How to develop your own B&W photos


nstclicks

Member
Nov 23, 2008
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1. For chemicals, good enough. Also need to buy developing tank and dark bag.
2. All have their advantages/disadvantages. HC-110 1:100 is quite forgiving and can be used at Singapore room temperature. See the instructions at the beginning of this thread.
3. Any film is fine.
4. If you do room temp HC-110 then no need thermometer. Otherwise, you can try getting some cheap digital thermometer like those advertised on ebay for $5. I've never tried, but on paper, they look like they could do the job.
 

oceanpriest

Senior Member
Apr 24, 2010
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1. For chemicals, good enough. Also need to buy developing tank and dark bag.
2. All have their advantages/disadvantages. HC-110 1:100 is quite forgiving and can be used at Singapore room temperature. See the instructions at the beginning of this thread.
3. Any film is fine.
4. If you do room temp HC-110 then no need thermometer. Otherwise, you can try getting some cheap digital thermometer like those advertised on ebay for $5. I've never tried, but on paper, they look like they could do the job.
thank you for replying :)
 

reyreina

New Member
Dec 26, 2008
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I 'm thinking to start developing my own b&w photos. There are few questions I want to ask:

1. If I purchase developer and fixer only, is it enough?
2. Any difference between Rodinal, HC110 and DD-X? I heard DD-X is good for faster film and Rodinal is for slower film.
3. What b&w film will you recommend?
4. What thermometer do you guys use? Any cheaper alternative? Ruby sells it for $20.

Srry if I ask too many questions :)
1. some people use stop bath, some dont.
2. other than film types, developer types also affect your final, for eg, contrast and grain texture. all developer can be used, so it all boils down to your preference. you can check on the net what each developer/combo will yield.
3. tri-x, hp5 is quite popular. delta and tmax for higher speed.
4. any thermometer will work. baking store will have cheap ones i guess. i use one from ikea.
 

oceanpriest

Senior Member
Apr 24, 2010
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1. some people use stop bath, some dont.
2. other than film types, developer types also affect your final, for eg, contrast and grain texture. all developer can be used, so it all boils down to your preference. you can check on the net what each developer/combo will yield.
3. tri-x, hp5 is quite popular. delta and tmax for higher speed.
4. any thermometer will work. baking store will have cheap ones i guess. i use one from ikea.
thanks reyreina. yest I went to ikea, but couldn't find any thermometer there. is it at baking/glassware section?
 

reyreina

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Dec 26, 2008
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eh i cannot rmb, dont even rmb the price, probably less than 10. its electronic, rectangular and black, the sensor bar is a long 90degree bent metal. can be used to check temp of cooked meat too =x
 

ratboy

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Sep 10, 2002
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1. For chemicals, good enough. Also need to buy developing tank and dark bag.
2. All have their advantages/disadvantages. HC-110 1:100 is quite forgiving and can be used at Singapore room temperature. See the instructions at the beginning of this thread.
3. Any film is fine.
4. If you do room temp HC-110 then no need thermometer. Otherwise, you can try getting some cheap digital thermometer like those advertised on ebay for $5. I've never tried, but on paper, they look like they could do the job.
have not done any dev in a long while
but if i remember correctly, i used to use Rodinal at 1:100 room temp
not much agitation needed, just for the initial minute, then let film soak approx 6 mins : )

Its good to have a thermometer as room temp varies throughout the day, month , years etc.
keep records and work out a formula, then you can "compensate" for difference in temp with shorter or longer dev timing.
 

NazgulKing

Senior Member
Nov 30, 2009
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I have a problem that has turned up one or two times. Sometimes when I develop my film, some of the tracks on the side of the film shows up on the film. Does that mean i didn't reel it into the reels properly? Or was it because I accidentally let some light in from the two holes in the dark room bag? I know i took my hand out once... sigh...
 

