Drop of Ice.
- Thread starter haqeel
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used shutter speed of between 1/2000 to 1/3200 at f4 with ISO 100.
placed my 42am flash mounted on a DIY softbox at power 1/8th, on the right with an aluminium foil on the left to act as a fill for the left. took me about 20-30 shots to get one.
for the first one, i merged two photos together to add in the "halfway dropped ice" in the photo.
Cheers!
used shutter speed of between 1/2000 to 1/3200 at f4 with ISO 100.
placed my 42am flash mounted on a DIY softbox at power 1/8th, on the right with an aluminium foil on the left to act as a fill for the left. took me about 20-30 shots to get one.
for the first one, i merged two photos together to add in the "halfway dropped ice" in the photo.
Cheers!
wa. the flash enuff power ? wads the guide for the flash btw?
GN 42. By opening your aperture wide, you'll be able to freeze it. I used 1/8th at f4 with iso 100.
Cheers!
I'm curious about the use of high speed sync. 1/200, f/4, iso100 should be enough to kill ambient lighting indoors right? In that case, how does pushing the shutter speed to 1/2000-3000 help?
Yeap. Its use to help freeze those really fast motion like, for my case the drop of ice.
Also, if you want to create bokehs using small aperture for example f2.8, sure by using flash you'll overexpose the photo. So HSS comes to the rescue.
Yeap. Its use to help freeze those really fast motion like, for my case the drop of ice.
Also, if you want to create bokehs using small aperture for example f2.8, sure by using flash you'll overexpose the photo. So HSS comes to the rescue.
but must remember also tat the plane of focus using f2.8 is gonna be very small. makes it harder to shoot a sharp image.
Yeap. Its use to help freeze those really fast motion like, for my case the drop of ice.
Also, if you want to create bokehs using small aperture for example f2.8, sure by using flash you'll overexpose the photo. So HSS comes to the rescue.
At the point where ambient lighting is not affecting the exposure any more, decreasing shutter speed does not affect the length of the exposure. The length of the exposure will be determined by the flash output.
i.e. 1/8 power @ 1/200s will freeze action better than 1/1 at 1/500s.
Basically HSS is mainly useful outdoors, where you can use something like f/4, ISO 100, 1/3200 to drop the exposure of the background 1 stop below the subject. Indoors, there is not enough light to make a difference between 1/200 and 1/2000 since any light comes from the flash which is instantaneous.
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Basically, the only light that is causing any exposure is coming from the flash. Flash duration is something like 1/1000 and can be considered instantaneous.
Think about this without the flash first. Once you get a a base exposure where ambient lighting is not contributing to the actual photo any more, decreasing shutter speed doesn't matter. Basically if you take a photo which gets you a fully black frame at 1/200s for example, when you drop shutter speed to 1/500, 1/1000 or 1/2000 you will still get a black frame.
When you add flash in, the amount of 'motion' captured depends how long your flash on. Assuming the flash stays on for 1/1000s, what your film/sensor captures = the 1/1000s where there is enough light. The other part of the duration when the shutter stays open doesn't matter because there is not enough light to be captured by the sensor at, for example: iso100 and f/4 indoors. When you drop the flash output/power, the flash duration shortens to maybe 1/10,000 for really low power.
This applies for 'normal' indoor lighting at night. If you do this in the day or your place happens to be super bright, 1/200s might not be enough to block out all the ambient light and anything captured by the sensor will result in motion blur.
im actually kind of confused. cos actually ive just started flash photog a few months ago so im kind of noob here :sweat:
but from what i know im doing is that i used 1/3200 to stop the motion of the splashes of water so that im 100% sure the water is freezed. cos when used at 1/160 which my camera can go at max for flash, theres still some motion blur.
Cheers!
im actually kind of confused. cos actually ive just started flash photog a few months ago so im kind of noob here :sweat:
but from what i know im doing is that i used 1/3200 to stop the motion of the splashes of water so that im 100% sure the water is freezed. cos when used at 1/160 which my camera can go at max for flash, theres still some motion blur.
Cheers!
The place you're doing this must be quite bright then
Forgot to mention: pretty cool for a few months of experience :thumbsup:
The place you're doing this must be quite bright then
Forgot to mention: pretty cool for a few months of experience :thumbsup:
yeap, i was near the window and was a bright day. thanks!
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