how to shoot potrait of people in dark areas with perfect exposure?


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erictan8888

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Nov 9, 2004
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Singapore
hi,

i want to shoot a potrait of a person with the shenton way buildings behind as a backdrop...

problem is: with flash, person properly exposed, but background black.
use long exposure, building properly exposed, but person blur due to person move here and there.

tried: i tried to expose building first with shutter open for about 2 to 3 sec in bulb mode, then i quickly cover shutter with black card and ask person to move into position. Next i remove black card and close shutter with rear flash fired.

results: DISASTROUS failure !!!
you know what, the lights from the buildings penetrate the person... the person can be seen, but turn out like the person semi-transparent...lights can be seen through the person's body...ha ha ha ha :bsmilie:
the person did not manage to block out the lights where the person is standing....
so weird..... but kind of looked cool... fail until peng(4) still can laugh..hee hee :sweatsm:

anyway, is shooting building first, and then re-taking another shot with person and then use PS to crop out and paste person as second layer the way ? or any better way to use PS to solve this ?

is there anyway to do this using camera settings only and without PS, such that buildings and person are both properly exposed ?

pls advise....
thanks
 

Use hi iso, like 1600 on the camera, open large aperture.
 

erictan8888 said:
hi,

i want to shoot a potrait of a person with the shenton way buildings behind as a backdrop...

problem is: with flash, person properly exposed, but background black.
use long exposure, building properly exposed, but person blur due to person move here and there.

tried: i tried to expose building first with shutter open for about 2 to 3 sec in bulb mode, then i quickly cover shutter with black card and ask person to move into position. Next i remove black card and close shutter with rear flash fired.

results: DISASTROUS failure !!!
you know what, the lights from the buildings penetrate the person... the person can be seen, but turn out like the person semi-transparent...lights can be seen through the person's body...ha ha ha ha :bsmilie:
the person did not manage to block out the lights where the person is standing....
so weird..... but kind of looked cool... fail until peng(4) still can laugh..hee hee :sweatsm:

anyway, is shooting building first, and then re-taking another shot with person and then use PS to crop out and paste person as second layer the way ? or any better way to use PS to solve this ?

is there anyway to do this using camera settings only and without PS, such that buildings and person are both properly exposed ?

pls advise....
thanks

:bsmilie: you super creative yea~ but yup using high iso and big apertures will work together with a monpod or tripod for slightly longer exposures
 

erictan8888 said:
problem is: with flash, person properly exposed, but background black.
use long exposure, building properly exposed, but person blur due to person move here and there.

tried: i tried to expose building first with shutter open for about 2 to 3 sec in bulb mode, then i quickly cover shutter with black card and ask person to move into position. Next i remove black card and close shutter with rear flash fired.

consider this tweak to your method:

put your person in the picture while making the long exposure, but make sure that he/she is in a really really dark spot - minimize the person's exposure due to ambient light. your rear sync flash should then be able to capture the person with minimal 'ghosting', and since he/she has been standing there all along, you won't get through-the-body lights.

disclaimer - i haven't tried any of this before :)
 

expose for the shenton way background and then use the same exposure settings on your subject by adjusting your flash.
 

thanks all.... will try and let you know the outcome....

wow..... very fast replies all.... you all super on.... less then a few minutes all replies fly in liao...

cheers to all the super on experts and advisers.... hee hee :)
 

the subject shd minimise movement and loon until the exposure is complete ;)
varf said:
consider this tweak to your method:

put your person in the picture while making the long exposure, but make sure that he/she is in a really really dark spot - minimize the person's exposure due to ambient light. your rear sync flash should then be able to capture the person with minimal 'ghosting', and since he/she has been standing there all along, you won't get through-the-body lights.

disclaimer - i haven't tried any of this before :)
 

problem i the subject is a 3 year old kid.... hee hee :)
 

This where PS should come in :D Mount camera on tripod, set up the shot. Take two shot. One for the background or building then take another one with the subject which is the three year old kid. Then merge two shot in PS, by puting kid shot on the top layer and erase unwant part of the background for the background you want to show through.;)
 

What I will do is ask the person dont' move before flash. This is the settings

F8, ISO 400, 2" Shutter with Second Curtain flash.
 

singscott said:
This where PS should come in :D Mount camera on tripod, set up the shot. Take two shot. One for the background or building then take another one with the subject which is the three year old kid. Then merge two shot in PS, by puting kid shot on the top layer and erase unwant part of the background for the background you want to show through.;)
Kinda troublesome isn't it? Why not just fill flash + high ISO with large aperture. Must rely on PS meh?

tunster, that would only work if the subject listens to you. :)
 

Yes, set the camera to correctly expose the building, and use the flash to fill in the person. Set the flash power manually, or I guess e-TTL should work as well.
It's good if they continue standing still after the flash.
 

espn said:
Kinda troublesome isn't it? Why not just fill flash + high ISO with large aperture. Must rely on PS meh?

tunster, that would only work if the subject listens to you. :)

Of course the normal non PS method will work, long exposure, higher ISO, flash, tripod and ect. ect........ :what: But will it allow the subject a three kid to make funny face? Allow him to jump around? Run around the frame? Basicly do what a three year old will do :bsmilie: PS will able to do that if you know how and I already gave you the know how. ;)
 

singscott said:
Of course the normal non PS method will work, long exposure, higher ISO, flash, tripod and ect. ect........ :what: But will it allow the subject a three kid to make funny face? Allow him to jump around? Run around the frame? Basicly do what a three year old will do :bsmilie: PS will able to do that if you know how and I already gave you the know how. ;)
Why not? :think: It won't? :think:
 

Try the Rear Curtain sync function. Some camera does not come with it and you might need to do it manually. Time your exposure manually and in the last second before the curtain shuts, fire your flash manually against your subject.

You may not fully eliminate the blur movement by the subject depending on the ISO but rear curtain will put your subject "in front" of your blurry image.
 

singscott said:
This where PS should come in :D Mount camera on tripod, set up the shot. Take two shot. One for the background or building then take another one with the subject which is the three year old kid. Then merge two shot in PS, by puting kid shot on the top layer and erase unwant part of the background for the background you want to show through.;)

good idea.. if the background doesnt move (eg. wind and trees and stuff)
 

Dont see why not either. If ambient light on the kid is low, slow sync with flash should eliminate most of the problems. If the kid runs like mad, then perhaps you MAY see some building light shining through his body. If not, slow sync flash would work.

espn said:
Why not? :think: It won't? :think:
 

No need slow sync also. Flash + ISO + Aperture gets it for you. Unless the background is totally black and unilluminated, then no amount of ISO and aperture will get it for you.

Flash illuminates and so-called 'freezes' subject (never background).
Background is captured via high ISO (sensitivity on sensor) and larger aperture (more light).

Adding these up, you get your shot. No PS needed.
 

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