, just change the camera model from DX to FX, or the lens from FX to DX - and see the results.
 

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