Fix Your SB-600 Inspired by (David Hilos) Followed by (Jay Hidalgo)


#1
When it comes to technology, we all know that many things can cause a equipment to fail. When it comes to our beloved Nikon SB-600 there are common issues which result in about the same common problem.

If you haven't come across David Hilos instructions to fix you SB-600 with the symptoms of:

--NO CHARGING SOUND
--NO READY LIGHT
--OBVIOUSLY NO FLASH

Visit: http://www.clubsnap.com/forums/nikon/915050-fix-your-sb600-david-hilos.html

Please visit his instructions First before moving to this second or in other words, these Followed instructions if changing your Thermal fuse from David Hilos instructions still don't work.

There are about 4 common issues that can be accounted for. Some more rare than others which i will list.

-- For no Flash>>Broken Flash Bulb or busted FUSE (On Boost Circuit 'TAMURA N4F")
-- NO CHARGING SOUND but READY LIGHT comes on, it may likely be the Main Capacitor.
-- No READY LIGHT>> Busted Mentioned Fuse or Capacitor located on the (L-PCB) Location:"C-104" on the board.
-- No Power up After a sudden Drop>> Its a simple fix which is a Chip named (F100) Located on the (R-PCB) Location "L-301" on the board. For more info on No power up please visit the instructions of David Hilos on the second page of the post and scroll down till you see the comparison of a dropped on and the one that is working right next to it.

In my Case, I went for a photo shoot, and i pull out my Sb-600 and placed the batteries in and turned on the unit to test it. I always do this before any shoots. I noticed that the unit powers on or Boots up but no flash. The charging sound was weak, As if it wanted to charge fully to give me a ready light but couldn't. I then turn it off immediately and pulled the batteries out and noticed they were hot and smelled from burn from the battery compartment. I checked the contacts and they were spanking silver with no signs of burn. I figured right away it was from inside and called it a fried unit.

Now I will show you the Broken "C-104" and where to disassemble to find the (L-PCB)

First and most important remember to discharge your capacitor with at least a 2k ohms Resistor.

Remove these two screws

sb600fix--6 by jAY2790, on Flickr

Then These four screws

sb600fix--7 by jAY2790, on Flickr

Carefully remove the front plate, and remove these four screws. Carefully remove the cables attached, and carefully remove it from the LCD Panel (rear plate)

sb600fix--5 by jAY2790, on Flickr

Then remove these 3 screws, and carefully remove the Battery compartment from the PCB.Be sure not to snap those Black or red Battery cables.

Then look for "C-104" on the (L-PCB) which should be the bottom PCB and if that Capacitor is cracked or burned you will need to replace it. In my case it looked like this.

sb600fix- by jAY2790, on Flickr

The space is very small to take this capacitor off. Its your choice if you want to take that L-PCB off to work better but if your skilled at soldering it should come off with a capacitor soldering iron. The Part i used is a Kemet C2225C104KCRACTU 500volts 0.1uF 10% Capacitor.
You can use any capacitor as long as its a high voltage (500volts 0.1uF). In my case, the capacitor was a little over spec by being quite wide but it worked.
This is the Finishing Product.

sb600fix--3 by jAY2790, on Flickr

Thank you for Trying and Good luck!
 

jacobtc

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#2
Nice guide! I however have a different problem with my SB-600, it seems like the IGBT is burned out, as my flash always fires at full power, even when set to manual 1/64... Is this something you have fixed, or know of?
 

fatigue

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#3
Nice guide! I however have a different problem with my SB-600, it seems like the IGBT is burned out, as my flash always fires at full power, even when set to manual 1/64... Is this something you have fixed, or know of?
You may want to check the fiber optic connection first. It's the single cable that runs from the flash head to the main board.
 

fatigue

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#4
Nice guide! I however have a different problem with my SB-600, it seems like the IGBT is burned out, as my flash always fires at full power, even when set to manual 1/64... Is this something you have fixed, or know of?
If the fiber optic connection is ok, then it could be the IGBT. From the picture (by Jay Hidalgo) below, it's the part with CT40KM marking, located just beside the capacitor. Check the component with tester/multimeter before replacing.


sb600fix--3 by jAY2790, on Flickr

Sorry to hijack your thread Jay. I'm just sharing some info.
 

