Exposure doubts
- Thread starter rysouke
- Start date
Your pictures have more sky, that can throw things out a little.
If you use center-weighted on that day, things would have been better.
If the sun is nice and bright, don't use ISO 200; if you notice I was using ISO 80.
The weather (lighting) was in my favour.
I think I kinda made myself clear with the parts in bold.
Matrix metering did become more accurate for me when I upgraded from the D40 to D200 anyways.
Learn
the
basics
of
light
and
exposure.
Then
learn
HDR
and
how
to
produce
lovely
radio
active
works!
the
basics
of
light
and
exposure.
Then
learn
HDR
and
how
to
produce
lovely
radio
active
works!
Need to understand the basic of exposure,or else the more you ask the more you get confuse.
Need to understand also the different between the CPL and ND filter, not just any how put them on just because you want a better picture without knowing why.
Our eyes have a better dynamic range and can see 12 stops of light, for camera it sees only 5 stops. The timing of when you take the picture is important. On a nice day where the blue sky , mountain and tree falls within the 5 stops of the camera dynamic range, using the matrix mode is ok and picture come out perfect. Don't just simple follow because people taken a better photo with this mode. The time when you took the photo may not be a good time, because when you took the mid tone of the tree and end up the sky is over exposed, either you go back to take the photo again on a different time or use the spot metering mode to find out how many stops the sky is over exposed and compensate that with the appropriate ND filter (not CPL !!!), or if you do not have the ND filter then try shooting with HDR with one with good details on the sky, one with good details on the tree etc and combine them together with the Photoshop. In your case, ND filter is not good to use as it is not a horizontal split.
Check to see whether you have a D-light compensate turns on, and also need to improve your PP skill.
I did this with your jpeg, RAW will provide a better result.
Last edited:
Got my slides processed today
Here's something for comparison:
1) shot around 3-4pm
2) Sunny 16 condition
3) Spot meter the sky
4) Slide film (i.e. similar dynamic range to digital)
5) No adjustments except for levels
Here's something for comparison:
1) shot around 3-4pm
2) Sunny 16 condition
3) Spot meter the sky
4) Slide film (i.e. similar dynamic range to digital)
5) No adjustments except for levels
Got my slides processed today
Here's something for comparison:
1) shot around 3-4pm
2) Sunny 16 condition
3) Spot meter the sky
4) Slide film (i.e. similar dynamic range to digital)
5) No adjustments except for levels
not bad except that the trees are slightly under expose. All details are there. Are you applying Sunny 16 rule while spot metering at the sky ?
I was quite sure of the exposure actually. Spot meter the sky to confirm. I got ISO 100, f/8, 1/500s which matched my guess.
Personally I think the trees are fine. The one you post processed looks 'radioactive green' to me. It might just be the calibration of my monitor though :dunno:
Edit: Looking at this again, my color looks a bit off also. The vegetation has a slight blue cast which is probably from the sky.
Last edited:
Nothing wrong with your screen, when I open up the same thread in a different monitor, I realised this problem. My monitor was set to lowest brightness setting.
:bsmilie:
I got the same habit. Use the computer in the dark and drop the brightness...
http://www.digitalpicturezone.com/digital-photography-tips-and-tricks/sunny-16-rule-in-photography/
The equivalencies for 1/125th @ f/16 (ISO 100) are:
1/30th @ f/32
1/60th @ f/22
1/125th @ f/16 <--- Sunny f16 on sunny day.
1/250th @ f/11
1/500th @ f/8
1/1000th @ f/5.6
1/2000th @ f4
Kaixiang increases the shutter speed from 1/125 to 1/500 (2 stops),therefore aperture f/16 to f/8.
want more explanation, google "sunny 16 rule" to see how to apply on cloudy day also.
Another tip is that, the key to using this is to look at the shadows and not the sky. If the shadows are sharp and distinct, Sunny 16 works. If the shadows have a fuzzy edge, open up the exposure by 1 stop. If there are no shadows, open up another 1-2 stops. I didn't get the Sunny vs. Cloudy thing when I first started out and looked up at the sky to gauge exposure :bsmilie:
The shadow on the ground. Your own shadow, trees, buildings etc.
You don't use the sky to gauge exposure because the cloud cover doesn't tell you much. For example, on the day I took the photo, it was both 'Sunny' but with clouds in the sky at the same time. I used ISO 100, f/8, 1/500s because the Sun was out.
2 minutes later, the cloud actually covered the clouds, changing the condition to 'cloudy' although the sky looked almost exactly the same. If I were to take the same photo at that time, I would have to use ISO 100, f/8, 1/250s instead or else the photo would be underexposed. I know the difference because the shadows on the ground are not sharp and distinct any more and beginning to look fuzzy or soft around the edges.
This is a good link to read: http://www.fredparker.com/ultexp1.htm
You don't use the sky to gauge exposure because the cloud cover doesn't tell you much. For example, on the day I took the photo, it was both 'Sunny' but with clouds in the sky at the same time. I used ISO 100, f/8, 1/500s because the Sun was out.
2 minutes later, the cloud actually covered the clouds, changing the condition to 'cloudy' although the sky looked almost exactly the same. If I were to take the same photo at that time, I would have to use ISO 100, f/8, 1/250s instead or else the photo would be underexposed. I know the difference because the shadows on the ground are not sharp and distinct any more and beginning to look fuzzy or soft around the edges.
This is a good link to read: http://www.fredparker.com/ultexp1.htm
Try to use manual mode & play around with spot, centre & matrix metering on the same picture. U should have a better understanding of exposure by then.
Spot metering is good when your concern is solely on a specific subject exposure.
Matrix is the average of exposure on a picture which might not be what you want sometimes so one need to play around with the setting in the camera.
Correct me if I am wrong. I am just a hobbyist.
Spot metering is good when your concern is solely on a specific subject exposure.
Matrix is the average of exposure on a picture which might not be what you want sometimes so one need to play around with the setting in the camera.
Correct me if I am wrong. I am just a hobbyist.
So you know that the cloud is covered the cloud because you look at the shadow of your own and the ground and trees as it is not obvious anymore..am i right to say that?
