Help with MF + AF


#1
Hello!

anyone care to advice?

the incident as below,

i was trying to capture my model in different position, with the same still background, with my camera on tripod, I always depend on my AF, whenever i shoot, and i focus on my model's eye..however, for this case, the model face aren't all within the focus point boxes,
i tried to shoot it in Manual Focus, but the timing wasn't allow me to shoot and enlarge it in to see whether its is sharp or out of focus for too many times, and i am having hard time to shoot in MF, just can't seem to get it right, it looks sharp in the view finder, but turn out blur. :(

is there anyway to resolve the problem? or i just have to keep shooting to get the hang of the MF?

thanks a million!
 

dingaroo

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Dec 6, 2009
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#2
Use AF lock?

Focus on the model the specific point you want, press AF Lock and hold, recompose and press shutter button and release the AF Lock.

HTH.

Cheers!
 

aspenx

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Aug 10, 2008
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#3
You can try LASIK (assuming you don't have perfect vision right now), calibrate your diopter properly and also get a magnifier for your viewfinder.

I also find that it's easier to focus manually with longer lenses than wide angles.
 

#4
Thanks for the advice,
goggled that actually, :)
but my problem is, the model is not in the focus point box. All the focus point are at the centre of the frame, but my model is out from the focus point area.

Use AF lock?

Focus on the model the specific point you want, press AF Lock and hold, recompose and press shutter button and release the AF Lock.

HTH.

Cheers!
 

#5
thanks for dropping by...
I am asking for advice, not sarcasm tho. or perhaps you are just joking. you can let me know, else i will get it the wrong way. :)

You can try LASIK (assuming you don't have perfect vision right now), calibrate your diopter properly and also get a magnifier for your viewfinder.
 

sabee

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Mar 12, 2009
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#7
Depending on how narrow your DOF is, focus-recompose might not work so well. On some cameras, you can try zooming in on live view (5x magnification) and check that the portion over the subject is in focus after MF, but this method is slow and cumbersome. If you shoot in MF often its probably best to get a split focusing screen to assist you.
 

#8
Thanks for the comments,
for such case, my aperture was on F22, as i need everything sharp...
focus and recompose doesnt really work, as i am on tripod, i need the same still bg..
and i dont have such luxury to have a screen to help me tho

guess i just have to take my time for the MF then. :)

thanks!

Depending on how narrow your DOF is, focus-recompose might not work so well. On some cameras, you can try zooming in on live view (5x magnification) and check that the portion over the subject is in focus after MF, but this method is slow and cumbersome. If you shoot in MF often its probably best to get a split focusing screen to assist you.
 

ovaltinemilo

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Sep 12, 2009
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#11
I think if thin dof is preferred then you will be having big problem doing MF by focusing in a focus bracket and recompose...if you are shooting with studio light, can possbly try stopping down abit more...focus in a bracket, check tt focus confirmed(not by judging from the viewfinder-nv accurate unless you use a split prism), take care to recompose...shoot then magnify fully to check briefly...

if you can afford to stop down, I would say...focus on the model's nose instead of eyes if you do MF..:bsmilie:
 

ortega

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Nov 2, 2004
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#12
if your subject does not move in and out of the plane of focus then use MF
and with your aperture at f22 you can just focus once and shoot without refocusing

it depends on the amount of DOF you have and the subject
i even used this method with sports, it is called prefocusing
 

ovaltinemilo

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#13
sorry that I din see f22...with that..I would really think focus the model's nose...or something that gives a plane of focus slightly closer to you, from the model's eyes...
 

Oct 29, 2007
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#14
You can try LASIK (assuming you don't have perfect vision right now), calibrate your diopter properly and also get a magnifier for your viewfinder.

I also find that it's easier to focus manually with longer lenses than wide angles.
i second this. i seldom put on my specs during my daily life, only when i take events using MF. when u have ur perfect vision, u will have a better time doin MF cuz u dont have to depend on the Camera's Indication on Focus. so u dont have to depend on the focus points, u can have the subject near to the corner of the frame and still have it in focus. Just turn the focus out and in to the sharpest and snap. this may need a lil practice but u'll get the hang of it real fast. Trust your eyes. =)

my 2 cents :D

edit: this maybe suitable for thin dof only. if u're taking f22 den i suggest u follow ortega's method =) CHEERS!
 

Last edited:

Rashkae

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Nov 28, 2005
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#15
for such case, my aperture was on F22, as i need everything sharp...
At F22, you're already suffering from diffraction. I wouldn't go smaller than f/16.
 

aspenx

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#16
thanks for dropping by...
I am asking for advice, not sarcasm tho. or perhaps you are just joking. you can let me know, else i will get it the wrong way. :)
I kid you not.

It's what the serious professionals do. For me, I'm fine with the last 2 steps. It also helps that you get a camera with a sufficiently big and bright viewfinder.
 

aspenx

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Aug 10, 2008
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#17
i second this. i seldom put on my specs during my daily life, only when i take events using MF. when u have ur perfect vision, u will have a better time doin MF cuz u dont have to depend on the Camera's Indication on Focus. so u dont have to depend on the focus points, u can have the subject near to the corner of the frame and still have it in focus. Just turn the focus out and in to the sharpest and snap. this may need a lil practice but u'll get the hang of it real fast. Trust your eyes. =)

my 2 cents :D

edit: this maybe suitable for thin dof only. if u're taking f22 den i suggest u follow ortega's method =) CHEERS!
You don't exactly NEED perfect vision to do this. It's just that perfect vision makes calibration less important / easier.

I don't wear specs when I take photos and I sure don't have perfect vision.
 

aspenx

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Aug 10, 2008
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#18
Thanks for the comments,
for such case, my aperture was on F22, as i need everything sharp...
focus and recompose doesnt really work, as i am on tripod, i need the same still bg..
and i dont have such luxury to have a screen to help me tho

guess i just have to take my time for the MF then. :)

thanks!
I don't think you will get anything to be sharp at f/22 unless you are using a view camera or one of those more exotic gear.

If you can afford a tripod, I'm sure you can afford the screen too. It's about ~S$70 from OP with installation. There will be some disadvantages that come along with the screen though.

Firstly, the split-prism is only in the centre so you will still end up pointing your camera to position your model in the centre when you want to focus. Secondly, the viewfinder will get noticeably dimmer, which I couldn't stand with slower lenses.
 

Oct 29, 2007
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#19
You don't exactly NEED perfect vision to do this. It's just that perfect vision makes calibration less important / easier.

I don't wear specs when I take photos and I sure don't have perfect vision.
thanks for rephrasing =) yea just less impt, most importantly just practice =D
 

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