E-300 maiden pics


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chancy

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Dec 16, 2003
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serene said:
Chancy and everyone
The only problem I have is that when the sky is very bright, there tends to be an overexposure on the foreground. Can someone tell me how I can meter this correctly. Thanks in advance :D
Hello Serene,

I noticed that the your latest scenes (interior Bugis Junction) are metered brighter.

While the sensor in Olympus E series of cameras have greater dynamic range (exposure latitude) than most by capturing & retaining a greater range of light & dark values in any scene, actual lighting conditions do frequently exceed the exposure gathering limits of the camera.

As humans, we do not observe this phenomenon as our eyes quickly adjust & adapt to ambient lighting conditions far better than camera sensors. We frequently hear of analogy of existing sensors behaviour to that of transparencies / slides which exhibit low exposure latitude.

Particularly for scenes where indoor & outdoor elements are present, the great difference between the the brightest & darkness values require the photographer to choose / bias (meter) for the key subject & 'sacrifice' detail in either the brigher values or the darker values.

Generally, spot or centre-weighted metering is used because you have an idea of where & how the meter is exposing for & be able to predictably bracket your shots accordingly to get the the 'look' you seek.

I'm guessing that your E300 meter tried to compensate for the interior (dimmer) light level by increasing exposure, but over did it. This over-exposed the exterior details (Swissotel) somewhat, but retained key interior information. But the photos are slightly overexposed, a subjective half-stop or full stop reduction is exposure compensation (read up) may be needed to put the scene 'right'.

Workarounds exists, the easiest is to wait for a time of day when interior & exterior light level difference are at their lowest (morning or evening), or when interior is much smaller, using flash to bring light level differenes closer. And finally for the landscape photographer, graduated neutral density filters. All these approaches aim to reduce the lighting range of a scene to match that of the camera sensor / film as much as possible so that all information is captured & none sacrificed. You may wish to shoot in RAW.

I know Photoshop is available as a post processing fix, but the initial image should contain max info for most options for manipulation.

In short, if in doubt, bracket your shots generously in RAW :)

Cheers,
 

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