Hi guys, when using big aperture, the DOF is veri low, but if u use a small aperture, the photos become underexpose. ( without using flash)
Anyway to resolve the problem?
Thanx
Anyway to resolve the problem?
Thanx
How to use Prime lens for events like weddings?
- Thread starter nickpower
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Bump up the ISO to 3200, shoot raw, underexpose one to two stops, and correct in post-pro. You can probably get away with 4R prints in BW.
AFAIK, if you need the DOF (eg table and group shots), external light source (eg flash) is a must.
AFAIK, if you need the DOF (eg table and group shots), external light source (eg flash) is a must.
You want to shoot avaliable light only? not easy you know?nickpower said:
To shoot with prime lens only you must know about the lighting condition and it limitation.
So first thing you must learn how to shoot wedding well first, when you have the confident already, than slowly build up you own style.
If you intend to use mostly primes for weddings U'll probably need two bodies one for something wide and another for mid-tele, at certain times u simply won't have enough time to change lenses. Hi guys,I when using big aperture, the DOF is veri low, but if u use a small aperture, the photos become underexpose If you are shooting available light try something short like 20-28mm open wide and go in closer to fill the frame the wide angles will have a wider DOF.
Low-light photography is not easy. Issues include:
DOF
Available light sources
Optimal use of ISO (and reason for using it)
Stability (tripod/monopod/handhold - when to use which)
Focal Range
White Balance (this is almost critical, as ambient lighting will have an immense impact on final product)
All of the above are related to each other one way or another. You have to be extremely sensitive to light source. For example, even indoors, some incandescent light source can be very substantial for shots, but the ambient lighting can be so prevalent that colour details and differentiation are lost. Reflective surfaces, colour of the light source, location, when and where you can use tripod/monopod, how low your shutter speed can go hand-held... There more I type, the more imtimidated I am about the challenges. To play safe, I would really go with 2 bodies. One with flash and zoom, the other to learn shooting with a prime. But then again, I will end up with 2 distinct styles, with very different photos showing the same place and people
DOF
Available light sources
Optimal use of ISO (and reason for using it)
Stability (tripod/monopod/handhold - when to use which)
Focal Range
White Balance (this is almost critical, as ambient lighting will have an immense impact on final product)
All of the above are related to each other one way or another. You have to be extremely sensitive to light source. For example, even indoors, some incandescent light source can be very substantial for shots, but the ambient lighting can be so prevalent that colour details and differentiation are lost. Reflective surfaces, colour of the light source, location, when and where you can use tripod/monopod, how low your shutter speed can go hand-held... There more I type, the more imtimidated I am about the challenges. To play safe, I would really go with 2 bodies. One with flash and zoom, the other to learn shooting with a prime. But then again, I will end up with 2 distinct styles, with very different photos showing the same place and people
catchlights said:
Can share more? I've always been a fan of available light photography. Had been reading what I could read from the net, but nothing comes close with someone sharing his experience.
low light photography without flash?
Hmmmm.....
1) F2.0 or bigger aperture
2) ISO 800 and above
3) wide angle lens. able to hand held without getting shaky hands. of course u cant helped about those things that are constantly moving.
4) shoot raw to help in getting more exposure back in PP.
:dunno:
Hmmmm.....
1) F2.0 or bigger aperture
2) ISO 800 and above
3) wide angle lens. able to hand held without getting shaky hands. of course u cant helped about those things that are constantly moving.
4) shoot raw to help in getting more exposure back in PP.
:dunno:
I would use a wide aperture lens (without flash) as my secondary and use a zoom with flash for most shots. But reflecting on my last shoot, I think I could cover an entire wedding with a 20/2.8 or 20/1.8 coupled with flash.
wow...seems like this is only for pros...so much things to consider. No wonder I rarely see photog without flash at weddings. 
shinken said:
I try to share.
While i cover weddings dinner, i set iso 800. Depends on lighing condition, you play with shutter speed. My aperture always at f2.8.
If still can handheld, good. If can't, put it down on something not shaky. this setup i only use while guest going off, and while have time to shoot funny stuff. no table to support your camera, LOOK FOR 1.
I have trained myself to shoot atleast 30% to 50% using existing light, available lights. Church wise, recently i have cover 1, 95% i don't use flash, and i printed out to give to couple. I felt without flash looks more moods.
Lastly, shoot more, more and more, you will suceed. I am still learning also, not easy, cos if you shooting a glass at dinner with available lights, and you shoot it 3 times, means you fail. i am very tough on myself, thats how i learn. Its my ricebowl.
smurfman said:
photos O lu lu called mood.. hahahhah
Btw shinken,
I always shoot as main and sole photographer, must give standard and formal pictures so most shots are with flash, only those less important, none critical ceremony, environment ambient or some couple portraits shots will use available lights, for available lights, just try to work within handheld speed or high enough to freeze subject movement. For metering, try spot metering and M mode, even that you may still have to shoot 5 or 6 shots just to get 1 right.
Hope this help.
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