FE light won't come on, shutter release stuck


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blackcountryrock

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Oct 14, 2009
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I didn't want to hijack this other thread (http://www.clubsnap.com/forums/showthread.php?p=5514960#post5514960), but I have a similar problem. I bought one FE several weeks ago and the battery light indicator will not turn on (yes, with the lever depressed) even with fresh batteries. My understanding was that the FE should work at M90 even without batteries, but even at this setting the shutter release button is jammed. It goes down only about halfway.

Then more recently I got another FE and it has essentially the same problem. With fresh batteries in, the light will not go on. And this time the shutter release button will not go down even halfway. It's perfectly stuck at the up position. I can advance the film lever and with the shutter speed at M90, I can trip it using the motor drive button. At other speeds, the mirror gets stuck and then I have to turn it to M90 for it to release.

Is it possible for me to fix it? Sending them in for repair does not seem like an economical option. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks!
 

catchlights

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you mean the film advance level is a position of flushing with the camera body? try pull the level out a little and leave it in this position.

 

diediealsomustdive

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The old style Nikon-Nikkormat shutter lock is with the winding lever, with it flushed at the camera body the shutter is locked. With the lever pull to the stand-off position, the shutter is unlocked Take care not to put tension on the winding lever - it jams the shutter as well. Just let it go to the stand-off position than the shutter is unlocked. With motor drive on you will have to flush the winding lever and use only the motor drive shutter release, IIRC (my experience with with FE2, MD-11 and MD-12).

If with fresh new batteries there is no light the camera needs to be fixed, either power not delivered to the FPB (flexible printed circuti board) or the circuit is screwed. In all cases M90 should work, or the shutter mechanism is screwed.
 

fatigue

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The old style Nikon-Nikkormat shutter lock is with the winding lever, with it flushed at the camera body the shutter is locked. With the lever pull to the stand-off position, the shutter is unlocked Take care not to put tension on the winding lever - it jams the shutter as well. Just let it go to the stand-off position than the shutter is unlocked. With motor drive on you will have to flush the winding lever and use only the motor drive shutter release, IIRC (my experience with with FE2, MD-11 and MD-12).

If with fresh new batteries there is no light the camera needs to be fixed, either power not delivered to the FPB (flexible printed circuti board) or the circuit is screwed. In all cases M90 should work, or the shutter mechanism is screwed.
I Agree

Sending them in for repair does not seem like an economical option.
Not always true
 

blackcountryrock

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wow, you guys nailed it! the shutter button 'jam' was in fact because the lever release was not pulled out to the correct position. you would not believe how long i spent trying to fix that problem and all i had to do was stop pushing the lever flush with the body!

as for the electrical problems, i finally pulled out the volt meter thing and it turns out that one of the brand new batteries (energizer) i got from the supermarket has zero voltage.

i'm guessing my problems are all solved, and i was starting to think that nikon made really bad products :)
 

diediealsomustdive

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wow, you guys nailed it! the shutter button 'jam' was in fact because the lever release was not pulled out to the correct position. you would not believe how long i spent trying to fix that problem and all i had to do was stop pushing the lever flush with the body!

as for the electrical problems, i finally pulled out the volt meter thing and it turns out that one of the brand new batteries (energizer) i got from the supermarket has zero voltage.

i'm guessing my problems are all solved, and i was starting to think that nikon made really bad products :)
A cup of kopi-o would be nice... ;)

Oh when you are using the camera, whenever you are not shooting please push the lever to flush with the body, as the FE's meter stays on as long as the lever is out, and that will drain the batteries. After a while you will develop the instinct to pull the lever out whenever you're getting ready to shot.

Enjoy your FE. That was my dream camera but could not afford, until later and I bought the FE2.
 

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fatigue

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A cup of kopi-o would be nice... ;)

Oh when you are using the camera, whenever you are not shooting please push the lever to flush with the body, as the FE's meter stays on as long as the lever is out, and that will drain the batteries. After a while you will develop the instinct to pull the lever out whenever you're getting ready to shot.

Enjoy your FE. That was my dream camera but could not afford, until later and I bought the FE2.
Can I join your kopi-o? :)

In addition, turn OFF the motordrive when you're not shooting. Camera's metering will turn ON once motordrive is connected and in switched ON mode
 

diediealsomustdive

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Can I join your kopi-o? :)

In addition, turn OFF the motordrive when you're not shooting. Camera's metering will turn ON once motordrive is connected and in switched ON mode
Anytime, brother Fatigue, anytime. Kopi-o on me.

