Handshake can be minimized by increasing the shutter speed. Here's why I think you're having problems.Originally posted by shawntim
I've got a problem with my shots. In AUTO, it's almost 80% crisp and clear.. but in Program mode and Aperture Priority Mode, I get blurred shots in 8 out of 10 shots. Manual mode is even worse.
What gives?
Originally posted by andretan
Your feet stance have to be correct. Right foot in front, left foot at the back to have proper balance.
Your camera-holding hand (right) should be tucked in to your torso, while the lens holding hand must support the lens of your SLR.
Before you fully press the shutter button, take a few deep breaths, and hold your breath, when you press the button down.
Originally posted by qhelix
Handshake can be minimized by increasing the shutter speed. Here's why I think you're having problems.
Program Mode: Basically the same as Auto Mode, only you have more control over your camera. Check whether the flash is active, if not then activate it. Also, using the sync flash will also result in slower shutter speeds compared to using the normal flash mode, so just be careful with that.
Arpeture Priority Mode: If your arpeture is set too high (or is it too low?), the shutter speed will change accordingly. Generally having a value of F8.0 will result in a slower shutter speed as compared to setting it to F2.8.
Manual Mode: Here you can manually adjust the shutter speed, so if the picture to blur, increase the shutter speed to say....1/40sec.
Well, hope this helps!
Originally posted by art2d2
Try not to zoom too much, zooming will also higher the risk of handshake. This is what I normally use, if I'm using the wide angle of 35mm, I will try not to use shutter speeds less than 1/30sec. If I'm at 80mm, I will normally use 1/90 or above.
No exact math for that. Just a guidelines: handheld speed is 1/focal length. e.g.: if focal length 50mm then the "safe" handheld speed is 1/60. At 200mm, it is 1/250. And 1/30 at 28mmOriginally posted by shawntim
is there a certain math for this ? I remember reading about a certain mathematical guideline telling how to judge (forgot which) setting based on how far the distance of your subject is..
Originally posted by tsdh
No exact math for that. Just a guidelines: handheld speed is 1/focal length. e.g.: if focal length 50mm then the "safe" handheld speed is 1/60. At 200mm, it is 1/250. And 1/30 at 28mm
That is just a common guidelines, which may vary depend on the shooting condition and the person.
Telling your camera not to use flash will definitely decrease the shutter speed. If you find your flash is too bright, you may be able to adjust the intensity of the flash depending on your camera, or at least decrease the exposure (forgot what it's called exactly).Originally posted by shawntim
I'm taking these shots in my room with an exposed florescent ceiling light. Subjects are on top of a shelf about 1.6m high. I did not use flash. Could it be the reason ? However, I recently tried with flash and found that my camera can go all the way up to 1/10000 without the LCD prompting for any "error", hence i think using the flash can solve. I'm using the inbuilt flash. AFAIK, i'm not using the SlowSync. just forced flash. There's no way to control the brightness or any other settings of the inbuilt flash is there?
I also realized the inbuilt flash is very harsh !
I took the shots without flash, some at zoom, which probably aggravated the blur. What is the average shutter speed fast enough to freeze shots fast enough despite handshake? 1/40? 1/50? or 1/60 ?
Originally posted by tsdh
No exact math for that. Just a guidelines: handheld speed is 1/focal length. e.g.: if focal length 50mm then the "safe" handheld speed is 1/60. At 200mm, it is 1/250. And 1/30 at 28mm
That is just a common guidelines, which may vary depend on the shooting condition and the person.
Originally posted by qhelix
Telling your camera not to use flash will definitely decrease the shutter speed. If you find your flash is too bright, you may be able to adjust the intensity of the flash depending on your camera, or at least decrease the exposure (forgot what it's called exactly).
Also, since you're using a digicam, just try your 1/1000sec setting and see how the pictures turn out and adjust accordingly.
Focal length of the lens you're using.Originally posted by shawntim
what do you mean by focal length? Do you mean the distance between the camera and the object ? 60mm means 6cm, cant be right ?
How can we determine the focal length?
Originally posted by shawntim
what do you mean by focal length? Do you mean the distance between the camera and the object ? 60mm means 6cm, cant be right ?
How can we determine the focal length?
Originally posted by shawntim
Digicams like 602 can modify intensity of internal flash ? Didn't find that in the manual..
You're using the Fuji S602Z? Well, I'm not sure whether you can adjust the flash or not, but if you can you should be able to find it somewhere in the menu settings.Originally posted by shawntim
without using flash, the shots are sharp, but dark. I'm unable to get a properly exposed shot, even after exposure correction. The lower shutter speeds allow more light, but at 1/20 speeds i cannt get a sharp shot.
Digicams like 602 can modify intensity of internal flash ? Didn't find that in the manual..