Guys, this is my first few tries at taking close ups at flowers in my neighbourhood. For your kind comments pls. You may also want to gues what lens I used 
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First try at Flower close ups
- Thread starter yehosaphat
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i like 2 and 3. try rotating 2 counter-clockwise, might be more interesting for the (whatchacallthatpartoftheflower) to be pointing upwards
It's a little bit too much saturated. Isn't it ?
By the way, maybe use a flash, close the apperture to get more DOF.
Stephane
By the way, maybe use a flash, close the apperture to get more DOF.
Stephane
stougard said:
Oh... FYI, no PS works done on these photos, just some cropping and borders only. So cant really help it if it is too saturated... you mean I should desaturate it in PS?
And btw, what sort of setting do you pple use when taking close ups?
The above pics i used was mainly 1/200s f3-4
The above pics i used was mainly 1/200s f3-4
I mostly use F8 and above with Tamron 90mm..without flash
IMO - < F5.6 are not my choice for macro
I will try find a clean background for composition
IMO - < F5.6 are not my choice for macro
I will try find a clean background for composition
Thanks for your comments
Sorry newbie qn: Shouldn't you use bigger apertures (<f5.6) for macro so that your subject will be in focus while the background can be nicely blurred?
For example, if I use f8 or higher for pic 2 shot, does that mean the whole flower including the petals will be sharp in focus?
Sorry newbie qn: Shouldn't you use bigger apertures (<f5.6) for macro so that your subject will be in focus while the background can be nicely blurred?
For example, if I use f8 or higher for pic 2 shot, does that mean the whole flower including the petals will be sharp in focus?
yehosaphat said:
I think understanding depth of field (DOF) is very important in macro photography because DOF determines how much of the subject is in focus and appears sharp.
Play around with the calculator below and you will get a good understanding about the impact of focal length, aperture and distance to the subject on the DOF.
If you use very long focal length and shoot from a very short distance to get your subect to appear large in the frame in macro photography, your DOF is extremely narrow, especially if you use larger aperture (i.e. smaller F/ numbers) to allow more light.
Hopes the above help.
DOF calculator : http://www.nikonians.org/html/resources/guides/dof/hyperfocal2.html
Clockunder said:
Erm... so say for pic 2, should the petals be in focus or not. My aim is to only get the stigma in focus... is this way of thinking wrong for macro?
yehosaphat said:
Erm... so say for pic 2, should the petals be in focus or not. My aim is to only get the stigma in focus... is this way of thinking wrong for macro?
I think it the way how you compose...
in this case, your composition don't work.
yehosaphat said:
Erm... so say for pic 2, should the petals be in focus or not. My aim is to only get the stigma in focus... is this way of thinking wrong for macro?
There is no right or wrong. It's all about what you want to show.
As long as you like what you've shot and composed, then it's ok. However, always open up to alternate views and see the pictures taken by others to determine whether you actually like those better.
yehosaphat said:
Clockunder said:
I agree...
if your aim is to show stigma,
I believe there are many ways or angles to shoot the stigma..
In my personal opinion, in picture 2, its composition looks perfectly fine to me (how much and where the flower and stigma appear inhttp://forums.clubsnap.org/editpost.php?do=editpost&p=2093027 the fame and the red/green balance of the whole picture).
In picture 2, only the tip of the stigma is in focus due to the extreme shallow depth of field. Probably more than 95% of the picture is out of focus while less than 5% is in focus. It may not work with many people. You may want to experiment with various focal lengths, shooting distance and aperture size to have different DOF captured and see which one you like better.
An altenative would be to have at least the pollent grains to be in focus as well as the tip of the stigma, if not the whole stigma.
If you shoot from the angle you've done, having the whole flower to be in focus and still having a blur background is extremely difficult, if not impossible. An altenative is to shoot from the side if you want to have the flower as well as its whole stigma to be in focus.
Due to the shallow DOF in macro, we often have to think carefully about the DOF we want to achieve and then decide on not only on the focal length, shooting distance and aperture size but also the angle from which we should shoot it from in order to have the things we want to be in focus to appear in focus in the picture.
In picture 2, only the tip of the stigma is in focus due to the extreme shallow depth of field. Probably more than 95% of the picture is out of focus while less than 5% is in focus. It may not work with many people. You may want to experiment with various focal lengths, shooting distance and aperture size to have different DOF captured and see which one you like better.
An altenative would be to have at least the pollent grains to be in focus as well as the tip of the stigma, if not the whole stigma.
If you shoot from the angle you've done, having the whole flower to be in focus and still having a blur background is extremely difficult, if not impossible. An altenative is to shoot from the side if you want to have the flower as well as its whole stigma to be in focus.
Due to the shallow DOF in macro, we often have to think carefully about the DOF we want to achieve and then decide on not only on the focal length, shooting distance and aperture size but also the angle from which we should shoot it from in order to have the things we want to be in focus to appear in focus in the picture.
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