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zk-diq

Senior Member
Jan 1, 2009
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Telok Blangah
I have a problem that has turned up one or two times. Sometimes when I develop my film, some of the tracks on the side of the film shows up on the film. Does that mean i didn't reel it into the reels properly? Or was it because I accidentally let some light in from the two holes in the dark room bag? I know i took my hand out once... sigh...
You already asnwer yourself. :)
 

greekgecko

New Member
Jun 11, 2010
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Hi, I've got a question about pushing development time.

Recently, I accidentally shot a roll of TriX400 at ISO1600. My usual development time for ISO400 is 5.5-6 mins, what should be my development time if I'm pushing for this roll? Are there any rules when deciding the time to increase?

I've just started developing and doing prints myself, I must say it is super addictive :D
 

oceanpriest

Senior Member
Apr 24, 2010
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Hi, I've got a question about pushing development time.

Recently, I accidentally shot a roll of TriX400 at ISO1600. My usual development time for ISO400 is 5.5-6 mins, what should be my development time if I'm pushing for this roll? Are there any rules when deciding the time to increase?

I've just started developing and doing prints myself, I must say it is super addictive :D
You can refer to this site :)
http://www.digitaltruth.com/devchart.php
 

greekgecko

New Member
Jun 11, 2010
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I always refer to that site, I just didn't notice the push processing page.

Thanks! :)
 

singsoong

New Member
Nov 5, 2008
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Does the brand of fixer/stop bath/wetting agent matter that much?
 

knight84

New Member
Mar 1, 2009
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West Side
These are my conditions and conditions can some one pls comment.

with hc110 1:125
Hp5+
Ei 400
Time 1 hr 25 mins.

Result under by 1/2 stop

Hc110 1:85
Hp5+
ei 1600
Time 1 hr 25 min

Results under by 1 stop.

Based on the intial post 1:100 at iso 1600 for 20 mins. My results dont add up. Any suggestions?
 

anerjee

Member
Nov 9, 2009
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What temperature are you doing your processing in?

Also, at 1:125, the dilution is so low that I imagine the developer is exhausted far sooner that 1.5 hrs.

I have gotten decent results using 1:100, EI 1600 for 18 mins (31 degrees C).
 

knight84

New Member
Mar 1, 2009
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I do ar night so i guess temp at about 25 to 27 nvr measure though.

May be a case of exhaustion. Will try 1:50 and see what i get
 

Ansel

Senior Member
Apr 30, 2003
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Be warned that such long wet times will cause the emulsion to become really soft, so you should be careful when you squeegy, or dont squeegy at all, due to risk of scratching the emulsion.
 

georgiekissagirl

New Member
Feb 17, 2012
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Hello, Iam just starting into B&W and into darkroom and would like to ask some questions.
May i ask what is the "proper" washing method for washing film for "ARCHIVAL"?
Yes, and i have read through countless threads and people even have their own version of the famous Ilford washing method.

After looking at the photos posted by Nikkornos over in the mf/lf forum, it has kinda startled me to question my techniques which i have learn.

http://www.clubsnap.com/forums/medium-large-format/964832-share-some-mf-photo-part-6-a-48.html#post8067424

Do i need to soak the film? How long do i need to soak it for? How many inversions maybe 5/10/20? Do i need to HCA, what does optional mean? if i dont use HCA, will my film rot in 5 years time?

Maybe a general guide and lots of tips would help. The last thread or developing guide written by Streetshooter is in 2003.
Maybe some shifus can share their techniques?

Many thanks,
Georgie
 

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nstclicks

Member
Nov 23, 2008
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Strange... I do HP5+ in HC-110 1:100 at room temp for 7.5 min at EI 400 and get acceptable results.

These are my conditions and conditions can some one pls comment.

with hc110 1:125
Hp5+
Ei 400
Time 1 hr 25 mins.

Result under by 1/2 stop

Hc110 1:85
Hp5+
ei 1600
Time 1 hr 25 min

Results under by 1 stop.

Based on the intial post 1:100 at iso 1600 for 20 mins. My results dont add up. Any suggestions?