Which mode should I use and should choose Single or Dymanic area? Still very new to photography. Please guide!.
How to test whether my D70 have backfocusing.
- Thread starter Kenji
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Take a picture at full opening (use A mode= aperture priority= you choose aperture yourself) and focus on something very distinct, make sure it is sharp in the viewfinder at the time of pressing the button. The view the image taken at the LCD screen and enlarge the focussed subject, it should be the same sharpness as when you looked through the finder....
Now, I have another question:
Do the current D70's sold in the shops have this problem? Heard it was only with the first batches?
Hong Sien
Now, I have another question:
Do the current D70's sold in the shops have this problem? Heard it was only with the first batches?
Hong Sien
So should I use Auto Focus or manual focus? And do I have to turn on the focus mode? The flower icon. Most first batch of D70 have back focusing. But I am not sure which batch it is cause I bought from MS color.
Hi,
Sorry, forgot to mention it: better use manual focus, this way, the camera will not focus on anything ELSE than that you focused on (provided you don't touch the lens anymore). Good luck! When did you buy the camera? If you have backfocusing problem, go back to Nikon, they will calibrate the thing for you.
Long ago I got a similar problem with the Pentax LX (not a digicam by the way), the mirror has to be adjusted slightly to give you the correct image (if the mirror is not aligned properly, it wll also give you a different focused area then the film/chip will 'see').
HS
Sorry, forgot to mention it: better use manual focus, this way, the camera will not focus on anything ELSE than that you focused on (provided you don't touch the lens anymore). Good luck! When did you buy the camera? If you have backfocusing problem, go back to Nikon, they will calibrate the thing for you.
Long ago I got a similar problem with the Pentax LX (not a digicam by the way), the mirror has to be adjusted slightly to give you the correct image (if the mirror is not aligned properly, it wll also give you a different focused area then the film/chip will 'see').
HS
Hi Esoteric,
Is that you?.....
Very difficult to check problem with pic like this....try focusing at something very close.....place camera on tripod. Comare iamge you see in finder and on the LCD screen after taking image. Best at full opening.....and close up (depth of field is less, and therefore easier to see if image is not focused properly)
Is that you?.....
Very difficult to check problem with pic like this....try focusing at something very close.....place camera on tripod. Comare iamge you see in finder and on the LCD screen after taking image. Best at full opening.....and close up (depth of field is less, and therefore easier to see if image is not focused properly)
es0teric said:
"AF area" modes:
single area AF : u select one out of the many AF point.
dynamic area AF : camera selects AF point for u based on its own AF sensor.
"AF" mode:
M: manual focus
S: single servo: when AF locks on a subject, the focussing stops.
C: continuous servo: when AF instantaneously locks onto a subject, it will track the subject ie if stationary subject-> tracking of course stops there. but if moving subject-> tracking carries on as long as subject is still moving.
which means it makes sense to use "S" mode and "single area AF" for stationary subjects and to use "C" mode and "dynamic area AF" for movign subjects.
[when in "C" mode and "dynamic area AF" , u can still press directly o nthe thumbpad (assuming it is unlocked) to shoose AF point as u fancy. ]
hongsien said:Hi Esoteric,
Is that you?.....
Very difficult to check problem with pic like this....try focusing at something very close.....place camera on tripod. Comare iamge you see in finder and on the LCD screen after taking image. Best at full opening.....and close up (depth of field is less, and therefore easier to see if image is not focused properly)
That's my idol, shiho Asaoka. I want to learn how to take this kind of shots. And I just master it. Larger aperture doing the job. Thanks to clive.
To clive. Regarding your signature, is there any place where can buy Trick 1 to Trick 3 VCD? I miss out part 2.
es0teric said:These are the 2 pic I just taken.
&
Is there any backfocusing?
the 2 pictures are very different. the top seems to be handheld and the bottom mounted on tripod? please specify.
2nd pic seems ok but zoom in nearer to the trophy shoot again. this time use your eyes with manual focus. then compare sharpness. but make sure you eyes is OK in the first place.
1st pic :
50.0 mm
1/30 sec, f/1.8
Mode: Av
Metering: Multi-segment
Exp comp: +1/3
White balance: Auto
Flash: Off
File size: 59KB
Image size: 425 x 640
Color profile: IEC 61966-2.1 Default RGB colour space - sRGB
2nd Pic
50.0 mm
1/30 sec, f/1.8
Mode: Av
Metering: Multi-segment
Exp comp: +1/3
White balance: Auto
Flash: Off
File size: 62KB
Image size: 640 x 425
Color profile: IEC 61966-2.1 Default RGB colour space - sRGB
Both is handheld. No tripod being use
50.0 mm
1/30 sec, f/1.8
Mode: Av
Metering: Multi-segment
Exp comp: +1/3
White balance: Auto
Flash: Off
File size: 59KB
Image size: 425 x 640
Color profile: IEC 61966-2.1 Default RGB colour space - sRGB
2nd Pic
50.0 mm
1/30 sec, f/1.8
Mode: Av
Metering: Multi-segment
Exp comp: +1/3
White balance: Auto
Flash: Off
File size: 62KB
Image size: 640 x 425
Color profile: IEC 61966-2.1 Default RGB colour space - sRGB
Both is handheld. No tripod being use
ahbeng said:
i think for checking on back focusing problem it's easier to focus on a 2D object say a scale of a ruler or texts of newspaper at 45deg...focus particularly a character on the newspaper or a scale on a ruler...tat's will b easier to check
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