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jacobtc

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#5
If the fiber optic connection is ok, then it could be the IGBT. From the picture (by Jay Hidalgo) below, it's the part with CT40KM marking, located just beside the capacitor. Check the component with tester/multimeter before replacing.



Sorry to hijack your thread Jay. I'm just sharing some info.
How can I check if the optic cable is okay? Also what reading should I get from the IGBT? I do not have a multimeter atm, however I will when I get home soon :) Also fatigue, you also helped me and my brother in your D80 Err fix thread ;)
 

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fatigue

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#6
How can I check if the optic cable is okay? Also what reading should I get from the IGBT? I do not have a multimeter atm, however I will when I get home soon :) Also fatigue, you also helped me and my brother in your D80 Err fix thread ;)
Just do a visual check on the fiber optic. It has to sit properly on the flash head diffuser, it has to be connected properly on the main board, the fiber optice shouldn't have any physical damage, no sharp bents.

The IGBT is a like a combination of FET and bipolar transistor. The input is like a FET while the output is like a bipolar transistor.
Just check the output. It shouldn't be shorted. Anyway, if it's shorted, the flash will automatically keep on firing ( even without triggering) after a few secords.

If you're getting a multimeter just to check the IGBT, just replace the IGBT if you suspect it's faulty. The IGBT cost only about a dollar
 

jacobtc

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#7
Just do a visual check on the fiber optic. It has to sit properly on the flash head diffuser, it has to be connected properly on the main board, the fiber optice shouldn't have any physical damage, no sharp bents.

The IGBT is a like a combination of FET and bipolar transistor. The input is like a FET while the output is like a bipolar transistor.
Just check the output. It shouldn't be shorted. Anyway, if it's shorted, the flash will automatically keep on firing ( even without triggering) after a few secords.

If you're getting a multimeter just to check the IGBT, just replace the IGBT if you suspect it's faulty. The IGBT cost only about a dollar
So to check the optic cable properly, I'll have to disassemble the head as well? Also I do have a multimeter at home, however I am at the parents house until next month :)

EDIT: Also you said that the flash would keep on firing if the IGBT was defective, however my flash doesn't do this, so is this proof that the IGBT is okay?
 

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fatigue

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#8
So to check the optic cable properly, I'll have to disassemble the head as well?
Yes
EDIT: Also you said that the flash would keep on firing if the IGBT was defective, however my flash doesn't do this, so is this proof that the IGBT is okay?
Not really, it only means the IGBT's collector and emitter is not shorted
 

jacobtc

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#9
Yes


Not really, it only means the IGBT's collector and emitter is not shorted
Sorry for the late reply, I just got home and finally have everything needed to disassemble this thing. I checked the optical cable, and the only kink I found was this:

Would that be enough to cause any problems, and if so, is it even possible to replace it, with that big ball of glue holding it down, without destroying something else?
Also I looked at the IGBT, and it looked like this:
Looks like rust?
 

jacobtc

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#10
So, I replaced the IGBT, but it still fires full power :( Seems like the optical cable is broken, even though it didn't have any major kinks... Cant seem to find any optical cables around :(
 

fatigue

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#11
So, I replaced the IGBT, but it still fires full power :( Seems like the optical cable is broken, even though it didn't have any major kinks... Cant seem to find any optical cables around :(
There's a bent on the optical cable, This could be the root cause of the problem.

 

jacobtc

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#12
The bend looks worse on the picture, but is it even possible to fix? I can't find any optical cables for the SB600 on eBay :(

There's a bent on the optical cable, This could be the root cause of the problem.

 

jacobtc

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#13
Also, why is it that the flash fires a less intense shot when pointed upwards or to the side? It charges much faster, and underexposes the picture completely.
This happens when it is on the camera, however if I use it without the camera, it fires full power all the time...
 

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cquick

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#14
hows it going i cant find the part at that voltage raiting possible to use lower voltage raiting? 275, 50v? whats the number i should stay away from
 

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