MD-11 will keep the meter on, not sure about MD-12. I know MD-12 on FE2 can be left on all the time. With FE2 the lever can be left out all the time. FE cannot.
 

fatigue

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Anytime, brother Fatigue, anytime. Kopi-o on me.

MD-11 will keep the meter on, not sure about MD-12. I know MD-12 on FE2 can be left on all the time. With FE2 the lever can be left out all the time. FE cannot.

Yes, MD-11 will keep the meter ON while MD-12 will turn OFF the meter after around 50seconds.
But if there's something pluged-in the remote control socket, the MD-12 will behave as MD-11.
(Someone post a procedure how to solve this)

One good thing about using a motordrive is that the switch spring inside the camera will not get damaged easily.
 

lsisaxon

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A cup of kopi-o would be nice... ;)

Oh when you are using the camera, whenever you are not shooting please push the lever to flush with the body, as the FE's meter stays on as long as the lever is out, and that will drain the batteries. After a while you will develop the instinct to pull the lever out whenever you're getting ready to shot.

Enjoy your FE. That was my dream camera but could not afford, until later and I bought the FE2.
The FE2 is a whole lot better.. I'm dreaming about the FM3A... ;p but that came at a time when I was already transiting into digital. I hardly touch film anymore..
 

lsisaxon

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wow, you guys nailed it! the shutter button 'jam' was in fact because the lever release was not pulled out to the correct position. you would not believe how long i spent trying to fix that problem and all i had to do was stop pushing the lever flush with the body!

as for the electrical problems, i finally pulled out the volt meter thing and it turns out that one of the brand new batteries (energizer) i got from the supermarket has zero voltage.

i'm guessing my problems are all solved, and i was starting to think that nikon made really bad products :)
When my dad finally bought his FE, he tried several cameras at the shop and they jammed even before he started using them. It's Nikon all the way for him. I only started after he got the FM2 and F3 to replace the FE, so it's basically Nikon all the way for me also.
 

diediealsomustdive

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Wah so OT liao...

I started wth FE2, and in the early years had 2 copies of FM passed through my hands as backup bodies. Then came the inevitable move to AF, with F-801, and a succession of F-801s, F-601, FG, F-70 (2 copies). In between film and digital I had a Canon G2. Then D70, S2Pro, D300 and D60. Still using S2Pro for underwater, D300 for more serious shooting, and D60 for casual shooting. Camera bought for collection, used sparingly include Nikon F Photomic FTn, Nikomat FT2, Nikon EL2.

Reliability? Over 25 years. My first F-801 had focus issue, front focus IIRC. One AF prime lens focusing ring stuck just like that, no dropping. One SB-24 and FG had to replace FPB. One D70 frooze, repaired, then died (sensor dead). Have used over 30 Nikkors, over 15 Nikon and Nikkormats, 2 MD, 5 speedlights. I think it is not bad.

But I did thought about going to Canon 300D when D70 wasn't in sight.... what heresy... :sweat:
 

Ansel

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Wah so OT liao...

......But I did thought about going to Canon 300D when D70 wasn't in sight.... what heresy... :sweat:
Since TS already fixed his FE problem, then I guess it may be ok to OT. :p


Anyway, I have been a diehard Nikon user too(with arsenal of FM2, F2, F801, Nikkormat, etc still in the dry box), and have thought of going to 300D too when the D100 was too expensive for me. Luckily the D70 came, and I was one of first few in Sg to grap a set. ;)
 

diediealsomustdive

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Since TS already fixed his FE problem, then I guess it may be ok to OT. :p


Anyway, I have been a diehard Nikon user too(with arsenal of FM2, F2, F801, Nikkormat, etc still in the dry box), and have thought of going to 300D too when the D100 was too expensive for me. Luckily the D70 came, and I was one of first few in Sg to grap a set. ;)
Almost ditto, I took one from the second shipment.
 

lsisaxon

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Almost ditto, I took one from the second shipment.
My dad got the D100, I didn't quite like it. Then later I got my company to buy the D70 and subsequently a colleague bought the D70 too. I myself bought the D70s, simply love it, the image were much better than those from D100.

My dad subsequently sold the D100 for D200 and then sold the D200 for D300 which I'm using now.
 

diediealsomustdive

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My dad got the D100, I didn't quite like it. Then later I got my company to buy the D70 and subsequently a colleague bought the D70 too. I myself bought the D70s, simply love it, the image were much better than those from D100.

My dad subsequently sold the D100 for D200 and then sold the D200 for D300 which I'm using now.
D100 was simply too ex, D70 was just within the pain threshold. For that reason D700 hasn't gotten onto my list yet. I have to wait till the FX price drop to ~$2k-2.5k then I will jump onto the bandwagon.
 

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