Flash for Wedding


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that one have to go on that day and see already. the last time I tried to bounce, i think the angle is not right , still can see a bit of shadows behind the subjects ... probably take the advice of some here who say point 60 degrees..

at home go try it with your ceiling, but with bounce flash, less likely make mistake
 

SB-600 good enough... you want faster recycling times, use Lithium batteries......
 

that one have to go on that day and see already. the last time I tried to bounce, i think the angle is not right , still can see a bit of shadows behind the subjects ... probably take the advice of some here who say point 60 degrees..

go dig out ur physics textbooks..refresh on how light travels..make sure the reflected/bounce light just fall right at ur subjects..cutting excess light fall off behind ur subjects, will cut down the shadows..if reflected/bounce light falls short..subject will be underexpose..:bsmilie:

another method is tilt vertical straight up with a bounce card to throw light forward..but ceiling height must watch out..:sweat:
 

go dig out ur physics textbooks..refresh on how light travels..make sure the reflected/bounce light just fall right at ur subjects..cutting excess light fall off behind ur subjects, will cut down the shadows..if reflected/bounce light falls short..subject will be underexpose..:bsmilie:

another method is tilt vertical straight up with a bounce card to throw light forward..but ceiling height must watch out..:sweat:

too bad last time I take Chem/Bio, never take physics :(
 

When in doubt,

safest indoor flash setting :

ISO 400, f/5.6, 1/60s : DIRECT FLASH.

The subject sure kanna one ....but background kanna or not, no garrentee.

Good luck and enjoy :)


DT :)
 

I used a DIY bounce card for my brother's wedding and it works fine (for my standard) and I am not pro so standard not that high. I think both the SB-600 and SB-800 works fine with the bounce card. Hope this helps... Just go grab the flash before hand and do some indoor shoot to get used to the behaviour and gain some confidence.... And don't forget to post your photo for us to enjoy... happy shooting...

http://forums.clubsnap.org/showthread.php?t=221527&highlight=diy+bounce+card
 

When in doubt,

safest indoor flash setting :

ISO 400, f/5.6, 1/60s : DIRECT FLASH.

The subject sure kanna one ....but background kanna or not, no garrentee.

Good luck and enjoy :)


DT :)

direct flash setting? -3?

cannot la, bounce better, if not bounce card.
 

When in doubt,

safest indoor flash setting :

ISO 400, f/5.6, 1/60s : DIRECT FLASH.

The subject sure kanna one ....but background kanna or not, no garrentee.

Good luck and enjoy :)


DT :)

uh...provided u always shoot at a same distance away from ur subjects..:bsmilie:
 

I have some queries too, hope someone can enlighten me too.

1) For under shades and outdoor shots where fill flash is required, would it be better to use a bounce card at 60 degree or to use a omnibounce?

2) In situations where there's insufficient lights, but there's no walls, should I be using omnibounce or bounce card to diffuse the light?
 

I have some queries too, hope someone can enlighten me too.

1) For under shades and outdoor shots where fill flash is required, would it be better to use a bounce card at 60 degree or to use a omnibounce?

2) In situations where there's insufficient lights, but there's no walls, should I be using omnibounce or bounce card to diffuse the light?

Simple. Ask yourself, can the light hit the subject sufficiently to fill up enough for your liking and your needs. If so, then go ahead with either choice.

Same for #2.

Remember it all depends on the guide number of your flash, distance to subject and how much you need to light up in relation to your ISO choice, aperture choice and also shutter speed needed.
 

You're right. There's nothing wrong. But if there's a better alternative why not?

Results are just... well. Just not as good. :)
 

Simple. Ask yourself, can the light hit the subject sufficiently to fill up enough for your liking and your needs. If so, then go ahead with either choice.

Same for #2.

Remember it all depends on the guide number of your flash, distance to subject and how much you need to light up in relation to your ISO choice, aperture choice and also shutter speed needed.

Yup I got you... but the problem is I have not gotten an omnibounce, was wondering if it's neccessary to purchase one :bsmilie:
 

Yup I got you... but the problem is I have not gotten an omnibounce, was wondering if it's neccessary to purchase one :bsmilie:
when there is no wall or ceiling to bounce off, and you are shooting a human as subject, omnibounce has no use, but if you ever see people using it this way, either they don't know or too lazy to remove it.
 

when there is no wall or ceiling to bounce off, and you are shooting a human as subject, omnibounce has no use, but if you ever see people using it this way, either they don't know or too lazy to remove it.

They may want to use it as a minature LSPJ... :bsmilie: :bsmilie: Bounce the light from internally... :bsmilie:

Seriously, I'd only keep a omnibounce on for places without a surface to bounce on for one purpose, to shoot the flash directly, but at a diffused power. ;)
 

Would that work better? Or would dialing in -ve compensation be a better option.

It's like a bit too small to create that softbox effect.
 

Would that work better? Or would dialing in -ve compensation be a better option.

It's like a bit too small to create that softbox effect.

It might... but I'm lazy and the slightly diffused effects was enough for me.
 

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