Fixing a Nikon D80 with err problem


fatigue

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Sep 26, 2005
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#1
This camera maybe a bit old (for CS standard ) but I’m sure there’s still some good photographers out there still using this camera

You have tried cleaning the camera and lens contacts, tried a different lens but still the “err” message keep flashing.

The camera

On the background is my DIY parts container :bsmilie:

Remove the screws






I just realized I still got this Nikon 5700 inside my dry cabinet so I gave the camera some simple exercise
 

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Likes: kandinsky

fatigue

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#9
The gear also serves as a switch to tell the microprocessor the position/status of the mirror and shutter mechanism.
In this camera, there's oil on the switch causing no electrical contact


Here's 2 gears, one is good, one is not so good. Guess which one is not so good and why :)


Dedicated to a friend, Zul (CS nick: r00ki3)
 

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bigrizz

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Nov 20, 2012
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#10
Great post! Really informative. I'm about to try fixing my D80 in the same way that is exhibiting exactly the same problem. The problem I have is that I'm on a work assignment for a few months away from home so I don't have my soldering iron with me. I notice that you unsoldered the aperture control unit. Do you think you could have repaired the camera without using a soldering iron? I don't want to try, only to discover 80% of the way through that I need my soldering iron.

Has anyone else tried repairing their D80 and managed to do it without using a soldering iron?

Look forward to your reply.
 

fatigue

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#11
Great post! Really informative. I'm about to try fixing my D80 in the same way that is exhibiting exactly the same problem. The problem I have is that I'm on a work assignment for a few months away from home so I don't have my soldering iron with me. I notice that you unsoldered the aperture control unit. Do you think you could have repaired the camera without using a soldering iron? I don't want to try, only to discover 80% of the way through that I need my soldering iron.

Has anyone else tried repairing their D80 and managed to do it without using a soldering iron?

Look forward to your reply.
There are 4 wires (orange, blue, red and black) need to desolder (see 1st picture of post #7)
Then there's another black wire at the bottom also need to be desoldered

Without desoldeing these wires, the mirror box can not be separated from the main chassis, then you can't access the bottom part.
 

bigrizz

New Member
Nov 20, 2012
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Perth, Australia
#12
There are 4 wires (orange, blue, red and black) need to desolder (see 1st picture of post #7)
Then there's another black wire at the bottom also need to be desoldered

Without desoldeing these wires, the mirror box can not be separated from the main chassis, then you can't access the bottom part.
Thanks for getting back so quickly. It looks like I'll have to wait until I get my soldering iron. You've saved me the trouble of finding out the hard way. :thumbsup:
 

fatigue

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#14
Forgot to mention that the gear has to be placed at the right position.
There's a slit/window (can be seen at photo Nos. 28~31) to position the gear correctly.
Just align the arrow on gear and the arrow on the window.
Post some photos or questions in case you encounter any problem
Good luck.
 

#15
Wow, not an easy task you're performing. Obviously the problem is with the camera body, but just curious to know what lenses you mostly use on it. Always had contact problems with the Nikon 18-135mm lens.
 

fatigue

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#16
Wow, not an easy task you're performing. Obviously the problem is with the camera body, but just curious to know what lenses you mostly use on it. Always had contact problems with the Nikon 18-135mm lens.
Just get your nikon 18-135 mount replaced. Where you're looking at you lens from the mount, there's a small hole ( a.k.a lens locking indentation) located at 9 o'clock. The hole could be slightly bigger due to wear and tear. This will cause some play/slack when the lens is mounted on the camera. The slack will cause poor or no electrical connection between lens and camera connection pins.
The mount is sold online for about U$4
 

lenslust

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Apr 22, 2012
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#17
5700! My first digital compact. $1,888 from Harvey Norman, IIRC.
 

#19
Just get your nikon 18-135 mount replaced. Where you're looking at you lens from the mount, there's a small hole ( a.k.a lens locking indentation) located at 9 o'clock. The hole could be slightly bigger due to wear and tear. This will cause some play/slack when the lens is mounted on the camera. The slack will cause poor or no electrical connection between lens and camera connection pins.
The mount is sold online for about U$4
Thanks, had the lens mount replaced two times, but each time the problem returned after 2-3 days. Discovered it was the little connection pin (located right next to the locking hole). Opened it up and reversed the pin as the other side was a bit longer (maybe too long) but modified it a bit. Problem solved but after 2 weeks the aperture got stuck and the lens decided to join the party if you zoom past 50mm. :bsmilie: Just out of 1 year warranty the lens would also get stuck at 24mm sometimes. The problem fixed itself but then the D80's shutter gave up. :bsmilie: Still an awesome camera and worth the repairs.
 

Dec 18, 2012
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#20
Forgot to mention that the gear has to be placed at the right position.
Good luck.
Interesting that you just replaced the gear. I've ordered a complete replacement aperture control unit.(ebay item 321015594605)

Whilst this is a more expensive option that just replacing the gear, hopefully it will make for an easier repair :) Will post here once the part arrives (probably 2 weeks from the US to Australia) and on how I go.

I have bought a new D5100, but would like to fix the D80 for mainly interests sake.