How to make Istana shots more interesting?

[ConnorMcLeod]

Hi all,

Most of the time, I shoot buildings either frontal or from side, and occasionally near its base.
Hope you guys can give me some tips on how to make the pix look more interesting (without risking my life like climbing on trees or sneak into the blocked areas )

Second question maybe more specific to 350D users. The colours of my pics tend to be dull, and even when switched between the predefined parameter set 1 and 2 I notice little differences. Do other 350D users use the predefined parameters or customer settings (sharpness, contrast etc.)? Care to share with me your settings? Is it my Skyline filters causing this effect?

1) Full Frontal

2) From the side

3) From below

 

[Astin]

If u want to use light to make it more interesting, dont shoot in mid day light, try to shoot in late afternoon or evening light...

 

[ConnorMcLeod]

If u want to use light to make it more interesting, dont shoot in mid day light, try to shoot in late afternoon or evening light...

Thanks. Regardless of lighting condition, what angles do you use to shoot buildings?

Re lighting, shot shadows of the arches before the guard chased me away (didn't realise all shots must be done outside of the building (i.e. no part of the building is above my head!)

and different composition to add in other elements:

 

[ConnorMcLeod]

Wonders if fish eye / super wide angle would help to make the building shots more interesting, since images are not what our naked eyes would see.

 

[solarii]

Yup a wide-angle or even a fish eye helps for architecture if you want something more unusual. But they have to be used with care, or you'll end up with cheesy shots.

Too bad they only allow photography outdoors... the columns and other details would make nice compositions! Sadly you've lost one of the most crucial ways of taking unique shots... being able to go up close through the corridors etc. Still you can make creative use of telephoto lenses!

Are you using the kit lens by the way? Colours from the 350D are usually more on the dull side on default settings...as is the case with all dSLRs. Some prefer a more natural look. You'll need to post process for optimum results. You could try increasing the saturation and contrast by using a custom parameter set if you want more punch straight out of the camera. Also adding a polarizer for this kind of shots helps, though I prefer an ND grad to get really dramatic skies.

 

[ConnorMcLeod]

Are you using the kit lens by the way? Colours from the 350D are usually more on the dull side on default settings...as is the case with all dSLRs. Some prefer a more natural look. You'll need to post process for optimum results. You could try increasing the saturation and contrast by using a custom parameter set if you want more punch straight out of the camera. Also adding a polarizer for this kind of shots helps, though I prefer an ND grad to get really dramatic skies.

Thanks for your comments.

All pictures attached are taken with kit lens 'cos of the lighter weight and zoom. Didn't try the 50mm 'cos its probably not wide enough.

Indeed I was thinking a ND or Gradual filter since most of the time I end up shooting around midday (not smart choice of time, but its not always up to me), and the sky + top of building may appear washed out. Can the same Cokin filter (holder) fix on lens with different thread size, say 52mm, 58mm and 67mm?

Next time I also try the CPL.

 

[solarii]

Thanks for your comments.

All pictures attached are taken with kit lens 'cos of the lighter weight and zoom. Didn't try the 50mm 'cos its probably not wide enough.

Indeed I was thinking a ND or Gradual filter since most of the time I end up shooting around midday (not smart choice of time, but its not always up to me), and the sky + top of building may appear washed out. Can the same Cokin filter (holder) fix on lens with different thread size, say 52mm, 58mm and 67mm?

Next time I also try the CPL.

Yup the Cokin P series comes in 3 parts: The filter, the filter holder, the ring adaptor. The only part you need to change as the filter diameter changes is the ring adaptor, which they make for different sizes. The holder will fit on any adaptor. But be warned : the front element of the kit lens rotates during focusing, so you'll have to hold onto the holder when you activate auto-focus. A bit of a hassle.

P.S. Its graduated, not gradual filter.

I'm thinking of getting a cokin grad filter kit myself, so if you do go down to cathay, do let my know the price/stock they have available. Thanks!