HC110 Stand Development solution G


Nikkornos

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Like to share one stand development data for Shanghai GP100 film

HC110 5ml to 600cc water at 20C (Ansel Adams 1:119 ratio)

Kodak 400TX 18 min @ 20C
Shanghai 4X5 30-35min @ 20C
Fuji Acros 20 min @ 20C

10 second slow agitation, per 5 minutes.

Good details in dark sections. Over exposed section does not burned out.
 

sinned79

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never try this ratio before, usually i use the standard 1:9 B. will give it a try next time :D

u got the data sheet for 24C?
 

zenesh

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Jan 27, 2005
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I think I have done longer

1:100 room temp water. 30 minutes.

A minute of inversions then let it stand.

New triX exposed at 1600
 

Riotbmx

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zenesh said:
I think I have done longer

1:100 room temp water. 30 minutes.

A minute of inversions then let it stand.

New triX exposed at 1600
Is the timing for Tmax 400 the same?
 

Nikkornos

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Is the timing for Tmax 400 the same?
Ansel Adams use Solution G at 20C for 18 minutes for TMax.
His inversion is once per 5 minute very gentle.

Note that I am using the B&W film for scanning/DSLR copy, so slightly less developing is better.
 

Nikkornos

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For Fuji Acros the development time using Solution H is only 9 minutes. Too long film may be too dense, and scanning gives a too bright effect.
 

Nikkornos

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Hi 24 C the grain start to appear? I have data for Fuji Acros 100:

18C 11 minutes
20C 9 minutes
22C 7.5 minutes

Solution B just divide by 2. Anything below 5 minutes, very unstable and can have uneven development.
 

Riotbmx

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What's the developing time you guys use for Tri-x +2 stop for HC-110 B? I get e few different timings from my search results...
 

crispy12

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I usually use 1:100 at room temp (30 deg), dev time 14 mins for Tri-X@400. Agitate 30s in beginning, 30sec in middle.
 

paapoopa

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May 25, 2006
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how long did you soak the gp100 shanghai? with the ansel adams ratio?
 

Nikkornos

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how long did you soak the gp100 shanghai? with the ansel adams ratio?
Ok, read my Zone system exposure first.

If you expose film as is at ASA 100 zone 5, assuming normal contrast.

9.5ml HC110 into 600ml water, chilled to about 19C
Develop 30 minutes, rotate slowly about 5 s every 5 minutes.

The tonality is very nice. I have my old house taken and shall post later.
 

anerjee

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How do you keep the developer at 20C for 18 min? Water bath is required, but then you need to keep adding ice to maintain the temperature. Is there any science behind this, or just experience?

Like to share one stand development data for Shanghai GP100 film

HC110 5ml to 600cc water at 20C (Ansel Adams 1:119 ratio)

Kodak 400TX 18 min @ 20C
Shanghai 4X5 30-35min @ 20C
Fuji Acros 20 min @ 20C

10 second slow agitation, per 5 minutes.

Good details in dark sections. Over exposed section does not burned out.
 

Nikkornos

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Oct 31, 2008
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How do you keep the developer at 20C for 18 min? Water bath is required, but then you need to keep adding ice to maintain the temperature. Is there any science behind this, or just experience?
1. Pre soak film in -15 C water 3 min (put about 6 ice cubes in 600ml water)

2. Pour the black cold water into a plastic square container as water bath. save the cold water. Use a thermometer to monitor at below 18C

3. Prepared the developer in 600ml (or 300ml) at 20C

4. Pour the developer into the tank and monitor the temp.
Since the film and internal already chilled down to below 20C, the developer temp will not change much

5. Soak tank in the water bath. monitor both external and internal.

6. add ice to external to keep the tank chilled. Internal is still at 20c
check very 5 min - with experience, you can trim better

7. temp may climb to 21C, but its still ok.

8. If internal temp climb too much you can throw half s small ice cube into tank. Won't affect concentration too much.

9. Since you agitate the tank once every 5 min, to reduce grain, you can do the temp check before agitation.
 

Last edited:

lualua

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20 degrees is an average developing temperature. Ie for a 7 to 8 min development, I pour in the soup at 19 degrees and it comes out at around 21.
 

sfoto100

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Nov 29, 2009
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Like to share one stand development data for Shanghai GP100 film

HC110 5ml to 600cc water at 20C (Ansel Adams 1:119 ratio)

Kodak 400TX 18 min @ 20C
Shanghai 4X5 30-35min @ 20C
Fuji Acros 20 min @ 20C

10 second slow agitation, per 5 minutes.

Good details in dark sections. Over exposed section does not burned out.
i tried it on 6 sheets of sh100 films yday..

roughly 1:119 (about 23-25ml hc110 into about 2400ml of water, i pour too much by mistake, it should be 20ml)
due to it being more concentrated, i dev for 15min.. water at 18 degree celcius.. mild agitation every 15 min

all the negatives look different from what i usually see.. certainly details are all preserved i guess.. contrast is not high , so i think it is good for low end scanner which can't handle high density.. am i right?

but i think to do wet print using such negative will certainly require burn n dodge ...

maybe this is for people who want details and yet don't know how to make use of zone system? so he need to get the zone by dodge and burn?
 

maxilite

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Apr 5, 2009
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I usually use 1:100 at room temp (30 deg), dev time 14 mins for Tri-X@400. Agitate 30s in beginning, 30sec in middle.
does amount of agitation affect the development rate?

I've tried 2 rolls last week, also at 1:100 (5ml in 500ml) and room temp (this might be a variable, most likely 27-30 degrees C).
My development time for Tri-X shot at ISO 400 was 12.30 and 11.30 mins. both were overdeveloped/overexposed. the 11.30mins 1 seemed to be better (nearer to normal exposure).
However, i agitated 30 secs at the 1st min and 5-10 secs every minute thereafter. (this is the only thing i noticed was different between mine and yours).
I used a stop solution, so there should be no error in failing to wash away all residual developing fluid.
 

crispy12

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Sep 24, 2011
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does amount of agitation affect the development rate?

I've tried 2 rolls last week, also at 1:100 (5ml in 500ml) and room temp (this might be a variable, most likely 27-30 degrees C).
My development time for Tri-X shot at ISO 400 was 12.30 and 11.30 mins. both were overdeveloped/overexposed. the 11.30mins 1 seemed to be better (nearer to normal exposure).
However, i agitated 30 secs at the 1st min and 5-10 secs every minute thereafter. (this is the only thing i noticed was different between mine and yours).
I used a stop solution, so there should be no error in failing to wash away all residual developing fluid.
Yes the amount of agitation affects it a lot, if you're turning every minute then the timing should be closer to around 7 minutes I think. Most timings from massive dev chart are with regular agitation. Haven't done that way for a while as i find it quite hard to get consistent results which such short times (shorter than usual because I don't chill my water)

This is more of a semi-stand development meaning minimal agitation. Stand development is usually 1hr dev with no agitation.
 

raytoei

Senior Member
Jan 14, 2010
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i find that if use HC-110 in 1+100 dilution,
then the time for most box speed film is around 20mins.
i like the film to be a bit overdeveloped, and a bit overexposed.

if i use Rodinal in 1+100, then most film should be okay for 25 - 30mins.

By stand, i usually do a 5-turn agitation every 10 -15 mins,
this is to prevent the bottom side of the film to be overdeveloped
than the top side, a bit like a graduated filter added if not agitated.

A bit off-topic, but i noticed some folks have sort of standardized
development time regardless of film. For example, if you read up
on Ralph Gibson, he develops in 1+50 in rodinal and always 10-11mins
at 20c regardless of Trix 200 or 400 iso.

I recently started developing in D-76 similarly, for box speed, usually 6mins@30c
in 1+1 dilution regardless of film (Polypan F, Fomapan 400, Kentmere 400, APX100).
For push, i overdevelop it at 10mins@30c in 1+1 dlution. I know it is heresy but after
a while, i stop worrying about development time and just focus on consistency.
Still experimenting, so far so good, only film that didn't work was Ilford 3200@1600.
I developed at 6mins and it was underdeveloped.

raytoei
 

Last edited:

Nikkornos

Senior Member
Oct 31, 2008
3,428
2
0
Singapore/Asia
i find that if use HC-110 in 1+100 dilution,
then the time for most box speed film is around 20mins.
i like the film to be a bit overdeveloped, and a bit overexposed.

if i use Rodinal in 1+100, then most film should be okay for 25 - 30mins.

By stand, i usually do a 5-turn agitation every 10 -15 mins,
this is to prevent the bottom side of the film to be overdeveloped
than the top side, a bit like a graduated filter added if not agitated.

A bit off-topic, but i noticed some folks have sort of standardized
development time regardless of film. For example, if you read up
on Ralph Gibson, he develops in 1+50 in rodinal and always 10-11mins
at 20c regardless of Trix 200 or 400 iso.

I recently started developing in D-76 similarly, for box speed, usually 6mins@30c
in 1+1 dilution regardless of film (Polypan F, Fomapan 400, Kentmere 400, APX100).
For push, i overdevelop it at 10mins@30c in 1+1 dlution. I know it is heresy but after
a while, i stop worrying about development time and just focus on consistency.
Still experimenting, so far so good, only film that didn't work was Ilford 3200@1600.
I developed at 6mins and it was underdeveloped.

raytoei
recently started on 135mm Tri X

1:119 at 20C developed by just slight agitation first 10s and then -> 60min

Very good details.